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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am still trying to find the issue with my truck. Ran the codes and it passed in the KOEO test. Fuel pump seems to be working just fine.

Now I want to test the wiring. I really do not know where to start. How would I go about testing? I have a multimeter and voltage tester (requires no power to be on).

I guess I was hoping to find out where I should start. I need to know what I should be checking first.

The truck is turning over but not starting. Prior to this it would run fine then crap out after driving for 20 or so minutes and not start again for a couple of hours up to a full day.

I had swapped out the ignition coil and everything seemed good. It started right up but then a couple of days later died again on the highway (3rd time!!!).

I replaced the fuel filter, the ignition module, the ignition coil and recently I did the wires, rotor and cap.

Thanks!
 

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Have you tested the fuel pump relay and the inertia switch? what is the fuel pressure when it craps out/wont start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Where is the fuel pump relay? The inertia switch should be located inside the cab either on the driver/passenger kick panel? I do not know the actual fuel pressure as I pushed the valve on top on the engine down with the key on and fuel squirted out. Is that not an accurate way of testing? Probably not..hahaha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just checked the inertia switch and it was down(red button in a black housing/switch). Should it be up..i didnt see anything about it in the manual.

My truck now is starting to turn over slower and then it eventually just stopped and now just clicks. i do not know if the battery is dead (I really haven't used the power except to try and start it) or if it has something to do with playing with the inertia switch?
 

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Batteries don't last very long under cranking. About the problem of running and then engine dies after 20 mins, then starts later. I had this exact problem, going nuts to find it. It was the in tank fuel pump getting bad. Would run and die when hot. Some days it ran fine. Not sure if this is what you have, but new tank pump fixed it. But what a B****h to fix it. Read some of the posts about cutting an access door in the floor. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know I need to charge the battery. It just happened when I went out to check the inertia switch. Thank you for that picture....it will help me.

As for the fuel pump...I hear it make a noise when I turn the key. Could it still be making a noise and still not be working correctly? Also when I checked the valve on the fuel rail it squirted fuel in a steady stream.

The good news is that I took the liberty of cutting out the access hole already just in case it is the fuel pump and also for the future. I thought it'd be a good thing to do no matter what. Plus it gave me an excuse to use my new Dremel...which worked awesome!

EDIT:
I just have to say that I hope you all can bear with me here. I am just learning all this stuff as I have never worked on vehicles before. Everything is a new experience but I am happy and excited to learn. Some things that sound obvious to most or that may even be written in the manuals either I do not know or really do not understand/grasp. This board is really my only source of information and it to date has helped me tremendously.

Billy
 

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A steady stream of fuel doesn't necessarily mean you have enough pressure to start the engine test the pressure with a gauge. Auto zone rents the tester it is pricey (200 bones) but they give you a full refund when you bring it back or they sell it for 50 bones no refund unless defective. Back to the point we need to know what pressure you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am on the fuel pressure today after work. I got a fuel pressure tester the other day from autozone but think I got the wrong one.



I saw on the autozone website that they have one that fits on the schradder valve. I got to go back to exchange and pick this one up..



I should have taken care of this a week ago but i'm on track for tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I exchanged the fuel pressure tester this afternoon. Tested it just a few minutes ago but it was only the KOEO test. I did the test 3 times and got 39/39/38.

According to the Haynes manual KOEO should be at 35 to 45 psi.
 

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Pressure is good! Do you know if the injectors are functioning? Have any starting fluid? See if it will run with starting fluid. Have you checked for spark since the no start condition developed? You say you did the KOEO test what codes did you get?
 

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Did you change plugs when you did wires and coil etc...

If you did and said that already I apologize. The battery is dying, the grounds could be loose. I also agree that you should check the in tank pump. If you already cut the access hole its not too terrible of a job. I think the part is like 45 bucks or something along those lines so its not neccessarily a bad thing to replace.

Good luck and keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did change the plugs, wires, coil, rotor and cap.

The code that I got was 111.

I got a pressure reading of 38psi when I did the KOEO fuel pressure test. I can hear the fuel pump starting up when I turn the key. If I do take out the in tank fuel pump what am I looking for? What am I checking?

What do I do with the starting fluid? Where do I put it?

As for spark I did check it with a spark plug tester I had purchased and I saw a white spark. This was when the truck was sometimes running but it is no longer running.

I just dont know what do do anymore with this truck. I am at my limit. I have spent money on tools/testing equipment and so far none of it has given me any help at all. What the ****!!!

How can I go out and just blindly spend money on replacement parts when I dont even know if the parts are bad? I have extra coils and control modules but they didnt help so far.

Sorry for the ranting I am just carless and fed up.
 

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Dont pull they pump it works fine @ 38 psi. Do you have a spark now? Spray the starting fluid in the intake tube. Check the spark and let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
theramsey3..alright. I will try the starting fluid. As for testing spark I have the tester that plugs in between the plug and wire. It shows the spark while it is running but will it show a spark while the truck is just turning over?
 

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If everything is working right on the ignition system you will get a spark any time you have the key on and engine cranking/spinning/running. If you dont have a spark while cranking you need to find out why. Wont run with out it. Test it and get back to us.
 

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Bear with me my typing skills suck!

distributor mount TFI module test





to test the coil get out the DMM test the primary circuit for resistance it should be .3-1 ohms test the secondary circuit from the coil negative to the plug wire output resistance should be 8,000 to 11,500 ohms

Test for power at the coil with the key in the run position. Test ignition module output with a test light put the test light between the two wires at the coil harness if it flashes TFI module and PIP are functioning.

Coil primary circuit(see the below picture for TFI module pin out)

to test the coil primary circuit you should have already tested for 12v+ from coil to ground with key in run position now you need to test from TFI pin 2 to coil negative with harnesses disconnected resistance should be less than 5 ohms

next test from coil negative with only the coil harness disconnected to ground should be more than 10,000 ohms.

test power supply to the TFI module by using the chart in


PIP test distributor mounted TFI only
Test for AC voltage from pin 6 of the TFI module with harness connected to negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be 3-8.5 volts

PIP test remote mount TFI only

remote mount module distributor harness


disconnect the distributor harness and test for 12v+ at pin 8 with the key in the run position now disconnect the S terminal at the starter solenoid/relay to disable the starter and turn key to start position test for voltage again. Hook the S terminal back up to the starter solenoid/relay test for AC voltage from pin 1 of the distributor to the negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be between 3-8.5

measure from module pin 6 to distributor pin 1 resistance should be less than 5 ohms and finally measure from pin 6 of the remote TFI module to ground you should get more than 10,000 ohms.
 
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