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Discussion Starter #1
Pros and cons, need to move axel centreline 3-4” so 40’s clear mad dogs ... what did you do (whith pics if you have em,links to build would be good as well) for relocation of track bar,and other steering issues encountered. I’ve 8bolted my Dana44 whith 3/4 tone components from balljoint out...thinking of cage or duff arms and have a 90’ish Dana 60 to put in later... thanks.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,730 Posts
No cons IMHO.

Pros are a bit softer ride and much better flex.

Afaik, the trackbar can stay where it is.

Generally, you cut the bracket off the frame, and slide it back. Do the math, but its a triangle, with the radius arm as the long side. So if you extend the arm 12", the bracket needs to be moved back about 11". If you want to push the axle 4" forward (if I read that right) subtract that from the distance you got for moving the brackets back. So in total you'd be moving the brackets 7" back, while simultaneously pishing the axle forward.

Now, with the axle 4" farther forward, you will have to address that track bar. There might be a way to move it to the rear of the axle, so you can keep the frame mount in its factory spot. But then you'll still have to relocate the coil buckets and shock mounts, and adjust the steering.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
my thoughts where to move coil bucket forward and use forward bolt in rear bucket holes...that puts the track bar in the bucket i know someone out here has done this ...was hopping for a picture of how and what was done to move track bar...I got a grate deal on a long travel four link from rock crawler project tha went side ways... but still need trusses mounts, oh and three or four grand for shocks and that minour stuff lol thinking about Cage arms and hardwheare... any interaction with Jim and his new shop? thanks again for any input (y)(y)(y)
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
Joined
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12,730 Posts
my thoughts where to move coil bucket forward and use forward bolt in rear bucket holes...that puts the track bar in the bucket i know someone out here has done this ...was hopping for a picture of how and what was done to move track bar...I got a grate deal on a long travel four link from rock crawler project tha went side ways... but still need trusses mounts, oh and three or four grand for shocks and that minour stuff lol thinking about Cage arms and hardwheare... any interaction with Jim and his new shop? thanks again for any input (y)(y)(y)
Cage is back in business? Hadnt heard that.
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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So what I would do is make frame plates, then just move everything to where you want. Drill Tap holes in the plates and then also weld it, something like this maybe not end as soon though. All the factory bolts can be used to put them on, plus add a few extra. As a bonus this also braces the frame under the steering box. Be easy to just weld the track bar onto these. Best pic I have, box side is a copy, but with a fabbed trac bar mount that is a copy of the stock one (without upper shock mount)

This set also is L-Shaped so its supported/supporting the frame from bottom too, much like the stock coil buckets do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks CBG... thats the kind of shat im thinking. I mentioned Jim from cage, he is now Bloody Knuckle ,and is curantly doing build to order contact him [email protected] I can see the radius arms on you're rig ... did you do the reinforcement ? do you have a build link... Thanks again
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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Build link in my sig. or CrazyBRONCOguy's '78 project
The arms are James Duff pieces I had Circle S add braces to the bottom of, he is local fab shop (great work, usually cheaper then I could do it or have time to do). Likely not really needed, tons of Duff arms around and very little failures. I did it as I plan to 1 day start jumping mine a little, and I like to be a bit different (kind of build to run in sand 1st everything else 2nd). The set I have seen failed (ranger/bII arms) did so right at that joint though and I think that was also a hit that broke the knuckle and such too.

I can get pic of the other side if helpful, though I think also in that thread too. I would be wanting to add tubing to the inside of the = frame where ever you end up moving steering box to. I think the stock location has this as well. Maybe have to call borgeson and get an extra long steering shaft made once you move it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have the new borgson shaft...Playin' around yesterday,i have a real tight spot in steering...think i need new steering box .I know it leaks and has nylock on adjustment screw...if i have to relocate steering box any ways ,any sujestions for a box whith shorter sector shaft? or just pull trigger on ported red head...I remember reading about using newer ford box, but have had no luck finding the info of what it came out of...me thinks it mouted on outside of rail and used reversed piman arm...any info or links would be appreceated
 
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