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Discussion Starter #1
So lately I’ve had a few weird things happen. Yesterday the truck shutoff when idling. Today I had the hood open and she was idling and she started to stutter. I have an MSD 6AL ignition module and it has a red light on it which also started to flicker just before she shut off.

I got her going again and then when I shut her off the engine just kept running on and would not shut off so I turned the key to on she started and then I shut her off. Finally I started her again and shut her off and a puff of smoke came out of the carb.

The previous owner had ignition issues and he gave me a spare ignition switch. So I’m thinking he had the same sort of problems.

I’m wondering if it’s a worn ignition lock cylinder.

Thoughts on this?

Thanks
 

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Yo D,
Yes Sir!
Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition key should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch
Ford recommends PTFE grease in column. Use powdered graphite in Lock Cylinder Slot.

What year do you have?

For now, here is 1983 ignition key lock cylinder replacement
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at ignitioncylinder
"The easy way:
Insert the key into the cylinder, turn to the "on" position, press the pin in that is located on the underside of the steering column. Now you just pull the cylinder out. You may have to wiggle a bit, or turn the key just a little, but that is all there is to it.
To install the new cylinder, just slide it into the column until the bottom tab goes into the square housing, and make sure the little pin locks into it's hole, and you are done.

The hard way:
There is no easy way of doing this if you can't get your key into the cylinder, or if you can't turn the key to the "on" position. If this has happened to you, you will need a drill, an assortment of sharp drill bits, and lots of time. Yes, you have to drill out the center of the cylinder. Start with a small drill bit, and work your way to a larger one, until you have drilled out the center (the part that rotates) of the cylinder. Once you have done this, you can then get a flathead screwdriver, put it in what is left of the cylinder, and turn the bottom piece (as if you were turning to the "on" position). Now you can pull the rest of the cylinder out. Again, you may have to wiggle the cylinder bit, or remove some burs left from drilling, but it will come out. Slide the new cylinder in, then get a vacuum to clean up all the metal shavings.
I did mine the hard way, and took me almost 8 hours. About 3 hours of that was drilling and cursing, and the rest was running around getting the part, towing the truck home, and figuring out how the heck to get the cylinder out. Not the day I had planned, so if your key sticks at all, CHANGE IT NOW!! A $20 part is not worth the aggravation."
****

Lock Cylinder Release Pin pic in an 85
Source: by JDApollo (John A)

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● for your year, engine etc, see tbis;
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Discussion Starter #3
Mine is mounted in the dash. What your describing is more like my 80 Bronco.

All good points though!
 

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So lately I’ve had a few weird things happen. Yesterday the truck shutoff when idling. Today I had the hood open and she was idling and she started to stutter. I have an MSD 6AL ignition module and it has a red light on it which also started to flicker just before she shut off.

I got her going again and then when I shut her off the engine just kept running on and would not shut off so I turned the key to on she started and then I shut her off. Finally I started her again and shut her off and a puff of smoke came out of the carb.

The previous owner had ignition issues and he gave me a spare ignition switch. So I’m thinking he had the same sort of problems.

I’m wondering if it’s a worn ignition lock cylinder.

Thoughts on this?

Thanks
Talk to @Quader1 he just had the same thing happen with similar MSD equipment
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One thing that may be affecting things is the timing.

Before I bought it about six weeks ago he put in a new dizzy and she had very old gas in her.

I just replaced the old gas the other day when she started acting up. I may be grasping at straws.
 

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Never leave a rig sitting with more then a gallon or two (so it can be fired once a month) then if you don’t want to drain carmelized gas you can add 15 gallons via gas can before you start driving it again. Old gas clogs shit up, try putting half a can of seafoam in the tank, on older engines I put half a can in the tank the other half in the crankcase with the oil, drive it fir 10-20 minutes to clean everything out and then change the oil. YMMV and my rigs are mostly older but it didn’t hurt the 08 Outback. The timing belt did!
 

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Mine is mounted in the dash. What your describing is more like my 80 Bronco.

All good points though!
Yo,
That is why everyone needs to fill our their signatures. However cylinder mechanical operation applies
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Funny enough, I put a can of Seafoam in when I added more gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yo,
That is why everyone needs to fill our their signatures. However cylinder mechanical operation applies
Thanks, I actually had the info under “about you” and have now fixed my signature!
 

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I use quality gas with Stabil when i store it for more than a month. Never use ethanol fuel. Seems to have worked
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well it was hard starting the truck and she did not want to idle. So I had to hold the gas a bit to keep her going. I shut her off and had run on.

Fired he up and let her warm up and the timing was 8 degrees. I increased it to 12 degrees and she sounds better. Shut her off and no run on. Let her sit for a while and she fired right up.

Pretty sure that resolved my issue. Now I just need to determine the optimum timing.
 

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What would be the standard timing for a „normal“ engine?
Yo simrokkzz,
1979 M-Block Ignition Timing Specifications​
Model​
Application​
Initial Timing​
Bronco, F100/150/250/350​
351M, auto trans, 49-state
400, auto trans​
6° BTDC​
Bronco, F100/150/250/350​
351M, manual trans, 49-state
400, manual trans​
10° BTDC​
Bronco, F100/150/250/350​
400, auto trans, high-alt​
12° BTDC​
By http://grantorinosport.org/bubbaf250/perf/perf10.html
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Remember those are stock timings. From what I’ve read these engines like 12 deg and higher. I’m going to put mine up to 14 deg at some point and work it up from there.
 
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