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Discussion Starter #1
I had a small engine fire in the old Bronco last night. Best I can tell it was caused by an oil leak from the valve cover gasket running down and pooling on an exhaust pipe. The oil leak came on instantly, I had no oil drips in the driveway or anything. Good thing the San Diego 4 wheel drive club requires you to carry a fire extinguisher!!
The fire damage appears to be minimal (so far). It was on the passenger side just below the heater box. I lost a couple of vacuum lines and wires.

Here's where I need advice: (1982 w/ 351w and Holley 2 barrel)
1. I cleaned up the engine and located a huge oil leak on the driver's side valve cover.
2. When I applied some rpms to the engine I got oil coming out of the dipstick (I'm thinking blowby)
3. Compression test shows me approx 150psi on all cyl except #8 which is 0.

My current plan is to pull the valve cover in the morning and check out the valves. Logic tells me that the exhaust valve could be stuck or I have a bad oil ring.
What else should I be looking for? Are there any symptoms I need to check out before I pull the heads and such?

Any advice, thoughts, or sympathy would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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0 compression on one sounds bad to me, this could be your blowby issues if its a hole in the piston. might be a stuck valve, but sounds like yur in for a rebuild.
 

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But what does mine say?
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What does spinning a bearing have to do with it?

Sorry dude, but I think you're just gonna have to pull it apart to find out what's going on. Drain your oil and look for chunks of metal. That should tell you what you don't want to know. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the thoughts so far.
Here is a update:
1. I did the leakdown test and there was no change - still 0. I think this means valves?
2. Pulled the Valve Cover of the drivers side and turned it over everything looked like it was moving like it was supposed to.
3. Pulled the Intake Manifold. That looked OK.

I guess I'll pull the head tomorrow and take a look at the valves.

Am I missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh. It also seems to me that this is a good excuse to upgrade my intake manifold. Anybody on the board do this? I'm not sure what I can get with this combo: Smog Nazis (california), Holley 2 barrel carb (It's not an EECIV, I think it's the EECIII)
 

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the leakdown just tells you that it doesn't hold pressure over a period of time, the compression test gives you short term which can show good if the rings are just worn. could be as simple as a valve job but it sounds like your rings are shot. rebuild time.
 

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Guess its kinda hard to upgrade in CALYforny, You may be able to find a HO versin of your motor and go with a 4BBL thats carb aproved, I belave the Avenger series from holley is. Ref: the no Comprssion, when you pull the # 8 plug can you feel the piston with a Screw driver?... I have see a few that have burned a hole in the top, ... For the cheap side of this you'll just have to replace the piston, and check for the obvious damage....this is usuaully caused by running too lean. ....any way hope this helps and let us know the outcome....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the advice everyone. Thought I'd toss an update out.
The valves were bad in the #8 cyl. Head Gasket looked good, though. I have the fire damage to the wiring and hoses repaired. I lost the daylight, so I'll have to check the piston and walls in the morning.

OK. New thought on upgrading: Is it possible to upgrade to a 4 bbl carb from a 2 bbl? I was reading through some other posts and there was some references to auto trans and vacuum advance issues (I don't think I have vacuum advance on this.) I'm assuming I would have more 'on-demand' power when towing if I had an extra 2 barrels.
 

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You could upgrade to 4BBL carb, but what are you going to do come smog time? If it doesn't say 4BBL on the sticker, they won't let you pass go.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm not sure that I can. I figured that I'd call one of the smog referee stations and ask them. Maybe I could get an udated sticker or something from them. It seems to me that if you keep all of your smog stuff and the sniffer test comes out with the same or lower, then you could get some kind of waiver.
 

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I've friends that have modified their engine and passed smog with out a hitch and some have had to tear out all the goodies they put in and go back to factory original before they pass smog. California and their emissions test suck. That's why I'm glad I've got my truck registered in Florida - no smog test required thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, the laws here make it a little tough. I could do a 2 bbl carb too, I just heard the 4 was better.
 

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Have you ever thought of leaving the 2 BBL in there and up grading the tranny. I up graded my tranny when I rebuilt it. This will improve your pulling power and you don't have to worry about failing smog.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I really don't want to leave this 2bbl in. I think it's the 7200 variable venturi model (although I haven't proved it for sure yet) and everything I've read about them on the web is pretty bad. I had considered lower gearing to help with towing, but that's down the road. I was just thinking it was a good time to upgrade the engine section since I've already got the Intake and driver's side heads off.
 

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I am not sure anymore, but at one time you could put in an aftermarket intake and carb as long as they had the C.A.R.B. numbers. I also believe that you could use factory parts ie, intake and carb and that they would accept this also. I think yur best bet is go to a referee and ask them just what is allowed now.
Shane
 

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Leonard said:
the leakdown just tells you that it doesn't hold pressure over a period of time, the compression test gives you short term which can show good if the rings are just worn. could be as simple as a valve job but it sounds like your rings are shot. rebuild time.
but the leakdown tells you where it is leakig nby if you are smart enough to search for where the air is leaking from, and also gives you a percentage amount on how much is leaking out.
 
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