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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well guys, my current 8.8 under my truck is making some howling noises and I don't like it not one bit.

Some history on it as I wasn't a member here when I did the first repairs to it 2 years ago. My spider's blew apart in Nov of '07. I was on my way up north to go hunting and my speedo started to bounce, first sign. Nothing abnormal other than the speedo bouncing. 2 weeks later, it wasn't good. My tires seemed "LOCKED" when turning corners. Opened it up to find chunks of gears. I replaced the spiders, clutches, axle bearings, axle seals, and the passenger axle shaft as it was pitted. The tone ring was damaged, but I didn't know enough about taking out the carrier so I left it be.

Jan 01, 2009, I opened it back up to change out the tone ring to fix my bouncing speedo. Went pretty smoothly. I follow directions from steve83's post in this thread.

Everything was fine until about 3 months ago, my speedo started to flutter again. :doh0715: And a few weeks ago, I took the top off, and I could hear my rear axle making noises. Now I'm getting a little leary of driving except for going to work. It's getting loud.

So, a few months ago, I sold a good rear axle I had out of a parts truck to another member on here (sewiv), and installed it for him. Sandy left me his bad axle. So now I have one to work with so my truck isn't down and out while I try to figure out what the hell I'm doing. I ordered a master kit from vendor ericautoparts, with a slightly used (says 7 miles and looks it too) ring and pinion 3.55. Parts came in great packaging and I'm ready to start.

I'm going to need help. Yes me, that's what I said. Never have I ventured into the lands of a axle build this deep. I've done EVERYTHING else, but not this. So I'm ready to learn.

I've gotten a couple of great links from jopes and FE Bronco and these are the links I've got.

FE Bronco's link he gave me: http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/5ohcpa/cpa5ohtech001.htm

jopes link he gave me: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billa...Ring and Pinion installation instructions.pdf

So I've been schooling myself to do this but I'm still nervous.

Now I'm getting started. First thing I did was take apart the complete housing I have.



Here is the problem of this axle I'm rebuilding. Notice the pinion bearing. It came out just like that.



Next step was to take it to the car wash and give it a good hosing. I want to do this as fresh as possible, as my last repair had metal in it and only thing I could do was to run a magnet up and down the tubes to try and get all the metal out. Which lasted almost 2 years.



I've got the new parts....



and I forgot to take a picture of the new bearings and shims but got those as well.

I've got a press to press these bearings on/off.....



Now this carrier that's in this axle is a LS carrier, but it is different than the one that's in my current one. This one you can see the clutches on the side.



And although I don't have a picture of my current carrier, it's clutches are encased where you can't see them. I'll get a picture of this later.

So last night I pounded out the pinion races in the housing and install the new ones as well. I pressed off the old pinion bearing to get to the shims, to put on the new pinion gear. They say start with that for measuring I guess. I also went to Harbor Frieght to get a gear puller to pull the bearings off the carrier as there's no way to do this with the press. So in a little bit, when the boy takes a nap, I'm going back out to remove the carrier bearings and will install the new ring gear and new bearings.

Now what I see thats going to be a pain in the a$$ is figuring out which shims to use. Because the shims go behind the bearing, I'll have to keep pulling the bearings on/off to add or delete shims.

I'll have more pictures in a bit and could use all the helpful knowledge on this forum. Let's do this together :thumbup
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Well THERE'S your problem. :rofl: It's not so scary once you've got the whole thing apart, is it? Don't worry yourself too much over pre-load, shimming, and all that other shit. Once you've got your hands on it, start to see how and why it works, you'll figger it out easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well THERE'S your problem. :rofl: It's not so scary once you've got the whole thing apart, is it? Don't worry yourself too much over pre-load, shimming, and all that other shit. Once you've got your hands on it, start to see how and why it works, you'll figger it out easily.
Well, I don't think that's the problem in my current axle, that was sewiv's problem in his as this is his housing that came out from his truck. He had so much slop and play in his pinion, I have NONE. I believe, my lead foot and heavy take offs, have worn out my gears maybe causing them to be noisy, or the metal from 2 years ago has worn out my carrier bearings. :shrug I don't drive my truck like a granny :rofl:
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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I hear ya, man. I'm surprised my rear leaf springs don't look like the letter S yet. :toothless

Yeah, I saw that wasn't your current axle. I was facetiously quoting Adam Savage. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
if you can slavage an old pinion bearing or buy one extra, you can remove some material from the inside to make a "set up" bearing. one that slips on and off is a great thing to have. i made them for dana 44 cases too.
I've read this before, and probably will go and see about purchasing another just to make it easier. But I'm going to work with what I got at the moment. I have the press, so there isn't too much issue except time consuming pressing on and off the bearing.
 

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Welcome to the world of axle rebuilding. I did a complete 8.8 rebuild (bearings/races/seals/gears/LSD clutches) on the wife's '97 Mustang GT a few years back. The pinion bearing was shot in it too. As I recall it took two tries to get the pinion depth right. I started with the original thickness shims from the old 2.73 gearset. I then had to add another .007" on the new 3.73 gears, then the pattern looked good. One of the hardest things to do in my home garage, and without air tools, was getting the crush sleeve to start "crushing". I cut a 3 foot piece of angle iron to attach to the yoke on the pinion gear. Then I used a 2 foot breaker bar with another 3 foot piece of pipe on the pinion nut. It took a few tugs, but I finally felt the sleeve start to give. From there it was a matter of using my inch/lbs. torque wrench to get the pinion preload set. Using an alternating pattern of breaker bar/angle iron then inch/lb. torque wrench I was able to dial in the preload into spec.

