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Discussion Starter #1
I tried to turn off my 88 bronco and i turned the key to the off position but the engine kept running.

then pulled the key completely out of the ignition.
it felt really loose when i was turning the key back and forth

to turn the engine off i pulled off the coil wire from the top of the distributer and got a little shock but it shut it off. But then my radio and dash lights stayed on also so i just disconnected the battery.

i havent attempted to start it again

does any one know why this has happened? does have something to do with the ignition lock cylinders in the steering column?? help! thanks
 

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si vis pacem, para bellum
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sounds like its possibly your ignition switch but dont take my word for it
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i tried replacing my lock cylinder with a brand new one but the same thing still happened. i figured out there is a rod that goes down the steering column that moves back and forth when you turn the key. this rod is not catching with the lock cylinder.

i reached my hand up there and pulled the rod back thinking it would latch with the lock cylinder again but still no luck....
 

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Upper Ignition Actuator. Same exact thing happened to me.

Search for "Ignition Actuator Replacement '85".
Yup---JKossirides helped me do mine a couple of months ago----I think it took less than 2 hours. But take your time, cuz there ARE a couple of stupid little tricks to it...........
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks everyone. i took apart the steering colum and i found out the ignition actuator was broke in half like some of you said. i paid 12 bucks for a new one and im in the middle of putting it in right now. it was a lot of work to take everything off just for a little break in the housing. but i guess thats how it goes. thanks again!
 

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I had the same thing. Happened when I shut it off. In a hurry and had a tow truck take it to the local Ford Dealer (yeah, I know better). They quoted me over $400 to repair it. I told them I would be right there with a tow truck to pick it up. Really nice of them, they put it all back together for me before I got there. Kind of a PITA to do, but like you said, the part was $12.
 

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Thanks RickyB.......(PM sent)...lol lol

I think the hardest part of this PITA job is "timing" the drive gear inside where the key cylinder goes in ....so you have all key functions, ie: RUN/START, OFF/LOCK and AUX.....

A good pictoral reference source is the thread by Bronco Boy: Ignition Actuator Replacement on an 85 w/Tilt....

It shows very clearly in the first few threads after the key cylinder has been removed what "position" the drive gear is "in" (key in RUN position) by looking at the slots/tracks inside where the key cylnder slides in you'll notice the 3rd tooth of the drive gear counting from R to L is positioned right in the "middle" of the TOP slot/track....this a simple/quick way to reference the timing, now when you go to put the key cylinder back in with it's unique designed end, the end of it has to fit thru the washer with same unique design which keeps the grear drive in place so you'll wind up turning the grear drive backwards a few teeth BUT once in, turned forward to RUN/START it should START and have remaining key functions ....you may have to FOOL AROUND....lol lol.....with it until it functions correctly but this is how I do mine and it works everytime....

Make sure you lube/grease the upper ignition actuator "track" so it slides easily without binding etc.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #10
bronco boys write up is how i did mine. except there is NO need to take out the cylinder lock snap rings, gears, and gear shift lever. other than that, his write up is what heped me do it
 

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I agree that you don't have to take off the "column shifter" when replacing the "upper ignition actuator", however in order to get the broken upper ignition actuator pieces completely out of the track and disengaged.

A. you DO need to turn the key to "RUN" and pop out the key cylinder, snap ring, washer and drive gear ...because inside that metal column collar which has to be removed for accesss, right behind that drive gear is a short, spring loaded "lower ignition actuator" that has a loop on the end which attaches to the "upper ignition actuator" which has a tiny nipple on one side to accept the loop for forward "rotation", the lower actuator has teeth that mate with the drive gear.

B. then you need to remove the 3/32 x 3/8 "roll pin" that is attached thru the top of upper ignition actuator to keep the "ignition rod" end in place in that small center "slot" provided...


You'll notice that the lower actuator is held in place by a small screw and little "metal block keeper", right side when the steering wheel is removed, so when the metal collar is removed the lower actuator slides forward and out and only goes back in one way, look at the shape inside the metal collar...

When you turn the key to "RUN/START" ALL of these components need to "ROTATE" forward simultaneously so the ignition rod travels down far enough to "trigger" the ignition switch so the vehicle will "START"......clearly not one of Ford/s best designs IMO....

In the removal process of the broken upper igniton actuator you also need to carefully stretch the directional signal cam "wire harness" up enough to lay it out of the way because the first metal collar needs to come off in order to gain access to the broken actautor, lower actuator and all involved parts etc.etc. etc. here all you need do is loosen one ignition switch "7/16 nut" from the column stud below and take off the harness from the "curved metal "connector keeper" that's right there and you'll now have enough play with the harness.....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
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