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With a layer of plastic, no water will get in. Until it does. Then it will never get out.

When I pulled my carpet out, the liner was damp. Not sure if it was condensation or the cleaning that I'd been doing over the prior weeks.

Might want to consider Tyvek / Home Wrap. Liquid water doesn't go through, but water vapor does. In houses, it's put next to the insulation, either on the interior side or exterior side depending on whether you live somewhere warm or cold. The idea is to limit the amount of moisture that can get through in the first place, but if it DOES get through, it can get back out again.




I found some old rubber sheets that I'm going to use on my floor (either above or below carpet or a hard floor). They should kick ass for sound deadening. The roll of 1/16" thick sheet that should be enough to cover 1/3 of the bed probably weighs 10+ pounds. And they have some type of harder-than-normal-rubber surface on the top side that would be great for throwing equipment & dogs onto. I'll probably leave it on top / removable so it doesn't become a moisture-trapper and to keep the floor clean.
 

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Also, I'd consider that natural fibers tend to hold moisture a lot better than artificial ones. If you're going to get drenched in a rainstorm on a cold day, would you rather be wearing a nylon shirt or cotton?

From the factory, the carpet liner had a piece of cardboard glued to it :unsure:. It was damp. Giant water catcher.

So I'd check whatever your insulation is made out of. Cheap insulation probably makes use of recycled fibers including cotton and paper.



That site has a good idea. Want to remove condensation in fiberglass insulation in a house? Remove the fiberglass. Replace with spray foam.

I don't know, I think some amount of water is inevitable. Adding any plastic or vapor barrier seems as likely to do harm as good.

Painting or coating the metal itself is the best way to prevent corrosion by far.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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The carpet pad is going to hold the most moisture, being very sponge like. It held water in my van for over a year. It's also going to be the least insulative. Something with a much more open cellular construction will not only insulate better, but also drain better.

It is a proven fact that the air inside properly installed insulation acts as insulation. That's why you use certain thicknesses and dont compress it down.
 

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Agreed with the radiant barrier insulation from home depot. I wrapped all of my hvac ducting with it while the dash was out. Blower motor is almost silent now.
I hate loud AC air and this is a terrific idea. Thanks!
 

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I would just be worried about it trapping moisture though? My factory insulation fell out in damp clumps once I removed the panels. Would yall do rhino line and then add that on top?


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I used POR15 on the entire tub. Then applied adhesive sound deadener. Water isn't getting under it. Under normal conditions, you shouldn't typically get water under the rear panels. If you're driving with your top off a lot, why bother trying to insulate?

Under the rear carpet, I used harbor freight antifatigue mats that interlock together. 2 packs cost $20 and was plenty to cover the rear I went over the seams with aluminum duct tape and then carpet went over everything with no jute padding. Gives plenty of padding in the rear without the risk of having damp jute against anything.
 

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I hate loud AC air and this is a terrific idea. Thanks!
Yeah I sealed all the seams with foil tape then wrapped all the ducts. It works really well for noise. I had pictures but lost them when my old phone died ugh
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Can u put that noico red self adhesive in the tailgate? Does it help at all with sound or just a waste?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'm sure that if you dropped the tailgate, removed the window you could. I thought of that, too. The stuff is tacky so an extra set of hands would help. I did the inside of the panel. I think everything helps. I'm gonna drive mine around this weekend so I'll have a better feel for the sound in general. I had no rear carpet at all so with the noice, the thicker carpet with the mas backing I would think it should make a difference.
 

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I have no carpet anywhere in mine. In the back I just have a rubber pickup bed mat, trimmed to fit all the way under the rear seat. It cuts quite a bit of noise out.
 

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I used form backed, peel and stick, duct insulation in the back of my 93 when I first got it. Put the carpeting right on top without issue. Made a world of difference in the sound level back there.
 

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I'm sure that if you dropped the tailgate, removed the window you could. I thought of that, too. The stuff is tacky so an extra set of hands would help. I did the inside of the panel. I think everything helps. I'm gonna drive mine around this weekend so I'll have a better feel for the sound in general. I had no rear carpet at all so with the noice, the thicker carpet with the mas backing I would think it should make a difference.
Why remove the window? You can fully extend the window without physically removing it. You can then reach behind the regulator and apply dynomat or whatever deadener you prefer
 

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Yes, I can do that in my '78 but not sure about later years.
You just have to open the tailgate then close the left hand side latch. After doing that, the window will operate. I know some people support the glass when it's out all the way. It seems pretty strong to me. I have an old piece of tailgate glass that has been sitting in the dirt for a few years getting walked on and it still hasn't broken
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8/MAF/E4OD/6" lift/4.56's/33x12.5x15
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Tailgate's are generally the same across generations, with a few small external changes but as I recall, most internals can be swapped between generations with no problems.

You may not have to support the glass if you're at full extension for a short time BUT, I don't care if someone has gotten away with jumping up and down on one or not... be careful. Many years ago, I was installing a replacement with my brothers help.... he was leaning his hip against one side and I did the same on the opposite. Very little pressure and we aren't big guys... anyway, under the right (or wrong) pressure, that glass literally exploded into thousands of tiny pieces. It's not delicate like a flower or anything but the right amount of pressure in the wrong areas and you'll find yourself cleaning up lots of shattered glass too.

It's really not that big of a deal to just remove the glass completely so you can take your time working on the tailgate without concern for the glass. It's also a lot easier to work on the gate from different angles that it takes, sometimes. I was repairing a tailgate torsion bar bracket that had rusted out on my last '90 FSB and did so myself. Not a big deal.

 

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Discussion Starter #37
This wraps up my current major project I've been working on for the last 2 months. It started in November with recoating the top(I can't find that thead so I'll add here in the "Today" thread. In addition to the top, new seals for the top and side windows I added sound deadening insulation to the entire bed area, plus the fiberglass insulation. I also installed new carpet in the back from ACC in their excelsior model with the mas backing. I'm very please with that and will make a separate post with that experience. So I drove it about 50 miles with is all buttoned up today and it is significantly quieter. I have mud terrain tires so I still get that noise, especially from the front but it is much quieter. Can't wait to do the front carpet, etc. My next project is to paint and install the doors and fenders I have over the next few months but I've got a number of little things to do that I'll post.
 

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