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Discussion Starter #1
Since everything I did I blatantly stole from other members on here, I didn't think it was necessary to do a step-by-step on my build. Instead I'm including pics of the finished (almost) project...if anyone has any questions ask away. Huge thanks to Project86 for his welding/fabrication skills and also to Plug Ugly for letting me use his reamer on the knuckles.

Here's a picture before:



And here's what I have into it, with costs.

D44 out of a 76 F100 - Free
4 degree JD C-bushings - Free
Stock 76 track bar - Free
Stock 76 coil buckets - Free
New ball joints - $50
JD Radius Arms - $500 used
4.88 gears - Reused from TTB
Misc Axle rebuild parts - $50
Diff cover - $75 from Bronco Graveyard
Axle u-joints - $60 Spicer from BG
Bilstein 5150 shocks - $100 used
F-350 shock towers - $35 used
Deaver 6" springs - $169 from BG
LockRight D44 locker - $240
Steering - Chevy TRE's and DOM tubing, all from PartsMike (really great customer service) $290
Misc nuts and bolts - $50
Rear shackles and bushings (not installed yet) - $90
Driveshaft lengthening - ???
Shipping charges - $190

Total build cost is right around $1900 or so, but I sold my TTB lift for $400 so I'm at about $1500. I still have some misc TTB parts and Solid axle parts left over that I might be able to sell to make up some of the cost. I started the tear down in April I believe, and just worked on it a little each weekend and bought parts along the way. Oh, my TRE's are ES2233L, ES2027L, and 2 ES2234R. DOM tubing length is 46" on the tie rod and 29" on the draglink. Pitman arm is stock. Seriously, the guys at PartsMike are awesome, they really helped me out and even reamed my pitman for free. I still need to cycle the suspension and take measurements to get my driveshaft lengthened, and I ordered longer shackles for the rear to try to even out the height difference. I'm hoping the Deavers settle a little bit since I bought them new. My track bar and draglink angles are just a smidge off; I might need to lower the track bar bracket just a tiny bit if I get too much bump steer. But after a few test drives, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.







 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to mention since its hard to tell in the pics...I mounted the track bar behind the bracket on the axle so I wouldn't have to cut the engine cross member. Once I get the drive shaft lengthened and rear shackles installed I'll take some flex pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Actually I already have Sky's shackle flip back there; I figure longer shackles are a better option than blocks. Eventually I might spring for the Deaver leaves, but until then this seems like the best option...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There are 5 bolts connecting the lower part of the bracket to the upper; 2 of those go all the way through the frame too. Then there are 2 bolts connecting the other side of the bracket to the engine cross member, where it dips down for the oil pan. All grade 8 of course. I'll try to take some better pics of the bracket, although it's pretty tight in there. I meant to take some pics before I put it in there but forgot. All the credit on that bracket goes to Project86; he's pretty handy with the welder and I'm still learning. He also did the drop in the tranny cross member for the front driveshaft.
 

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Is there coil flex/bowing, or is that an optical illusion?

What did you get for height with the 6" coils and stock buckets? (Can you measure the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender right above the tire?)

Also, what size tires are those?

I ask alot of questions. hahahaha
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you're talking about the coils bowing in, yes there is; but no more than anyone else on here. Our frames are wider than the 78/79 Broncos, so there's really no way to avoid this without moving the coil mounting points on the axle itself.

I probably have about 8-9 inches of lift from the 6 inch coils. To give you an idea, I had a 6 inch TTB lift on before and the front and rear were dead even. I still have not done anything to the rear, so you can see it definitely sits up quite a bit higher. The coils are brand new, so like I said I'm hoping they settle a bit. Center of hub to bottom of fender measures 29", but I also have a heavier bumper and winch on the front which helped a little bit in getting the front to sit lower.

Tires are 38" TSLs
 

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what did you do for the trans cross member? ive seen a lot of custom ones built because the duff brackets end up in the same spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
what did you do for the trans cross member? ive seen a lot of custom ones built because the duff brackets end up in the same spot.
That was all fabbed by Project86, who did the same to his. He cut the xmember almost all the way through and then dropped it in the spot where the driveshaft hits using 1/4 inch plate (I think). He put some gussets in there to brace it as well. I'm sure if he sees this thread he can elaborate a little more, but he's been running his setup for a couple years now with no issues. I haven't put the driveshaft in yet, but I suspect it will clear with plenty of room for droop.
 

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what did you do for the trans cross member? ive seen a lot of custom ones built because the duff brackets end up in the same spot.
There wasn't any interference between the crossmember and rad arm brackets, maybe due to the earlier year and AOD. I believe E4ODs are longer so those may be the trucks that have issues. The crossmember is just in front of the mounts and uses one bolt through the bottom, so no spacing concerns-- you can see this bolt in the pics.

I chopped out a relief on the stock member, built a cut out lower section out of 4 x 4 square tube, and braced all around it with a bunch of plate. I've run a similar setup on mine since 2007 and it's worked well.
 

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Looks good I like the upper track bar mount, I also centered the track bar over the axle. I also like those shocks I went with the same ones but put 6 of them on mine. For the coil bow I would shim under the coil cups, also get some u-bolts to lock in the coils to your buckets so there is no chance of one jumping out on you.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looks good I like the upper track bar mount, I also centered the track bar over the axle. I also like those shocks I went with the same ones but put 6 of them on mine. For the coil bow I would shim under the coil cups, also get some u-bolts to lock in the coils to your buckets so there is no chance of one jumping out on you.
Thanks B-nut, yeah I'm really liking the way the track bar mount turned out. It was an absolute necessity to tie it into the cross member for me, as my last Rubicon trip ripped the cross member completely loose from the frame at the steering box. Took a few bolts and ratchet straps to get it off the trail...that was my main inspiration to do the swap; I already had the axle and needed to get in there to weld up the cross member anyway. The combination of 300K+ miles on my truck and Rubicon trips did not sit well on the wussy stock rivets...
 

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I am sure that if you wanted to fix the coil bow You could shoot Reptilikus a PM and he will point you in the right direction on the shims, he helped me out by sending me a link and answering a few questions.
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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:thumbup
4º shims are what fixed the coil bow for me (same coil). Tilts the lower mount in towards the frame just enough to get em to stand up straight.


As for the rear- i run a hodge-podge of two stock leaf packs (basically a stock 6-leaf pack with no overload), 1" zero rate, a shackle 2" longer than stock, and im pretty much level now that the coils have broken in. But, my truck is lighter in the rear than yours is, so you might need a bit more.
 

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so did you move the axle forward at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
:thumbup
4º shims are what fixed the coil bow for me (same coil). Tilts the lower mount in towards the frame just enough to get em to stand up straight.


As for the rear- i run a hodge-podge of two stock leaf packs (basically a stock 6-leaf pack with no overload), 1" zero rate, a shackle 2" longer than stock, and im pretty much level now that the coils have broken in. But, my truck is lighter in the rear than yours is, so you might need a bit more.
Thanks for the input, I think I can fab up some shims pretty easily; as far as the shackles I got some 2.5" longer than stock; I think it's going to sit pretty close to where I want it to.

Kemical - I moved the buckets forward to the tabs on the frame like most everyone else does. I think that's an inch or so forward...
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
A little update; I installed the new 7 inch shackles from RuffStuff and it helped level it out a bit. It's still not perfect, but after a few wheeling trips I may be able to get some settling from the coils. If not, new leaves will be in my future. I still need to weld a brace between the shackles for stability before I hit the trail; but for now at least it looks better. Haven't had time to flex it out yet or get my front driveshaft lengthened, but as soon as I do I'll add more pics...



 
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