Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Premium Member
1995 5.8, 2.5" Rough Country Lift, Extended RA's, 4.10's, 33" BFG's
Joined
·
6,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sup Guys?!

Yesterday I put the Bronco in 4 wd. I pushed the button and nothing, no clicks, no lights no nothing, tried a few more times and finally she went into 4 wd.
I drove a couple hundred feet to make sure my new hubs were working, turned off the engine.
20 minuets later I starter her up, I noticed none of the 4 wd lights were on, no dash lights, no button lights, nothing. I tried to shift out of 4 wd and got no relay clicking or anything else and it was stuck in 4 low.
I checked things out underneath and noticed the insulation on the speed sensor wiring was in terrible shape, most of it was missing(crumbly and dry rotted)but the wire itself was intact and I made sure none of them were grounding out, but still a dead system.
So, I gave up for the day and began to research this problem, found Steve83's t-case diagnosis page and was ready to go at it this morning.
Jumped in the truck this morning and turned the ignition on and everything worked, dash lights and button lights were on and it shifted right out of 4 wd.

So, to me this sounds like a possible ground problem but what grounds do I check?
Also, could the crappy insulation on the speed sensor wires be a problem?.

I've got a manual t-case sitting in the garage but till I get it in I'd like to have this one reliable.

Thanks


J
 

·
Premium Member
1995 5.8, 2.5" Rough Country Lift, Extended RA's, 4.10's, 33" BFG's
Joined
·
6,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you follow the links in the caption to the wiring diagrams? Did you inspect the grounds? Did you check voltage to the switch?

ESOF's main advantage is that it can engage auto hub locks at-speed (up to 55mph), and truely shift from pure 2H to working 4H on-the-fly. If you don't have auto hub locks (which are every bit as strong as manuals), then you lose this advantage, and there's no reason NOT to swap to a manual t-case. Then you gain the advantage of having N.
I was going to check all that this morning...but like I said everything was working after sitting overnight!!??

I'm still going to check things out this week.

Miesk5, thanks for the diagrams!

The manual case I have is going in for sure, but i'd also like to figure out my current problem.


Unrelated to my original post....I noticed there are different shifting linkage setups for the manual 1356. One provides a little smoother operation....would that be the one used on 92+ models?
My manual 1356 is out of a 91 and I believe I have read on here that they(the linkage) tends to bind
 

·
Premium Member
1995 5.8, 2.5" Rough Country Lift, Extended RA's, 4.10's, 33" BFG's
Joined
·
6,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Smoothness has nothing to do with it, and one isn't any smoother than another. Later shifters don't pop out of gear accidentally, and they work differently, so they're not 100% interchangeable. Read these captions:

.
Thanks for the info!...thought the two were interchangable
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top