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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
SO....I did a 5.8 swap into my 94 tried to fire it the other day and no go....
wasnt getting fuel...did some research around here and pulled codes, bad map
disconected it and viola!

so now my problem is i have a stumble/ miss at all speeds almost like a surge. also when i just crack the throttle it almost stalls? my cm code and only code is 212 i have an aftermarket gray tfi module, fuel pressure is good new map plugs wires cap rotor and coil, checked the tps and checked good checked the base timing with spout out and was steady at 11* after reinstalling spout i did notice that when i throttled the engine the timing would jump all over the place instead of a steady advance. had tfi tested at parts store and passed.
i checked for vaccum leaks everywhere, and i changed every vaccum hose before installing engine, the computer for the swap is from a 94 f250 that i got the zf5 from also ive got the engine to run off my 5.0 computer. both computers act the same and throw the same code

ive searched every possible thread on here
I need some help boys

I scrape on both sides
3,035 Posts
212:Loss of IDM input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded
Oddly enough, the "Start" pin on the
"Push Start" module is the same pin as
t h e I D M p i n o n t h e " C C D " m o d u l e .
W h i l e t h e c o n n e c t o r s a r e i d e n t i c a l ,
interchanging the modules may or may
not create a driveability problem , while
tripping a fault code of #18, or # 212
( I D M c o d e ) . T h e s e a r e p r o b l e m s
consistent with interchanging one type
module in place of the other.
I d e n t i f y i n g t h e c o r r e c t mo d u l e f o r
your vehicle can be accomplished in a
number of ways. First, always refer to
the cor r e c t appl i c a t ion in the Engine
Management catalog. If that information
is not available, check the wiring of the
vehicle. If pin # 4 of the module gets a
s t a r t s igna l (whi ch should be ba t t e ry
voltage) from the starter circuit, it's a
"Push Start" system. On the other hand,
if pin #4 of the module is wired directly
to pin #4 of the ECM, then it's a CCD
system (refer to diagram #5).


Code 212 = Loss of IDM (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded....
1. Check for the short to ground possibility in the SPOUT wire (to ECM side and to ICM side) as suggested above.

2. IDM wire from Ignition Control Module (ICM) to ECM integrity (open, short to ground or power).

3. ICM was already replaced

4. If all the above checks OK......the ECM will be the one to blame.


sounds like your ECM might not be right for your engine

4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
update and a bump

so for an update i replaced my icm with a black one and the 212 code went away....but the stumble hasnt
so drove it aroud awhile and pulled codes nothing
all 1s KOEO 111 CM 111 KOER 111
this is what ive done so far
fuel pressure steady running a 32psi...
with vacuum hose disconected it jumps to 40psi from my haynes manuel this is good.
timing set at 11* with spout out
all plugs and wires good
tested coil primary and secondary resistance good
tested coil supply voltage good
tested pip output voltage good
tested coil tach wire to icm plug wire 2 good
set engine to #1 cylinder tdc and pulled cap to verify at # 1 and it was pulled dizzy and checked for gear wear and play or bent shaft...all were good
double checked all vacuum lines with propane and small hose with no change of engine speed.
I connected my vac gauge to the manifold tree and i get 17in steady at idle except when it stumbles i lose from 1 to 2 in but its not on time every time this stumble or miss or hesitation isnt like a drum beat its moves. its always there but with no rhythm.
on a whim i connected my timing light to the coil output wire. with the miss i get a black out spot in the flashes?:banghead
i also tested the tps and it was good
tested the egr valve and was good
checked for vacuum at egr valve at idle and there was none
made sure egr valve could move freely and does
ohmed injector wires and they passed
cleaned iac and when i disconnect it the engine idle drops about 200 rpm so from my searches i would say its good besides the hesitation is at all speeds
i check the O2 sensor per my haynes and is good not to mention new.
my multimeter doesnt have fequency so it tested the map by disconnecting it but the stumble was still there.
i dropped the exhaust to check for restrictions and nothing same ish!
I hade a set of explorer injectors and thanks to ryan rebuilt them tested them and replaced my old ones.
ive plugged both pcms i have and am having same problem with both.
my guess from the vacuum readings is that my engine health is okay. Also the old girl gets up and goes on the high way. with my 5.0 i always had to down shift to pass cars and now i just step on it..thats nice But this stummble i feel at idle at a light and hessitation when i barly step on the throttle is going to be my end.
once again gentlemen i need your help...I know...I know use search........thats why i havent written in so long, its all ive been doing everyday.:whiteflag:banghead

I scrape on both sides
3,035 Posts
well, im gonna go with pcm at this point, maybe try throwing the pcm that was meant for your engine in and it could run better...

when driving do you notice any loss of power? apart from when it stumbles
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