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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like the title says - which circuit in the fuse block would y'all recommend that I tap into for the 12V that the choke wants? Half of the ones there are key-on power, but which one do I pick? Don't think the accessory is a good idea, so what else works with the IGN but not on the ACCY positions of the ignition switch?
 

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The stock choke wires to the stator output on the alternator, it's only about 7 volts. If you wire 12 volts to the choke you'll burn it up. Aftermarket chokes can hook to any switched 12V circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's a 1403 carburetor, it wants 12V, that's why the stock wiring won't work. I'll see which one is easies to access in the fuse panel and tap into that.
 

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Salt-Man
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all that I did when I installed my edelbrock carburetor #1406 with electric choke
was I used a meter and found a wire in the engine compartment that was
energized by the key and had 12volts.
but if you are running a new wire to it you should be able to find a extra
connection at the fuse panel or tie into something like the radio fuse or something similar
as long as it is 12v and comes on with the key I wouldn't think it would matter?
that choke is not going to be pulling alot of amps or anything
you just do not want constant power to it
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Aight, I tied it into the B/U (backup lights?) cicruit - that one is key-on 12V power, so it should be good. I already had the hole for the speedo cable which I also used to run the line for the vacuum gauge and the wire for the fog lights, so I just ran the choke wire through there too and added wire loom to prevent the wires from getting cut. The cool thing was that the fused side of the B/U circuit had no wire attached to it at all (dunno why, that's how it was, open circuit), so all I had to do was crimp a ring terminal to the choke wire and literally bolt it to the terminal in the fuse block, a small self-tapping sheetmetal screw worked great for that.

Larston, on my '78 the wiper motor is inside the cab, so your trick wouldn't work for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well actually it wasn't fixing, more like upgrading - carb came with the electric choke, but I already had the manual from the old one routed and trimmed, so I ran the manual one for a week to give me some time to tune the carb, and now that it's working good I could go electric like tis supposed to be. It works good too, takes it about 4-5 minutes to open all the way, which is just as long as it takes the engine to warm up too, so I'm pretty happy with it now.
 

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Salt-Man
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What I meant was you don't want constant power to it at all times.
you only want it to energize the choke when the key is on
 

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Salt-Man
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Thats Tonto to you Kimoslobby !

Hey Lone Ranger when do you get you Bronk Silver back ?

When you get in it and drive it for the first time are you going to scream

" Hi Ho Silver Away! "
 

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Thats Tonto to you Kimoslobby !

Hey Lone Ranger when do you get you Bronk Silver back ?

When you get in it and drive it for the first time are you going to scream

" Hi Ho Silver Away! "
You sure you don't do drugs anymore ya phat bastard?:goodfinge


I don't know when she comes home. Hopefully before spring. I really don't want it home right now anyhow, got no place to park it.:toothless
 
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