On a EEC-IV-equipped Ford, removing a
properly functioning EGR does NOTHING to increase performance; it can make things a bit worse, in fact. Hell, it's not even used at all @ WOT or idle. You shouldn't be able to tell the difference if everything's working like it's supposed to. The only time they really were worth disabling was when they were controlled by carburetor vacuum signals, and you know how accurate a carburetor is at stoichiometric ratios under all operating conditions.
One more point worth mentioning. EGR is used because the exhaust is considered an inert gas. Introducing a small amount of inert gas to the combustion chamber, during the intake cycle, will reduce the peak temperature of the combustion process. Typically, the magic number is 2000°F, which is the temperature at which burning the atmosphere will create nitrogen oxides. EGR reduces or eliminates most of the nitrogen oxides (also called NoX or noxious gases), and reduces ground-level pollution. So it's a free lunch: a cooler running engine with less air pollution!
As far as your code 33, look at the EVP sensor. If it's the original, I'd replace it simply because they're cheap and it's a 'known Ford problem,' for lack of a better term. Also, check your vacuum lines, from the manifold to the EVR, then to the EGR valve itself. Use a vacuum pump, or just your mouth and a wet thumb; you should be able to tell whether you're leaking through those lines. If those are all checking out okay, see if the EGR valve is holding vacuum. The last possibilities are faulty wiring/harness/connectors, and the EVR.
