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Hello all,

My Bronco have been having a rocky relationship lately. Days ago it left me on the side of the road, just randomly died. Brought her to the side of the road, and it would turn but not crank.
Took it to the shop, he replaced the ignition switch, module, plugs, wires, distributor. Runs good for a couple drives. Now, I’m getting a very erratic idle, and while driving it’s almost like the fuel is intermittently cutting off. Fuel pressure was tested by the shop but was supposedly fine, so we were thinking electrical issue. Does anyone have any insight? I’ll post a video
 

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Discussion Starter #2
 

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Yo Konstantinos,
On my tablet,your video appears as a pic of passenger side of the intake manifold.

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl jowens126 HVAC Control Panel info & Mikey350 tests @ Help with dtc codes and idle

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....

Ignition Control Module (ICM)
View attachment 160390
is mounted on side of distributor

MAP
View attachment 160391
is mounted of firewall, passenger side
Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.
Check the transmission fluid and engine oil level and quality. Make all necessary repairs before continuing with SELF TEST.

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual and; release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO and KOER.

A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS⚠

Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.

Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.

Idle Air Control (IAC) aka Idle Air Bypass (IAB):

➡"...bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection." by Ryan @ Fuel Injection Technical Library » Idle Air Bypass (IAB)
Read more.

The IAB can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAB to function properly. Remove the IAB and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAB, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAB needs to be replaced.


Gacknar wrote, "I can tell you one thing, if your idle did not tank when you unplugged the IAC then one of two things happened. It's not closed all the way, the idle set screw has been jacked with or you have a vacuum leak.

Whenever an IAC component is replaced or cleaned or a service affecting idle is performed, it is recommended that the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) be cleared. This provides an Idle Relearn which is crucial to achieving a smooth idle because it permits the IAC solenoid to be brought back within its normal operating range. Disconnect your battery for at least 5 minutes to clear previously learned Idle Air Trim values. Then with all accessories off, start your engine and allow it to idle for at least 15 minutes to relearn the idle strategy. You will slowly hear your idle improve so do not be overly concerned at the beginning. That is, unless you did not test and reinstalled a bad IAC...

How to Test and Clean your Idle Air Controller (IAC) by SeattleFSB @ How to Clean and Test your IAC


➡Mikey350 wrote, "I went through three IAC's before I got a good one. Send it/take it back, get a refund, buy a Motorcraft."

165191
 

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I would suggest checking your icm(ignition control module) it’s the part attached to the distributor. It might be overheating. When it cools down starts runs normal till it heats up again.
 

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You put module in your post so you might have already checked this.
 
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