Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an 89 EB 5.0 AOD and yesterday attempted to do a TFI relocate. There were 3 wires wrapped in aluminum that I left alone, and had to cut the other 3 to lengthen one and the other 2 were tangled up in the main body of wires. After doing the swap, i found that turning the key made a quick click then silence. After that, the fuel pump stopped working. Thought it was the battery, tried jumping it and that didnt work. So i went and got some butt connectors figuring that my connections were shitty.

One of the wires I had cut (green/yellow stripe) was wrapped in a black casing and had 2 wires coming out, and the wires that were going in had red and green and yellow. So, in my stupidity, I cut the whole wrapped piece out to try and figure out which wire went where, and how i could reconnect them and have my truck running again. Well that didn't happen. Not even close.

I started peeling the wrap off, come to find out there were 3 wires in there, and I still dont know which ones went where because I messed up the wrap and pretty much chewed it up. One of the things that is really bothering me is that there were some resistors in there which really threw me off, so i just closed the hood, cracked a beer, and here I sit, fuming and pissed at myself for potentially ruining my new to me truck. I'm not sure if this was something that came from the factory, or something the previous owner had done.

Could I possibly get a new 89 5.0 wiring harness and swap it or did i dig myself into a serious shit grave? I'm hoping i can just reconnect the wires and drive on, but i have a feeling that that isnt the case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
i'm gonna have a look at it tomorrow. i'm really hoping i can just splice it back together. the weird thing is, though, that with everything back together yesterday, nothing would work with the key on. nothing from the fuel pump, no radio, nothing. i'm a little flustered right now so please try to excuse my lack of coherent thoughts. i might just bring it to a shop and say "hey i cut wires i should not have cut, can you fix it"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
That would be a refreshing dose of honesty for any shop owner. Might even get you a break on price.

At least once a month something comes in the shop with some weird issue. After having performed some diag, come to find all types of things wrong. Mostly something a friend had done trying to help out. Nice to know those things up front.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,988 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
This is going to be a huge help. Thank you very much. I bought a tfi relocate kit from fatfoxx.com that came with all of the wires and a heat sink. I wasn't exactly sure where to put the "drain plug" ground on the distributor, so I put it where there was a screw on the distributor.

You think I'll need to go and buy resistors? I pretty much destroyed the old ones
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
i know it will be pricey, but i think my best bet would be either going to a ford dealership or finding a mechanic around here to take care of it. i don't think im competent enough to do this
 

·
Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
·
15,167 Posts
Good luck finding a Ford dealership that will have someone there capable of working on a 25 year old vehicle..My recommendation would be to find and auto electrical shop they should be able to get it sorted pretty easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
There is also a 22k resistor in that set of wires that you will need to have wired back in otherwise you will get a code 212. (Seattle's pic above shows it) My resistor recently failed and I had to get in there and solder in a new one.

check out this thread, there is some wiring help and pics of the resistor location.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303257
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
so my wires with the resistor had a red/blue one going in from the driver side fender, and 2 green/yellow going out, one to the TFI and one to the ignition coil. i have to go back and take a look but im pretty sure thats all it was. i'll have to get some soldering stuff hopefully this week, and go for it.

if i get this to work i'll be ecstatic, and never touch electronics again haha

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
yeah , when I was researching the wiring I too noticed that the colors of these wires changed from year to year.

So in that picture above on mine , the black wire is going to the computer. the red and white goes to tach. and the 2 yellow wires , one goes to the ICM the other to the negative side of the coil.

this should be an easy fix for you , just retrace all of your wires where you cut them and splice them back , if you need a new resistor a pack of 10 is like a dollar at radio shack.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
i stand corrected. there was a red/blue wire, green/yellow, and two green yellow going out. the 2 going out were the ignition control and TFI, still not 100% on the red and blue and green and yellow. however, i soldered in a new resistor, put the red/blue on one end, and green/yellow on the other end, and now the truck gets power and attempts to crank but the battery is nearly dead. i hooked up my other car via jumper cables and let it sit but to no avail. tried putting the battery from my other car in the bronco and that didnt work either, then that battery died once i put it back in my other car. shits annoying haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
small update for those interested:

i took my battery to autozone and had it tested, it was bad. got a new one, put it in and now it cranks and cranks and cranks but wont fire. i feel like it was my wiring, but does anyone think they know what it might be fore sure? i may bring it to a shop now since the truck is actually getting power and trying to start but i'm sure one of you electronic genius' know what the problem may be. i might need to switch some wires around and see whats what tomorrow, but i dont have a multimeter or and serious electronic testing tools. just pliers, visegrips, screwdrivers, and sockets
 

·
Roller rockers are gay
Joined
·
19,197 Posts
You need a multimeter for this. $20 will save you hundreds in the future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
You've posted ONE after pic. How could anyone possibly see through the interwebz and guess what it'll take to fix it
He hasn't got that far yet ,that's a pic from my 212 fix.

Dom, so normally on a tfi relocate you are only dealing with separating the tfi wires from the main harness . So what wires did you cut ? Did you only cut the tfi wires ? Or did you cut some of the wires that are in the main harness as well (the big group of wires that goes up by fuel rail ? )

You are absolutely going to need a multimeter and the correct diagrams to get this going again. Otherwise it will crank and crank all day long and you might as well just tow it to the junkyard.

If you only cut the tfi wires , I don't understand the big deal . Just splice them back (match the colors)
and that will get it running ,forget the resistors at this point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
sorry its been a while, been super busy with work.

I only cut TFI wires. green/yellow, tan/blue, red/blue. on that second diagram above, it had the green and yellow from the ignition and one from the TFI, wired together and splitting into a 22k resistor, and a 1.8k resistor. i got a 22k and 1.8k resistor, wired them up so that the red/blue went to the 1.8k, and the green and yellow to the 22k resistor.

i wasn't sure which of the red blue went to the starter relay, and which went to the tach. after the truck wouldnt start, i switched the red and blue for the other red and blue, but no luck. im gonna check fuses tomorrow afternoon, are there more fuses besides the box by the steering wheel?

i wont be able to get a multi meter till probably friday after work, lots of ranges in the coming weeks/months and they always end up being late days. i'll also look up how to use it to test wires/connections and stuff, but ive never messed with one haha. after figuring out how to check everything, i don't know where else to go. i may need to re ground the distributor? i'm never messing with electric shit again after this. i'm sure it is a simple fix and im lacking in a lot of skills. i'll only mess with sound systems and maybe lights. i really appreciate all the help i've received so far, and hope i can drop some knowledge on noobs in the future
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
alright here is where i'm at right now. this cluster of shit is where the bane of my existence is.

the two red wires are actually just the negative from the coil, and the TFI, extensions. the resistor on top is a 22kohm going to the other green/yellow. the 3 resistors add up to 1.8k, one is 1.5k and 2 are 150ohm.

then we have these two


not sure which one is the tach and which is the starter relay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Well, for those that are curious, I got the truck running yesterday. Ray Blankenship came down from Northern Georgia to help me out, he is the owner of fatfoxx.com, where I bought the kit. Super friendly and very helpful.

Turns out my connections were all pretty terrible, resistors wired wrong, tfi not grounded properly. I'm just glad I didn't fry the computer. Also, I had to get a new distributor, since my old one would barely turn with a ton of force added.

I took the truck on a 25-30 mile one way drive to DD some friends last night, and it ran with no problem. I'm excited to have her back
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top