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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys I have been looking on here a few days and see that its a good place for Q's and A's. Im new here and to the bronco scene. I just picked up a 1988 FSB w/351 & c-6. that has 108,800miles on it. The truck runs pretty good. I have an exhaust prob. and that is getting done next week. I have long tube headers and am running duals with 40 series flowmasters with 21/4" piping.

Sorry for rambling. My questions are That when i start it it starts but when it goes to idle down it stalls.( So i replaced the iac. Still does it)????
Once I start driving it wont stall and it runs fine, but when i come off the gas the orange check engine light comes on. Could this be the EGR or The TPS?????? Cause i think the egr is shot.( gonna eliminate the egr when i do the headers. but just wondering. I also changed the O2 sensor.

Also the smog pump is shot. so I was wondering what is the best way to eliminate this and what else has to be removed with this???? I was thinking of removing the pump than cutting the belt to the size and bringing it to store to match with a smaller belt. Will this work???

I also just heard of some stuff called seafoam. I was wondering if anyone thinks this would help. or if anyone has used it. Or if it might hurt me. Cause I know that sometimes the crap thats in there holds the motor together..


EMISSIONS is NOT a concern for me with inspection. So any help would greatly be appreciated. Thank You all in advance.

Jay
 

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The Anti Yam!
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1. Welcome to FSB.:beer

2. You should go to the intraductions forum and start a post there to intraduce yourself to the board and it's members.
:thumbup

3. This is the tech write up and installs forum. It is for wrightups that members have done on technical isues and for wrightups on projects and installs. This thread belongs in either "General repair and tech help" or "80-96 Broncos"

4. Do you like Yams?

5. Long tube headers are a no, no if you ever plan on an SAS.

6. I do not rekomend removing the EGR.

7. You need to check for codes.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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fast_1_m said:
My questions are That when i start it it starts but when it goes to idle down it stalls.( So i replaced the iac. Still does it)????
Once I start driving it wont stall and it runs fine, but when i come off the gas the orange check engine light comes on. Could this be the EGR or The TPS?????? Cause i think the egr is shot.( gonna eliminate the egr when i do the headers. but just wondering. I also changed the O2 sensor.

Also the smog pump is shot. so I was wondering what is the best way to eliminate this and what else has to be removed with this???? I was thinking of removing the pump than cutting the belt to the size and bringing it to store to match with a smaller belt. Will this work???

I also just heard of some stuff called seafoam. I was wondering if anyone thinks this would help. or if anyone has used it. Or if it might hurt me. Cause I know that sometimes the crap thats in there holds the motor together..


EMISSIONS is NOT a concern for me with inspection. So any help would greatly be appreciated. Thank You all in advance.

Jay
The EGR can be bypassed with an eliminator that satisfies your computer available from Fireguy at http://www.fordfuelinjection.com. However, the computer is set up to take advantage of a side effect an EGR has which allows the use of 87 octane under conditions that might normally cause preignition.So if you plan on eliminating it, be very sensitive to knock. If you are getting any indication of knock step up a grade in gas.

The check engine light may be caused by either, check codes. However, the toasted air pump will certainly cause a check engine light by not supplying O2 when needed and the O2 sensor will certainly detect this. I'm not sure where you can get one, but O2 sensors bypass kits are also available.

Both bypass kits will be required to satisfy your computer if you remove the two functions. Both functions are easy to eliminate on a carbed engine and it can be tuned to run just fine without them. However, that is not necessarily the case with EFI engines sice the computer depends on the inputs from them to make adjustments.

Good luck,

:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you guys for the help. I figured that the codes thrown from the toasted pump. I will check out the egr eliminator and the fue shouldnt be an issue i always run 92 or 93 octane. I was wondering if anyone knows really what has to be plugged or taken out with smog pump. Or if anyone knows tghe easiest way to do what I am looking to do. its an 88 5.8 efi motor.


Gacknar Thanks for the advice im doing the self test mon. or tue after work. and I do not plan on doing SAS anytime soon truck needs a little more tlc to make sure she lasts. I already had the headers that my friend bought so I will put them on cause the price was right.(FREE) but i appreciate all the advice and I am still open for more from anyone.

has anyone ever used Seafoam ??? If so Does anyone think it is worth it or will it hurt me??? thank you
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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fast_1_m said:
I was wondering if anyone knows really what has to be plugged or taken out with smog pump. Or if anyone knows tghe easiest way to do what I am looking to do. its an 88 5.8 efi motor.
Obviously remove the pump and anything that attaches to it. Remove the pipe to the cat and cap or crimp off the connection at the cat. Remove the air pipe/s to the heads. (some have a cross over pipe in the back of the engine with one check valve. As long as the check valve is left on you can leave that since the check valve prevents exhaust gases from backing up into the air system or plug the holes in the rear of the heads. Others have a manafold with pipes to each exhaust port. They can be removed and plugged with plumbing plugs avaliable at a hardware store.)

Then you can remove the part of the vacuum system that operates the Air bypass valve and Diverter valve and cap it off at the TAB and TAD.

fast_1_m said:
has anyone ever used Seafoam ??? If so Does anyone think it is worth it or will it hurt me??? thank you
Yes, I have used it and if you go to the tech writeup forum you will find input from guys that have used it.

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok i am doint the exhaust later this week and will be doing all this than. Thank you for the help I really do appreciate this. I figured the pump and the hoses right to it but the rest I was a little confused on . thank you for clearing things up. I really appreciate it
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Seabronc said:
However, the computer is set up to take advantage of a side effect an EGR has which allows the use of 87 octane under conditions that might normally cause preignition.So if you plan on eliminating it, be very sensitive to knock. If you are getting any indication of knock step up a grade in gas.
The kit from FFI.com tells the computer that the EGR is closed (wich it is) the computer then changes it's stratigy to run without the enert EGR gas. So in theory the engine should run normal. In pactice, yes it can (not will) couse pinging. Doing this will couse a code to be stored in the CM but it will not turn on the light.


Seabronc said:
the toasted air pump will certainly cause a check engine light by not supplying O2 when needed and the O2 sensor will certainly detect this. I'm not sure where you can get one, but O2 sensors bypass kits are also available.
My Broncos entire thermactic system was removed in 1993. The codes it couses are just the ones for the TAB and TAD. Your thinking about OBD 2 vehichles wich have an o2 after the cat. The o2 simulator you spoke of is called a MIL Eliminator. They are only for the after cat o2 sensor and cannot be used to replace the primary sensor on an 88
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok I was just looking at the egr kit from FFI. Im gonna get it and go through it. later this week gonna remove everything. Do you recomend removing air pump or just disconnecting it??? and should I use the resistors on tab and tad to eliminate them?? Thank you and sorry for all the questions but i appreciate all the help.

Jay
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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fast_1_m said:
Ok I was just looking at the egr kit from FFI. Im gonna get it and go through it. later this week gonna remove everything. Do you recomend removing air pump or just disconnecting it??? and should I use the resistors on tab and tad to eliminate them?? Thank you and sorry for all the questions but i appreciate all the help.

Jay
What's the point in keeping the air pump if it is bad and you want to clean up the space under the hood?
 
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