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1995 Eddie Bauer
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hello, I’m having some odd problems with my 95. symptoms ( these could be from multiple issues but they are reoccurring)
• check engine light comes on sporadically, usually when i go over forty miles and by the time i’m done with my drive and parked it will always be off. sometimes it lasts for a minute, sometimes five.
• occasionally the engine will crank but not turn over after i’ve driven then parked it for about an hour somewhere. then it will turn on about ten minutes later.
• has died while idling about three times, and each time it started again with no problem five seconds later. once in my own driveway, once at a light, always after different intervals of driving .

the alternator and battery are in good shape. i took it to the mechanics and they couldn’t figure out anything, they replaced my fuel filter but even after i’m still having these problems. my mechanic suggested i replace the idle control valve but i’m suspecting it might be more than that?
I took some codes as well when my engine wouldn’t crank in a parking lot yesterday, and i’m not sure they’re right. I believe I got 558, which means an EGR vacuum regulator solenoid circuit failure, so i’ve been researching that. any help or suggestions/ tests i could run would be appreciated. i’m mostly armed with google and a haynes manual, so please bare with me and my minimal knowledge and keep it in layman’s terms? the best you can, thank you so much.
 

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this sounds like a temp related issue, so electronics are most likely. Some of the guys with newer trucks will be able to help more, there is an issue with a component on the distributor I believe though that can be temp sensitive. could be causing issues while driving as well, it does cause issues with starting and at idle though
 

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Yo Lea,
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). t

Since it was flashing while driving, try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded
PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.
Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting. Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc. Check EEC system including the wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc. Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage. TPS, ICM, DISTRIBUTOR, etc. Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture. Check the transmission fluid & engine oil level and quality. Make all necessary repairs before continuing with SELF TEST.
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test . Post Code(s) here according to KOEO & KOER.
A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS
Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.
Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.

Does starter crank engine over as usual before this issue ocurred? If not,
See major Ground pics by jowens1126 @ Fuel gauge not working on new build in post #1
Also
&
Check both battery posts, cables, connectors & GROUNDS for looseness and corrosion. If you see corrosion on a cables' wires strands between connectors or lugs and leading into the insulation, peel back the insulation to see how far back it reaches.
by El Kabong @
"Cheesy clamp on end. Do not use for a long term repair. Only to get you home when nothing else is available. If you have one of these, suspect it before anything else" El Kabong @ Common Replies to FAQs

Check starter relay for looseness or rust to the inner fender. It's ground is through its body to the inner fender.
Check that starter is mounted securely and connectors are clean and tight.

Engine Block pic in a 94 5.8; "...The black battery wire goes from the front bolt of the engine mount (on the block) to this tab & up to the battery post, where a smaller black wire goes to the core support, providing a continuous ground path between the engine, frame, battery, & body..."

Source: by CodysBigBlueBronco (how much $???)

Intake Manifold to Block Strap Location pic in a 96 5.0
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at SuperMotors.net

it is between 2nd & 3rd plugs on passenger side
..

Engine Starter Subsystem and Battery, 5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L Engines
12 14301 To Engine Ground
18 12A581 Body Grounds
19 14301 Chassis Ground
23 N802777-S36 Bolt for 14301 Frame Ground, same as in CodysBigBlueBronco pic.

"Long crank times may be traced to a sticking Idle Air Control (IAC) valve (TSB 97-9-5, April '97); "...After a 1-4 hour engine soak time, long crank times and/or long crank to start followed by a stall may occur on some vehicles. No further stalling or rough idle will occur after the engine is running. The long crank and/or stall may be due to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve sticking. Replace the IAC Valve with a revised IAC Valve if no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present."
Ford Motorcraft units are best."

