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1995 5.8, 2.5" Rough Country Lift, Extended RA's, 4.10's, 33" BFG's
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6,273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sup Guys?!

Yesterday I put the Bronco in 4 wd. I pushed the button and nothing, no clicks, no lights no nothing, tried a few more times and finally she went into 4 wd.
I drove a couple hundred feet to make sure my new hubs were working, turned off the engine.
20 minuets later I starter her up, I noticed none of the 4 wd lights were on, no dash lights, no button lights, nothing. I tried to shift out of 4 wd and got no relay clicking or anything else and it was stuck in 4 low.
I checked things out underneath and noticed the insulation on the speed sensor wiring was in terrible shape, most of it was missing(crumbly and dry rotted)but the wire itself was intact and I made sure none of them were grounding out, but still a dead system.
So, I gave up for the day and began to research this problem, found Steve83's t-case diagnosis page and was ready to go at it this morning.
Jumped in the truck this morning and turned the ignition on and everything worked, dash lights and button lights were on and it shifted right out of 4 wd.

So, to me this sounds like a possible ground problem but what grounds do I check?
Also, could the crappy insulation on the speed sensor wires be a problem?.

I've got a manual t-case sitting in the garage but till I get it in I'd like to have this one reliable.

Thanks


J
 

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I wouldnt spend any time looking for a ground if I had a manual t-case sitting around. We changed the t-case on my sons 95 f-150 and he says it was the best upgrade we have done to his truck. No more looking for a bad ground, worrying about breaking wires off, shorting something out doing water crossings. Just a better way to go. the reason we changed his was it went out on I-70 not using 4x4. hadnt used the 4x4 in weeks and it just went. That is what I would do.
 

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yo J,
In diagram 96CowlDashPanelDoorWiring below, see
#7 — To Ground (Part of 14301) This is G201 Behind bottom of LH cowl panel (driver's side kick panel)

In diagram 96RHInnerCowlWiringpassside below, see
#8 — To Ground; this is G200 Behind bottom of RH cowl panel
Component
Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor
Electronic Shift Control Module
Instrument Cluster
Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM)
Remote/Keyless Entry Module
Speed Control Servo/Amplifier Assembly

Did you do the tests shown in Steve's site?
esp about... "... If the dash lights on any vehicle don't respond, look for no power or a burned out bulb

If no lights illuminate as you go through the shifts and ground power and bulbs are good, then the module is at fault or the motor has stopped at an intermediate point..."
So
re-read about the motor tests, etc.

Do what Fords call a Wiggle test on the connectors and harnesses
 

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Did you follow the links in the caption to the wiring diagrams? Did you inspect the grounds? Did you check voltage to the switch?

ESOF's main advantage is that it can engage auto hub locks at-speed (up to 55mph), and truely shift from pure 2H to working 4H on-the-fly. If you don't have auto hub locks (which are every bit as strong as manuals), then you lose this advantage, and there's no reason NOT to swap to a manual t-case. Then you gain the advantage of having N.
 

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Premium Member
1995 5.8, 2.5" Rough Country Lift, Extended RA's, 4.10's, 33" BFG's
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6,273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you follow the links in the caption to the wiring diagrams? Did you inspect the grounds? Did you check voltage to the switch?

ESOF's main advantage is that it can engage auto hub locks at-speed (up to 55mph), and truely shift from pure 2H to working 4H on-the-fly. If you don't have auto hub locks (which are every bit as strong as manuals), then you lose this advantage, and there's no reason NOT to swap to a manual t-case. Then you gain the advantage of having N.
I was going to check all that this morning...but like I said everything was working after sitting overnight!!??

I'm still going to check things out this week.

Miesk5, thanks for the diagrams!

The manual case I have is going in for sure, but i'd also like to figure out my current problem.


Unrelated to my original post....I noticed there are different shifting linkage setups for the manual 1356. One provides a little smoother operation....would that be the one used on 92+ models?
My manual 1356 is out of a 91 and I believe I have read on here that they(the linkage) tends to bind
 

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Smoothness has nothing to do with it, and one isn't any smoother than another. Later shifters don't pop out of gear accidentally, and they work differently, so they're not 100% interchangeable. Read these captions:

.
 

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Premium Member
1995 5.8, 2.5" Rough Country Lift, Extended RA's, 4.10's, 33" BFG's
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6,273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Smoothness has nothing to do with it, and one isn't any smoother than another. Later shifters don't pop out of gear accidentally, and they work differently, so they're not 100% interchangeable. Read these captions:

.
Thanks for the info!...thought the two were interchangable
 
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