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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know several people here have done this. I did search extensively and found almost nothing.
Not much of a writeup due to this being a bolt on upgrade. A special thanks to YikesBB for the idea,and Chemfrk for grabbing the part from the local Junk Yard.

I managed to bend the stock ttb steering in my 94 Bronco pretty good during the last 2 wheeling trips I went on. The bend dosn't look like much but I had to put 12 turns in my left front turn buckle and drive with the steering wheel almost upside down during the 312 mile trip back from Panamint.


My bent one next to a spare straight one.

The new (used) steering assembly came from a 1985 F250. After a quick clean up and re-grease, I removed the 3 castle nuts from the pitman arm and knuckles. Put the new steering in place, tightened the nuts and replaced the cotter pins.

It's just that easy!

The TREs don't line up perfect but they don't bind up either.
 

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did u do any reaming on the stock knuckles. this is on a ttb danna 44 in a bronco right. mines all shot so i think this would be a great idea to upgrade now
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nope, no reaming, cutting, bending, or welding........All bolt on, Not including cleaning up the new one, it took all of 15 min to do.:thumbup
 

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why didnt you do the knuckle under steering?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
why didnt you do the knuckle under steering?
I read up on it and to do it right required reaming, bigger TRE's etc. The amount of work vs. the advantage gained just isn't there for me. Besides, I bent my steering by hitting a rock with my tire in a narrow wash. The steering never came in contact with the rock.

your calling it an upgrade... do you consider the f250 links to be stronger???
They are a good bit thicker and heavier. The main pice on the stock bronco measures 1" while the F250 steering is 1 1/8" in dia. I will try to get comparrison pics tomorrow.
 

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what does it cost for all new f250 steering parts... either way the stock ttb steering blows... i cant see spending over 150 bux for all new stuff just b/c... 1/8" isnt much when it comes to solid stock which bends pretty easy anyways

whats that swing set kit cost???

i bent my ttb steering a few times by pushing the tire w/ force... it was never a direct steering hit... i dunno i dont research much for ttb anymore...and i never did anything to upgrade mine... the angles and bends in the ttb steering linkage(solid stock) make it extremely suceptable to bending with that kinda force

dc
 

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Discussion Starter #8
what does it cost for all new f250 steering parts...
:shrug
either way the stock ttb steering blows...
Granted, but seince I can't come up with anything better...
i cant see spending over 150 bux for all new stuff just b/c...
Who spent 150 bux? I got it from a junk yard.
1/8" isnt much when it comes to solid stock which bends pretty easy anyways
True, but it is better than stock.
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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well, 85 would have been a changeover year. an 85 f-350 could have a d50ttb, which is what would come in a f250, so i would say they have to be close
 

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so how is this set up doing after a few miles? how did it allign? since im gunna be adding more lift and there are plenty of the F-250 set ups at the junkyard it may be worth it to get.

also, i read that the pitman arms are a little more dropped for the F-250 and F-350...is that true? since one is pillaging the entire steering links why not grab a pitman arm for cheap.
 

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Somewhere in ~1994, the stuff on the F250 changed, and became even thicker. I ran into this when replacing the shot drag link on my 94 F250, and the newer stuff (I think my truck was built with 1993 leftovers from what we could tell) was almost a 1/4" thicker.

The driver side inner link is like 3-4" longer also.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so how is this set up doing after a few miles? how did it allign? since im gunna be adding more lift and there are plenty of the F-250 set ups at the junkyard it may be worth it to get.

also, i read that the pitman arms are a little more dropped for the F-250 and F-350...is that true? since one is pillaging the entire steering links why not grab a pitman arm for cheap.
With 2 wheeling trips seince the changeout, and beating on the TTB pretty hard, everything is still great! No alignment issues.
 

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Master Bater
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I tried this years ago, and it seemed better at first, till I started pushing the front flex more. the tie rod on drivers side is now under the drag link, and doesnt have as much misalignment as the bronco one. Frankly, I would try sleeving the stock ones.

A year or so ago, i helped broncodan build some steering links from 1.5 DOM and Chevy TRE's knuckle under. I had expected him to post pics, but he never did. Basically, we got rid of the drop pitman arm, and just built new links over the knuckles. Was WAY beefy.
 