Idle Air Control (IAC)

Location pic by Steve
Testing..
"First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I've had the torture of learning throughout the years:
•Idle Air Bypass •Idle Air Control •Idle Speed Control •Throttle Bypass Air •Idle Bypass •Inlet Air Controller
•Inlet Air Bypass •Intake Air Bypass •Intake Air Control.
This is really easy to test. First as with all problems you should gather the trouble-codes from the computer. Follow the codes for testing and repair. If you get a code that points to a problem with the IAB start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection.
The IAB can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAB to function properly. Remove the IAB and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAB, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAB needs to be replaced." By Ryan M.

Next time this issue occurs, be prepared to go though ignition and fuel lressure tests in "How to Troubleshoot a No Start" @ Part 1 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).
Have on-hand a high energy spark tester or do itbold school way and a fuel pressure test kit available from local Parts stores under their loan a tool program with refundable deposit.

Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or DTC 211, TSB 95-15-11 in 93-95; (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT)
Source: by Ford ...cites DTC 211

Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests I'm gonna' show you, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are not interchangeable but are tested in the exact same way. Also, the photos (in the image viewer) show some of the tests performed on a V8 engine. This might make you think that they don’t apply to your 3.0L, 3.8L V6... well nothing could be further from the truth. All of these test steps apply to both the V8, V6 and L6 Ford engines. For a complete list of applications, see the list at the bottom of the page. As you can see from the image of the Ignition Control Module (in the image viewer on the left), the tests apply to the fender mounted Ford Ignition Control Module. If you need to test the Distributor Mounted Ford Ignition Control Module, click here: How to test the Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM). To test Ford Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coils (4.6L and 5.4L V8 engines), click here: Ford Coil-on-Plug (COP) Ignition Coil Tests. Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly and you turn the key to crank and start your Ford car or truck: 1.The Distributor shaft starts to rotate which causes the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor to start generating its Crankshaft Position Signal. 2.The Ignition Control Module (ICM), upon receiving this PIP Signal, starts to 'open and close' the Ignition Coil's primary current. As you might already be aware, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil Spark.3.The Fuel Injection Computer also receives the PIP Signal at the same time that the Ignition Module does.4.Once the engine STARTS, the Fuel Injection Computer takes over the Ignition Timing.The PIP Sensor is at the heart of this Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module and Ignition System. Here are some useful facts that you should be aware of about the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor: 1.The PIP Sensor is located in the Distributor.2.It's a Hall Effect type Sensor.3.It produces a digital square wave if its Signal is tested on an Oscilloscope. 4.This signal can also be tested with an LED Light (which is the method I'll use in this article). 5. 5.If it goes BAD, the your Ford car or truck will CRANK but NOT START. No expensive tools are required to test this type of Ignition System. Now, having said that, there some very specific tools that I recommend to use for the tests. So, here's the basic list:".. READ MORE @ Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
○⊙○
Al
 

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hello, I’m having some odd problems with my 95. symptoms ( these could be from multiple issues but they are reoccurring)
• check engine light comes on sporadically, usually when i go over forty miles and by the time i’m done with my drive and parked it will always be off. sometimes it lasts for a minute, sometimes five.
• occasionally the engine will crank but not turn over after i’ve driven then parked it for about an hour somewhere. then it will turn on about ten minutes later.
• has died while idling about three times, and each time it started again with no problem five seconds later. once in my own driveway, once at a light, always after different intervals of driving .

the alternator and battery are in good shape. i took it to the mechanics and they couldn’t figure out anything, they replaced my fuel filter but even after i’m still having these problems. my mechanic suggested i replace the idle control valve but i’m suspecting it might be more than that?
I took some codes as well when my engine wouldn’t crank in a parking lot yesterday, and i’m not sure they’re right. I believe I got 558, which means an EGR vacuum regulator solenoid circuit failure, so i’ve been researching that. any help or suggestions/ tests i could run would be appreciated. i’m mostly armed with google and a haynes manual, so please bare with me and my minimal knowledge and keep it in layman’s terms? the best you can, thank you so much.
Sounds like your EGR is getting stuck. The engine will cut out at a stop because the valve is open. The check engine will light at about 2k rpms because that's when it usually opens at that time, and if it isn't working it will light up.
 
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