This link from Yukon Gear has a great write-up for how to install gears and how to use the gear pattern for determining proper setup:

http://www.yukongear.com/Downloads/Technical_Help/Installation_Kit_Instructions.pdf



It's now been 5 years and another 70k miles later, it still runs like a champ!

Randy
 

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I've read this before, and probably will go and see about purchasing another just to make it easier. But I'm going to work with what I got at the moment. I have the press, so there isn't too much issue except time consuming pressing on and off the bearing.
i also have a press but sometimes the bearing splitter likes to ruin the bearing cage if it slips a bit. this happened one too many times to me :doh0715: so i went with the setup bearings.:thumbup
 

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the 8.8's are pretty easy. if his old gears are 3.55's as well there is a 99.9% chance that it will use the original pinion shim. ford gears have a very close tolerance to one another and rarely need much of a diff in the pinion shim unless your changing ratio's drastically. if you havent go to harbor and get a ****etic base and dial indicator for setting the backlash. .008-.012 is what ford rec. and ive had ones .002-.003 tight or loose and never had a issue. i'd honestly say the worst part is removing/installing the pinion bearings races but since you have it out from the truck it will be alot easier to do. g/l and just take your time
 

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Cleaning the trails
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I swapped to 4.10's earlier this year. Since they were Ford gears, they practically dropped in with the existing 3.55 shims. I bought the cheap bearing from Napa to make a set up bearing. Took a barrel sander to the inside of the bearing and ground it just enough to slide over the pinion. Once I had the preload , pinion depth and backlash set, pressed on the good one. If you were closer, you could use it, but I think it was less than $10. It is the off brand one they carry.

Here's a good video on setting preload. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8APYO2sZyJU

Once you have that done you are there. 86xlnotch is right about Ford having close tolerances. I had two axles to work with and when I found the first one had a bent tube, when I went to the second axle, the pinion and carrier dropped right in with no other shimming required.

Good luck, take your time and it will work. If you are having problems getting the races off of the carrier ( and the bearing sleeve kit is not cheap) I used a Dremel with the reinforced cutting wheel to cut a groove in it after removing the cage and bearings. Once you get it cut about half the depth, you can use a cold chisel to split it and it will fall right off. You can now use that race to press on the new ones. With the break in it, it will not press onto the carrier when setting the bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, I've got the pinion races installed. I've got the bearing and stock shims pressed on the pinion. I've got the pinion set in with preload. Now I'm trying like hell to remove the carrier bearings. Been fighting one for well over and hour and already broke one cheap a$$ harbor freight two jaw puller. It doesn't want to budge. I think I'm going to need to get a better, stronger jaw puller to get these carrier bearings off. I keep trying to think of a way to rig up my press, but in the links it shows exactly how I'm trying to remove them. This aint getting done fast or tonight. *sigh*
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Now I'm trying like hell to remove the carrier bearings. Been fighting one for well over and hour and already broke one cheap a$$ harbor freight two jaw puller. It doesn't want to budge. I think I'm going to need to get a better, stronger jaw puller to get these carrier bearings off. I keep trying to think of a way to rig up my press, but in the links it shows exactly how I'm trying to remove them. This aint getting done fast or tonight. *sigh*
Well this was the way I started to try and remove these PITA carrier bearings, and it just wasn't enough force. (Picture swiped from one of those links above.)



So my buddy and I, started to think about an easier way...........


Tada!!!!! I got the bearings off with the press. We used some brain power to rig up the press. The bearing seperator, a come along, torch, PB Blaster, and a 2x4. It did the trick!!!










But since we spent 2 hours trying to remove bearings, we figured it was time to come in and let the carrier cool down from all the heat we put on the bearings. I'll press the new bearings tomorrow (today). What a late night for some rookies :haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Scott good thread. After you are completed, could you make make a write up for the write up section?
Maybe...........I'll see what I can do. I'm not the pro at this by any means.

I plan on rebuilding my current axle as well so I have a spare. Only if this goes ok :rofl:
 

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Cleaning the trails
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Well, I've got the pinion races installed. I've got the bearing and stock shims pressed on the pinion. I've got the pinion set in with preload. Now I'm trying like hell to remove the carrier bearings. Been fighting one for well over and hour and already broke one cheap a$$ harbor freight two jaw puller. It doesn't want to budge. I think I'm going to need to get a better, stronger jaw puller to get these carrier bearings off. I keep trying to think of a way to rig up my press, but in the links it shows exactly how I'm trying to remove them. This aint getting done fast or tonight. *sigh*
This is where I used the Dremel and a cutting wheel. It took about 5 minutes for each race. You dont have to cut all the way through so no damage to the carrier. There is so much tension, that it may even break on its own once you get a groove deep enough.
 

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a note to the last post, cut the grooves, and use a cold chisel, it should shatter the old bearing at the groove. works every time for me!!!

ive had to rebuild my 8.8 once now as well, and installed a locker while i was at it with fresh bearings, axle shafts, carrier, seals and shims. not too hard once you get used to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I can't devote 100% of my time to get this done because I have kids, and one is too young to be roaming the house by himself.

But I did manage to press on the new carrier bearings, and I've got the ring gear on, loctited and torqued to 85 ft lbs. I've also got it sitting in place. I tried to place the shims that came out back in, but it just didn't want to slide in.

So I measured the left shim and got .270, so I grabbed up some shims and got a few that measures .255 and was able to drop the carrier back into place.

So, my guesses are that I need to retorque the carrier back into place, and adjust the preload on the pinion to start checking wear patterns? :shrug

I've been bouncing back and forth between this, my uncles truck, and keeping an eye on my kids.

I do have a magnectic base and dial indicator, so I'll be setting that up to check backlash as well. A job that would only take a few hours by a pro, is going to take days with me doing it :haha
 
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