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I ran the same set-up that Wasacop is. It definitely held up better. The drag link still bent on a rock, but that has nothing to do with being a TTB. When running a factory set-up, the best way to go is with the ambulance drag link. It has the girth of the F250 stuff, but without the bend and as I recall, it maintains the rear location on the driver's link, which eliminates the misalignment limitation.

To answer someone elses question: Swingset steering will run between $1300 and $2500, depending on what fab shop you buy it from and the options you choose. It's money well spent if you're a go fast guy. Home fabricators can build a nice set-up for under $500, unless you go with hydro assist and a race prep'd gearbox. Sounds expensive, but by the time you purchase heims, cromo tube, misaligns, grade 8 hardware, pivot bushings and cromo plate, you've unloaded the wallet. The payoff is zero bumpsteer, better tracking in the rough and no more balljoint eating, stud busting toe-in at full droop.
 

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MOOG info

Hey ya'll, I was intrigued by this idea too (After cratering both a brand new McQuay Norris tie rod end and a brand new Elgin racing drag link in one summer doing all street driving) so I got to quizzing MOOG techs about it and here's what they said:

(1) First off, according to them, the replacement part # for the Bronco, Ambulance and 2wd F250 drag link from years 1991-1997 (referred to by them and Ford as RIGHT INNER TIE ROD) is the same and it's DS-1138T.

(2) Additionally, they say that the F250 4wd drag link (DS-1069) as well as all the rest of the F250 rod linkage (Both 2wd and 4wd) does indeed have thicker bar stock and has the same stud diameter as above but a different (courser) thread style and different lengths of the rods themselves--about 1/10th of an inch in the left inner tie rod and like 9/10 of an inch in the drag link.

(3) As to whether they would bolt up in the same location, MOOG said that it was potentially possible were the longer lengths above able to be adjusted out of the mix upon installation/alignment. Their opinion was A: It might very well work but they could not reccomend doing so since the manufacturing tolerances were based on Ford's declared measurements and B: Irregardless of the bar stock size, the joints were the same size and same type and make so the danger of wallering one out (which was my specific problem in the first place) was essentially unchanged. One tech, looking at the installation blueprint on his computer seemed to feel that the F250 4wd setup had a different angle of tie rod off the knuckle when properly installed to spec so as to make the idea less than optimum for alignment.

(4) Their best guess was to go to a MOOG distributor--I'm going to my local O'reilleys--and lay out all the components side by side and make the decision from there.

(5.) The last thing I found out this week is that regardless of whether I mount F250 or Bronco linkages, Elgin Racing is being added to my list of things that suck nard due to their poor quality craftsmanship, half ass customer service and generally weak understanding of automobile steering in general. Talking to them via telephone is the equivalent of waiting for Oprah to be named Secretary of PMS.:barf

FYI: here are the part numbers for MOOG if anyone is interested. (They ain't cheap either.)

MOOG BRONCO
Right Outer Tie Rod End ES-2077RT
Left Outer Tie Rod End ES-2078LT
Right inner Tie Rod/Drag Link DS-1138T (same for meat wagon/2wd F250)
Left Inner Tie Rod DS-1017T
Right Adjusting Sleeve ES-2079S
Left Adjusting Sleeve ES-2080S

MOOG F250 4WD
Right Outer Tie Rod End ES-2727R
Left Outer Tie Rod End ES-2728L
Right inner Tie Rod/Drag Link DS-1069
Left Inner Tie Rod DS-1072
Right Adjusting Sleeve ES-279S
Left Adjusting Sleeve ES-279S (Note both sides of sleeve are the same)

One last note, MOOG tie rods and ball joints etc are made with all metal and have a powdered metal in the gusher bearing. Not a big deal until I realized that both parts above that took a dirt nap both had non-metal designs in the ball. The remorse of buying cheap parts...:doh0715: --Buzz
 

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Man of endless projects
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those outter tierod ends i wouldnt use unless you have more than a few inches of lift without a drop pitman arm. defenitly wouldnt use with the TRE flip. there angled in a way that would would make them weaker.


BTW to Buzz's post, the adjsuting sleeves are ES2079S. you forgot the 0


these are even bigger steering tie rods. no the tie rod flip or reaming is not nessesacy. it does cost more but is still quite abit stronger and doesnt have the angled TREs.
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214134
 
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