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Discussion Starter #1
Right now i have a 1995 Bronco with a 5.8L and a E4OD with the speed density system. The original motor has about 208,000 miles and still running very strong. But I'm planning on doing a build up/rebuild soon. I was planning on getting a set of Gt-40 heads, a Edelbrock Performer truck intake, E303 cam, roller rockers, and headers to go along with my bassani y-pipe and 3" exhaust.

I'm guessing that this combo will exceed the limits of the stock speed density system. So I'm thinking I will have to convert to MAF. My question after reading quite a few threads about MAF is can I install a computer, MAF sensor, and ducting from a 94 or 95 5.0L MAF E4OD. Use one of Ryan's MAF conversion harnesses, repin my harness and have a functioning system? I don't really want to have a stand alone computer for my transmission. My Bronco also already has the black TFI module if that matters.

The TFI module is mounted remotely on the inner fender.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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That camshaft is going to leave a lot of low-end torque on the doorstep.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Depends what you want out of the truck, but the factory roller cam isn't too shabby. If I'd had one laying around in my garage when I was partially rebuilding mine, instead of the Mustang camshaft, I'd have gone with that one. If I can find one I'll probably swap over to it, since most of my driving is done in the idle to 2000 RPM range anyway; this sucker will pull hard, past the factory rev limiter (I've since bumped it to 6500), but I don't really need power up there. Sure, I really love the flat-as-a-board torque curve, but right now I'm looking for more economic off-idle torque production.

Once you start getting into the higher-duration camshafts, the low-end torque suffers horribly, and that's no good in a heavy vehicle, let alone a daily-driven one. Pay close attention to the flow numbers of the heads at different valve lifts, then decide whether it's really worth the few thousandths extra lift of an aftermarket cam. Note also how little time is spent at the higher lift range (0.400-0.500) compared to the 0.100-0.400 range for most of them as well.

The E303, one of the mildest cams Ford Racing offers, doesn't allow the engine to feel like it's putting out much until you're up to about 3000 RPM. So putting that against a torque converter with a flash stall rating of about 2000 RPM, it's gonna feel like going nowhere fast until the truck's moving and the engine speed gets up higher. It wouldn't be as bad if you were to install a 3000 RPM stall converter, but that would be a potentially bad idea in such a heavy vehicle with all the heat that would generate.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well i just really want to use it as a daily driver with some trailer towing or off roading once in a while.

I would really like to see an improvement in gas mileage, if that's even possible haha.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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Discussion Starter #7
Ya i'm looking through that camshaft thread now. But my main question is about converting over to MAF. Anyone have any info about using a 94 or 95 5.0L MAF computer to run a 5.8L?
 

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The Anti Yam!
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I was planning on getting a set of Gt-40 heads, a Edelbrock Performer truck intake, E303 cam, roller rockers, and headers to go along with my bassani y-pipe and 3" exhaust.

I'm guessing that this combo will exceed the limits of the stock speed density system.
Cam won't work with SD, but the rest is Ok.

But depending on how high you run the RPM's, that combo wont work with MAF either.

SD is fine with any reasonable mod as long as the LSA on the cam is 114* or better. Other than that, the 19lb/hr injectors become the limit on what you can do.

Factory MAF run's the same 19lb/hr injectors. So it has the same fuel delivery limit's as SD.

Go above the ability of the factory injectors on either one and you will need to have it tuned/chipped.

Or do like I have been doing and deliberatly choke the intake untill you can get it tuned. :toothless

If your question is will the SEFI-MassAir system from a 302 support a 351w, the answer is yes. Again, the limiting factor is injector size, not displacement.
 

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Ya i'm looking through that camshaft thread now. But my main question is about converting over to MAF. Anyone have any info about using a 94 or 95 5.0L MAF computer to run a 5.8L?
shane,

Thats what I did. If you do decide to go with MAF, here are some thoughts:

I am using a Ford F150 5.0L WAY1 PCM (F5TF-12A650-JB). Using Ryan's Truck MAF Conversion Harness is neat and clean with all of the required connectors and allows you to use your existing Wiring Harness.

Keeping my original harness allowed me to keep my ACT/IAT in the existing Speed Density Intake Manifold location instead of relocating it to the Air Box. This in return allowed me to use my existing K&N Intake Air Tube by modifying the Air Filter end for installation of a Pro-M 75mm MAF Sensor.

This PCM allows for the continued use of a single HEGO, like you are probably using currently. Although Ryan's Truck MAF Conversion Harness does have provisions for Stereo HEGO's as required for the BIO0, A9L & A9P PCM's, it is not required for the WAY1, VEX1 or AKCO PCM's. Your existing Wiring Harness is already using a wired connector for the required single HEGO, just don't use the second one included with Ryan's Truck MAF Upgrade Harness.

Your TFI already has a CCD (Computer Controlled Dwell) Black ICM which is a no-brainer for you as it is designed for the WAY1 PCM which is from a 1995 MAF Truck. I have had no problems or codes keeping my existing Push Start Gray ICM, but others have seemed to have problems without re-wiring for an upgrade.

Finally, you currently have a Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM) where I have a Mechanical Speedometer. The difference is that your existing VSS comes from your rear differential through your PSOM to the PCM with an existing Chassis Ground to Pin #6 (VSS-). My Transfer Case mounted VSS goes directly to the PCM and has no Chassis Ground, which was the source of an aggravated search of wiring and schematics to find the solution.

When all is said and done, a Custom Tune may be in the cards for you, especially if you keep the stock ACT/IAT location and to tune your E4OD shift points. Keep in mind that you may need to address your stock fuel system, depending upon your horsepower projection and fuel injector selection, to support the PCM in maintaining a proper Air/Fuel Ratio.

In summary, this should work well for your MAF Upgrade as your 1995 Speed Density 5.8L will not have the same issues that my 1990 5.8L did in regard to ICM and VSS differences. Not that I could not work around them, just more research.

See my MAF Upgrade - Lessons Learned Thread. :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Seattle. I did read through your thread before and was kinda confused about the VSS and TFI issues, but thanks for clearing those up :thumbup

The only problem i see know is finding a place that can dyno tune it for me. Anybody know of any places around the NW central PA region?
 

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I have a question on these same lines. Will a stock 90 5.8 speed density computer run a 96 shortblock with GT40X heads, lightning intake, headers and exhaust? Or would this require a mass air upgrade? I want custom cam, mass air, and custom tune, but my wallet does not. lol

Also Sig how do you think this cam would perform with those mods? Truck will have the E4OD transmission, has 4.11 gears and 33" tires.

thanks
tim
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys I think i'm gonna talk to my cousin, who works in a engine machine shop, what he thinks about what engine componets
I should use. He already told me he dosen't know anything about the MAF/SD thing haha.

I'll let you guys know what he recommends.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Remember that it's a good decision -- time, money, sanity, and otherwise -- to UNDER-build an engine, rather than deal with the temporary pleasures and enduring pains of an OVER-built engine. If you're like me, you've had many friends over the years use WAY too large a cam, heads, injectors, everything, to the point it wasn't even fun or economical to drive. I've been guilty of this too, putting on racing parts individually because I thought it'd make me faster, but damn did it suck having to tweak and tune it every stinkin' day, not to mention the stalling, poor low-speed driveability (which is great in city traffic), and refusal to start in cold weather! I mean especially for a daily-driver, who wants to spend hours every night working on it? Only a masochist or an unseasoned mechanic, and it inevitably leads to frustration.

Props to you for planning this thing out and getting many points of view. :thumbup
 
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