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Discussion Starter #1
So one more small qwerk with my new ride. When I put the truck in reverse it puts a load on the engine and kills it. Is the tranny acting up? Maybe low tranny fluid? maybe even a vaccuum leak!
 

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it could be sumthin simple. do a tune-up recently? you could have mixed-up a spark plug wire. or it could be wires arcing really bad. look under the hood in the dark. any lights?
 

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green ones make me horny
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Eclipzed98 said:
mine does it too, i am pretty sure it's the torque converter, and from what i hear its a pain to replace

your tc will not cause it to die in revers. check your MLP sensor. search for it and you will see
 

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Mine stalls in reverse also. I was under the impression it could be the IAC that doesn't give the engine that extra "shot" when shifting into reverse. Anyone else have this idea or any other beneficial ones? It's a real pain in the ass to parallel park :toothless

:beer

Tony
 

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1clean5.8 said:
check your Idle mine was too low I bumped it up to 800 now it works great.
Did you just use the stop screw, or you got a carb or what......how did you turn the idle up?
 

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mine used to do that...i installed dual tip bosch spark plugs when i did a tune up...truck would be low in rpms at idle and when i clicked into reverse it would die...
changed the spark plugs to autolites and havent had a problem since

dc
 

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Mash harder on the skinny pedal on the right :twak :histerica
But try upping the idle a little and possible a tune up. Maybe a TPS also, but a bad TPS would also affect no matter what direction your going. i would think
 

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1clean5.8 said:
there is and idle screw on the throttle body. I am EFI
You got a pic of its location....or are you talking about the stop screw that the butterfly linkage hits when the throttle is fully closed?
 

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Streetgang said:
You got a pic of its location....or are you talking about the stop screw that the butterfly linkage hits when the throttle is fully closed?

From what I've heard, you shouldn't play with that set screw. If the idle needs to be bumped up, it should be done with the computer. Again, this is what I've heard, I dunno if its true or not, but I assume it would mess with the computer. Think about it, when your truck is cold and you start it, the computer automatically revs the truck up to about 1400 (for me) and after 3 minutes slows down. IF I hit the gas before it does that though, even just a tap, the truck will go back to normal idle (550rpm). So if you change that screw, wont the TPS pick it up, and cause the computer not to do its thing in a bunch of situations?

Mine stalls in reverse also. I was under the impression it could be the IAC that doesn't give the engine that extra "shot" when shifting into reverse. Anyone else have this idea or any other beneficial ones? It's a real pain in the ass to parallel park
Tony
Anytime the throttle is closed, the IAC is supposed to go to 100% duty cycle, and then level out to the programmed idle. Maybe yours is all gunked up, check out the tech writeup on how to clean it, it was cake to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Its not the idle but same as boat dude! Just a enogh load to stall it only in reverse and at anytime (hot or cold). Oh and here's another: It starts very easy when cold but warm it tanks a few cranks? Almost like the primer injector doesn't work? I do need to do a tune-up then may look further.
 

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DcSkater602 said:
mine used to do that...i installed dual tip bosch spark plugs when i did a tune up...truck would be low in rpms at idle and when i clicked into reverse it would die...
changed the spark plugs to autolites and havent had a problem since

dc

when i had the 4 tip bosch. any cold day the bronco wouldnt want to start. then i switched to autolites and all of the problems went away lol
 

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I can usually keep the engine going so long as I hit the gas, but it will run at very low RPMs with a lot of shaking for a few seconds, then recover. I actually tried cleaning my IAC with air intake cleaner, I took it off and filled the chambers with it. Since I couldn't find a toothbrush, I took a high quality paper towel and wrapped it around a toothpick and tried to clean it out that way. I don't know if it's still good or not. I don't think there is any way to test the IAC to see if it moves or works at all, but if there is, I'd really appreciate it! I think that's what it is. I have new Autolite sparkplugs overgapped to .055 with the MSD coil. My idle is around 550 - 600 normally. I don't think it's too low because it'll pick up just fine when I let off the brake, and it will push itself until it shifts into second usually. It didn't used to do this, it happened a few times when I would back up with a trailer, and then one day, it started stalling in reverse. It would also do it if I parked with the nose of the truck facing up and shifted right into reverse to pull out of a driveway (engine semi-warm). Normally, the high idle from starting cold keeps the engine running, but shifting into reverse warm usually results in stalling. What's the MLP, by the way? Also, could it have something to do with the switch that bumps the idle when you shift into reverse? I thought our trucks were equipped with this. By the way, I'm a 1996 Eddie with a 302. Any other ideas?

:beer

Tony
 

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Crusher Mike
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Streetgang said:
You got a pic of its location....or are you talking about the stop screw that the butterfly linkage hits when the throttle is fully closed?
its an adjuster screw where the throttle linkage connects to the throttle body.
Yes you can play with it why else is it there ? Its like messing with a motorcycle idle screw. Ill try to get a couple pics.
 

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Probably,one of the first things that you should do is to retreive any codes from the computor to see if there are any pertaining to the stalling condition.If you have to "play" with the base idle screw,you have other problems,this screw should give you an idle speed of approx 500 RPM with the IAC un-hooked.When the IAC is hooked up,the idle speed should be approx 700-750 RPM in park or neutral,controlled by the computor.Adjusting this scew to increase the idle speed,while it works,is only a band-aid fix.Since you've already cleaned the IAC,the next step in cleaning would be to remove the throttle body assembly and clean the crud from around the throttle plates.Once cleaned and installed,disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear the computor.There is a possibility that the IAC motor is faulty and requires replacing.If the problem is the T/C causing the stalling,it would feel like letting the clutch out on a standard transmission,in gear with your foot on the brake.Kind of like laboring down and finally stalling.This was a problem in the E4OD transmissions,this could be caused by a transmission oil filter that has fallen out of place/sucking air,poor flow through the transmission cooler/s,T/C solenoid plugged or not working properly,a problem in the front pump or T/C,or a transmission that is toast.
 
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