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Hi guys...........I'm fixing the power door locks on my '91 and wondering if anyone has any tips on this. It looks like a royal pain to get in there to work on them.

Actually, the actuators work but they don't work very well. I have the door panel off and I can see the actuators. It appears that they have become dislodged from the plastic bracket they attach to. I'm not sure why this has happened as the brackets look to be ok and not broken. From what I can tell, the bracket openings that hold the rubber grommets attached to the actuators, are facing upwards. Is this correct? I'm not sure but I think I read somwhere that the bracket openings are supposed to be facing downward. Maybe the previous owner replaced them and put them in upside down? If so, could this account for the the actuator becoming disonnected from the bracket. Is this a problem and if so, how do I fix it?

Thanks..........

Stuart D.
 

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I have a doorlock issue on my '93 EB as well. I recently had my door panels off to replace both sideview mirrors. When I got everything back together, the mirrors and windows work, but the door locks do not. I tried replacing the fuse, but still nothing. I pulled the switch panels from the door and looked at the wires/connections, but everything looks ok.

Anyone have any ideas? How should I trouble shoot this?
 

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The actuator rod itself looks like a cork screw twirling up/down when activated and may only need lubrication, over time with mositure they can rust or it needs to be replaced, usually they're torque pin riveted to the sheetmetal and have to be drilled out.

The last time I checked actuator prices they were running around $95.00 each for new ones so I just took mine out and now manually lock/unlock with the key....really NBD.....JY's maybe, but that could be hit or miss you know....?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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The actuator rod itself looks like a cork screw twirling up/down when activated and may only need lubrication, over time with mositure they can rust or it needs to be replaced, usually they're torque pin riveted to the sheetmetal and have to be drilled out.

The last time I checked actuator prices they were running around $95.00 each for new ones so I just took mine out and now manually lock/unlock with the key....really NBD.....JY's maybe, but that could be hit or miss you know....?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
They can be a pain, but you can find non-motorcraft ones for less then $95. My biggest problem, is the rivet is a quarter inch and a standard rivet gun won't work. You have to go to HF and pick a big one up that you'll never use again, or go to a body shop on lunch hour and pay a guy $10-20 to use their's.
 

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Off the top of my head is it possible to bolt an actuator to the sheetmetal like we do with power window motors.....?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Off the top of my head is it possible to bolt an actuator to the sheetmetal like we do with power window motors.....?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
I've read about some people trying that, but the actuator bolts at the bottom, and I wasn't able to get a lock nut down there, hold the actuator and insert the screw from the outside. Pop rivet really is the best way.
 

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Here's how I fixed mine five years ago, it's not much of a how-to, but all you need is a 1/4x20 "T" nut (get from hardware store), a short 1/4x20 bolt (or screw), some loctight and some JB Weld epoxy.



1. Pull the actuator bracket out, drill out the rivet stub if it didn't fall out, flatten two of the three points on the "T" nut, put one of the points through the hole in the bracket. I don't think the center hole of the bracket needs to be drilled out, but it might, and the hole in the door needs to be large enough for the 1/4x20 bolt to go through.
2. Epoxy the "T" nut to the bracket (wait for it to harden)
3. Clip the bracket back on the actuator
4. Reinstall the actuator
5. Put some Loctight on the bolt and screw it together.

Look at the pictures:


http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895480_1


http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895481_1


http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895482_1

Good Luck
 

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I dove a little further into my door lock issue, and it seems that my problem is electrical. The power door lock switch on the driver's side does not work at all - no sound, no motion, nothing. On the passenger's side, when I press the unlock button, nothing happens. However, when I press the lock side of the switch, both door locks lock just as they should. I then have to use the key to get either door unlocked.

Anyone have any ideas on this? It all started when I removed and reinstalled my door panels to replace both side view mirrors. I pulled the door switch panels and looked at the wires, and everything looks okay to the naked eye. I'm at a loss of where to start looking at this point. It seems like it has to be an electrical problem, since the doors will lock when I press the passenger lock button. But otherwise, nothing works. Window and mirror controls all work perfectly.

Any help or ideas on this would be greatly appreciated. Anyone have a schematic of the wiring for the door switch panels?

Thanks!
 

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Do you have the Remote Keyless Entry option? If so, then the RKE may be screwed up, and the schematic for that is different. LMK, I have the schematic for the RKE interface for the door locks, but I won't be able to scan them until later today.
 

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I do not have the RKE system, just the standard power door locks. However, for some reason, they started working just fine today. In frustration, I just started rocking the driver's door switch back and forth mouthing obscenities under my breath. Suddenly, at one point the door locks just started working. Not sure what happened. I played with all of the switches in both door for a while, and everything works. I checked them again this evening, and they are still working. I must have a loose wire or bad contact somewhere in the harness or switch console.

I guess it just goes to show you that harsh language and persistence can sometimes solve your problems.

Thanks everyone for your help and advice. Thanks for the electrical schematics!!
 

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To hold mine in I used a speednut around the bracket and bolted it in.


On the 92-96 models the lock actuators have a metal bracket and they don't have a corckscrew action to them.
 
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