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1978 Bronco, 1996 Bronco, and way too many other Fords
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Just spit balling an idea here. I have a 91 F-350 which is my shop truck. It's basically the same as a 91 Bronco, so maybe someone has some ideas. At some point I will throw a more modern rear axle under it (sterling likely) to give it rear discs. When I am doing that, It's best to replace the master cylinder as well to keep the braking ratio correct because disc brakes need more volume than drums. Since it'll end up being a master cylinder from a super duty, why not put one in that has the pressure sensor and run a factory brake controller. I have one on my newer F-350, and it's the bees knees, especially if it's slick out. The deceleration based controllers don't always lock up if you're sliding.

The wiring is simple, except the factory controller wants to be chatty on the CAN bus. Probably to find out if antilock is modulating the brakes, and who knows what else. Does anyone know if the controller will still work if there is nothing out there for it to talk to? I absolutely do not care bout antilock. The rear antilock as most that have it on an early 90's on the truck is the same as a bronco of that vintage know and is problematic at best.

Here's the questions.
  • Will the brake controller work without having the can bus to talk to?
  • Is there another brake controller that anyone knows about that will do this?
  • Does anyone know what it talks to, so I might be able to trick it into thinking there is a truck there?
  • Does anyone have an idea how to test this beyond pulling the pins out of the connector temporarily on my late model to see if the brake controller still works?

Here's the wiring diagram for the TBC It really is this simple...
173745
 
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I have no answers for the factory brake controller for you.

I was running a Curt 51140 in my 2020 RAM pulling a travel trailer. I only installed it because the truck didn't come with a factory brake controller (long story), and I had plans to have one installed at the first opportunity they became available. It had a meltdown due to some trailer brake wiring faults.

The OEM option wasn't available yet, so I replaced it with a Tekonsha P3. That controller literally is the bees knees. It helped diagnose the trailer fault so I found it easier, and it has variable boost settings for differing road and trailer configurations. I'm not getting paid by Tekonsha for this post, but it literally has made me forget about getting an OEM controller installed when they are available. If you want to skip the CANBUS junk and just put in something that works, go with that.

I've had the good fortune to not ever have slid while towing, but there is that oh $!# lever you can always slide.
 
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