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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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16,433 Posts
Years ago, when rebuilding my motor, I eliminated the smog equipment, including the EGR. My EGR was shot and the tube was rusted, so I went this route. Used a similar gadget and an egr block off plate..It works, but I will say if you have a properly functioning EGR it won't have any negative impact on engine in fact it can actually help lower combustion temps..
 

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2014 Ford Explorer Sport
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1,933 Posts
The later model OBS trucks tend to throw an EGR code when using those eliminators. The computer is looking for a change in EGR position feedback when it has commanded the EGR to open. Also be aware if you have a 1995 model year Bronco w/5.8L engine and MAF the EGR feedback is no longer position based it is actual EGR gas flow (DPFE).

If you are having an issue with EGR codes just fix the root cause. It's not rocket science.
 
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Premium Member
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 mostly stock
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1,717 Posts
The air pump had been removed on my 86 when i got it, and the EGR tube was cracked (mine is a PITA as it goes under the intake). I live in an area that the emissions are not tested so I didn't spend any money on them. However, when i overhauled my engine I properly removed all the thermactor tubes, pluged the heads, and removed the air pump bracket. I did leave all the TAB TAD solenoids in place and I also left the EGR valve on my intake, but I capped it off at the bottom where the EGR tube would have gone, this way its still "hooked up" as far as the computer knows but it doesn't do anything of course. I had read mixed reviews on that do-dad you listed so I just decided to do this for now. Later I may remove the TAB TAD stuff along with this but for now Its running good with no codes.

I said all that to say this, if your Emissions system is working, just leave it. If you are looking for some more power, you would get more by adding an electric fan than by deleting all that stuff.
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 311K miles
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1,646 Posts
The EGR system does not Function under load or full throttle conditions it only Functions under light load and cruising conditions so all this "Trouble/Work" to remove something that doesn't affect anything when it is "Operating Correctly" and a bonus is it helps in the MPG department slightly some how. Believe it or Not!
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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1,400 Posts
I have one of those "EGR eliminator kit" plugs sitting somewhere in my garage collecting dust. I went down this rabbit hole a bit... I bought the EGR eliminator kit thinking it would help, but it did nothing for me when I plugged it in & I still had the code i was trying to eliminate. In hindsight, it was basicly like putting a valve stem cap on your tire, thinking it would make your car faster... 🤣


With @miesk5 guidance, I looked into my emissions/EGR system more cuz i really didnt understand it at all. My smog pump is removed, heads plugged, & i have full length headers, so really no emissions equipment at all, but my EGR system was all there. I found out the code i had was caused from my EGR solenoids being corroded so bad that there wasnt much left of them. The vacuum lines to the solenoids were capped off, so there was no vacuum going to my EGR when commanded to do so by the computer, so that was what caused my code.

I then replaced the EGR solenoid which was only $28 on ebay, I hooked up new vacuum lines to it and got my EGR working properly and the difference was very noticeable on my first drive at cruising speed. Much smoother power delivery at normal cruising speeds & I consistenly saw a 1-2mpg increase in fuel economy over anything I previously had with this Bronco, so I can say the truck ran noticeably better with it all working correctly.
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So I am in the camp that says to get it functioning properly.

Like RobbZ28 said, an electric fan will do more for you, but even that wouldn't be a noticeable power difference by the seat of the pants. If you want fast, buy a 3000lb sports car, cuz trying to make a big heavy 5000+lb Bronco fast is not a battle you will win unless you spend an awful lot of money. A good exhaust system, to make it flow & sound better is about all you need. Enjoy it for what it is, and don't try to make it what it's not.
 

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1988 FSB, 351W, Towing Package
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135 Posts
I did the delete when I put headers on because my tube was damaged and the mounting portion on the old manifold was so corroded together I couldn’t really get it off to re-use. I didn’t really notice much a difference at all; but wouldn’t be surprised at all about the increased mpg without it. After all, all it’s doing is recirculating some exhaust so there’s potential for that to be more fuel efficient. The only difference I had (I believe) is increased crankcase pressure, the tube going into the back of my valve cover blew off due to pressure at one point lol. Correct me if I’m wrong tho and that was something else!

Edit: that being said, I do like the delete. It’s a little simpler and less stuff to “break”. Idk, I’m a simple guy. And I like how the engine looks with it deleted

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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'94 Bronco EB 4x4, 5.8L, E4OD, rusty fuel tank, electrical ghosts
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52 Posts
I found that my favorite positive coming out of the smog delete I did was just the amount of room that you gain by removing all that stuff. Other than that the whole codes deal can be tricky and you can fry some fuses/ short some circuits if you use the wrong resistors to fill the open plugs where the sensors should've been.
 

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Premium Member
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 mostly stock
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1,717 Posts
A little off subject, but I'd be interested to see what a "modernized" 5.0 or 5.8 liter, with a modern aftermarket EFI, ability to properly run modern blended gasoline, air tubeless cats performance would be on a sniffer test vs a functioning original engine. And not a TBI unit, but a sequential fire MPFI like edelbrock pro-flo. The old batch fire units had more unburnt fuel escaping into the exhaust that the EGR would help capture and burn. That feature may not be as critical on a sequential fire EFI.
 
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