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Discussion Starter #1
Engine dies randomly while driving and tries to run after turning off by key. I pulled the dist. cap off and looks fine i guess lol no apparent damage. Looks like a recently replaced pickup too. I don't know how to check the coil but would the coil cause something like this? Pretty sure its electrical not fuel problem because it doesn't sputter or anything just turns right off while driving.
 

Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Engine dies randomly while driving and tries to run after turning off. I pulled the dist. cap off and looks fine i guess lol no apparent damage. Looks like a recently replaced pickup too. I don't know how to check the coil but would the coil cause something like this? Pretty sure its electrical not fuel problem because it doesnt sputter or anything just turns right off.
so, which is it? if it was an 89 or other EFI year, I'd say you may have a TPS problem. But being you only have a '78 posted, I'm clueless. Either way... clarify your point for those who would know. :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #3
oh yea thanks i should of been more clear. Well when driving it shuts right off with no sputtering . When i do park and turn the key to off it will try to continue to run and does sputter to a stop.
Driving- turns off with no hesitation or warning (still runs and drives normal otherwise)
Park and turn the key- Roughly sputters to a stop
Its a 1978
 

AKA: Butthead
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Does it need time to cool off before everything is ok again?

------------------------------------

The way I'd go about this is different than anybody else would.

I'd start reading voltages and resistances following the instructions that
comes with a new ignition control module (the same instructions are in
the Ford Service Manual BTW, get a set;).

If that didn't turn anything up I'd just change out the ICM, they aren't that
expensive anymore. Besides if they changed the pickup and didn't change
the ICM (or got a cheap one instead of a Blue Streak) that might be a clue
to what's going on. But don't go by clue-crap like that, use a meter and
-know- what's going on and what's not going on easy as using a meter
and following some simple but lengthy (= thorough) instructions. ;)

Bet the testing will turn up something tho, like... you're ignition switch isn't
working so good. BTDT before. :) Bump the key with my knee or when
it gets bad, an extra rough patch of road that'd shut off the engine. It'd
sputter back to life again because it was still in gear and the contact started
carrying current again.

An analog meter is more sensitive than the equipment. The needle can
move and show you a problem that wouldn't make the vehicle act up.

Another way is to hook up an analog voltmeter to a suspected circuit
and prop the voltmeter up on the dash and drive it like normal and wait
for it to act up again. LOL :) But that's a last ditch method.

Alvin in AZ
 

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an ignition switch is like 9 bucks at the parts store... i have an 85 model and my truck used to spark knock like crazy especially going up hill. my gas gauge didnt work either. one day while i was driving my truck just shut off. would crank back up go a few feet down the road and just shut off again, no sputter no anything. i pulled the tank down and my sending unit was rusty and the pickup in the tank was clogged with rust and stuff and the tank was so far gone that i ordered a new one from lmc and also the sending unit. put the tank in and no spark knock and runs like a top...
 

Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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thanks for the great input and experience new guy! :thumbup
 
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