Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Is FIREGUY50 still in business I would like to order the EGR Eliminator II kit and 3g conversion kit. If anyone has his current contact info I would greatly appreciate the info.

Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
36,694 Posts
oh FFS Steve... just tell the poor bastard.

Ryan aka: Fireguy50 went AWOL on his business and the board a long, long time ago.
he was a great guy and an awesome member but near the end, he just started slipping up in his business, badly. While I have no real idea what happened with him... I always assumed he had some health issues that came up and took him away from us.
Despite some of the bad deals he had at the end... I will always remember the guy who was here, helping out anyone and everyone and making some seriously top-rated electrical goods for our rigs.

Anyway... he's long gone and nobody seems to have a clue what, where or why.

Premium Member
3,947 Posts
You could contact Left Eye Blind Racing on here he does the 3g stuff..

Super Moderator
26,098 Posts
yo e,
You have an 87 5.8?

Here is an article by reptillikus on Ryan's EGR Eliminator. II kit & EGR Block Off Plate & other info;

Here is Ryan's archived site;

and the Elim Kit
"...Remove the EGR for a cleaner look and cooler intake air. The EGR system adds heat and carbon deposits to the intake manifold. EGR Valve Position Sensor Eliminators send a 0.50volt CLOSED EGR signal to the computer. The computer then knows the EGR is permanently closed. Keeps the annoying CHECK ENGINE light OFF, and more importantly keeps the engine running smoothly. Guaranteed to work on any 1986-93 5.0L Mustang! Also works on most 1986-95 Ford that uses the Light Gray EGR valve position sensor; which has a closed reading of 0.24 – 0.67 volts. Without this the computer will assume the EGR is stuck open when removed, causing a rough running engine. We can't guarantee these will work on every 1986-95 Ford, but the only other option is a custom chip for the computer, which typically costs $350 or more. While the only option for 1996 and newer Fords is a custom tuned chip for the computer.

Made with original Ford parts that plug into your stock wiring harness EGR Position Sensor connector under the hood..." see pics

Download the Original EGR Eliminator Installation Manual
Here is narrative for posterity;
"Disconnect EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP), and inspect the harness connector. Make
sure it’s free of corrosion and still has dielectric grease on the terminals.
Plug the Eliminator into the EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) harness connector.
Zip tie the eliminator to the engine to protect it from vibration.
This product only eliminates the EGR electrically. Please take the time to remove and cap off vacuum lines. If you are leaving the EGR valve on the intake confirm that it is fully closed. A leaky EGR will cause more engine problems. It’s best to remove the EGR spacer, or put a block off plate over the opening.
When performing computer Self-Test after installing this kit it is normal to get code:33 / 332 EGR valve opening not detected.
The computer is acknowledging that the EGR is permanently closed. This is your desired
result. However if you get the following codes:
31 / 327 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts
32 / 328 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts
34 / 334 - EVP circuit failed above the closed EGR limit of 0.67 volts
35 / 337 - EVP circuit failed above the open EGR limit of 4.81 volts
Check your connection again; make sure there is no resistance in the harness.
NOTE: This device is not intended for pollution controlled vehicles. Local, State, and Federal laws may prohibit the removal or disabling any emission control device on any emission applicable vehicle."
Ryan wrote here once in response to one of the Codes "...Check your connection again; make sure there is no resistance in the harness..."

EGR Do it yourself MIL Eliminator;

"...After destroying the threads on the EGR pipe and spending multiple hours trying to repair it, I conceded to defeat and removed the EGR valve. I rather fabricate my own parts than buy them so I decided to build a EGR eliminator. I tried the car with the EGR unplugged, and I got a check engine light. I expected that. I found a diagram on this website for an eliminator. I built it and it did not work on an SN95. I got a check engine light after a couple of hard pulls. I built my own with a different set of resistors and it works fine. Once again this may only apply to 94 and 95's. Attached is the diagram. Remember that you can stack resistors to achive proper impedance. All resistors are 1/2 watt carbon-film with a 5% tolerance. You can build this for about $10 from Radio Shack. That includes as small enclosure that you can mount on the firewall. Everything is copyrighted. Send me $100 and you can copy and build it...You will need to go to radio shack and purchase 3 resistors, 2- 3.9k ohm 1/2 watt resistor and 1- 390 ohm 1/2 watt resistor.

Use the attached diagram, and solder the resistors as shown.
by bezerk1

To assist in the EEC IV connector work;
EEC IV Connector Pin Depiction Pic by Ryan M (Fireguy50)

and LEGEND by Ryan M (Fireguy50)

More former products;
Actuator Eliminator Resistor; 75 ohm 3watt Resistor Used to keep the check engine light OFF when removing EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids

I'll post for now & ADD MORE INFO LATER
1 - 5 of 5 Posts