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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Flex-A-Lite Electric Cooling Fan Model #295
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/27inch-electric.html

Manufactures Installation Instructions
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/295-99295.pdf

Available at your local auto parts store or online.

My Installation
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/641/33949#content

Still to do are the override switches. Was thinking maybe a 4 position rotary switch, Off, Auto, Low, High. You didn't know you could do low (60%) override did you? Well you can. Just use the negative A/C compressor input.

Not sure about the through radiator core temp probe. If it works out okay I'll probably leave it be. Otherwise will fit up a direct coolant contact temp sensor/sending unit. One thought I've had was the possibility of sticking the probe inside the radiator hose. But not sure 1) if a leak proof seal could be made around the wires. 2) if the probe can stand up to being submerged in anti-freeze.

I would much welcome discussion on temp probe options, possibilities, and experiences. Especially in regard to how well the through radiator core probe works and its dependability, and direct coolant contact possibilities with the manufacture supplied temp probe or other sending unit.

Update #1
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showpost.php?p=925836&postcount=6

Update #2
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showpost.php?p=947620&postcount=11
 

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I did a Taurus fan conversion with the Hayden control, which uses a radiator probe, and it's been working just fine for a little over a year now.
 

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cool deal man. i heard some horror stories of the fan control box that is mounted to the fan burning up. you might want to look into that. but all in all cool ass write up
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the complement guys.

What kind of horror stories? Any write ups about them? Causes and resolutions?

Cool to hear the radiator probe working good a year for you. I’m still a little skeptical of that thing though. Guess time will tell. That’s my biggest concern with this setup. If that radiator probe works dependably I think I’ll probably like the electric fans. But temperature sensing is a critical piece in this puzzle so that thing could be the make or break. The devil is in the details ya know. But I’ve conjured up a couple ideas for trying it inside the return hose if need be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As I figured the radiator temperature probe is the deal breaker for this electric fan conversion. Installation per manufactures instructions results in several issues.

1) Low speed driving, 2 – 15 MPH or so, provides enough air flow to keep the probe cool and prevent the fans from turning on even though there is not enough air flow to keep the engine from over heating. On a ~70 degree day.

2) Moderate speed driving, 20 – 30 MPH, pulling the grade of an ordinary logging road, provides enough air flow to keep the probe cool and prevent the fans from turning on even though there is not enough air flow to keep the engine from over heating. On a ~70 degree day.

3) Coolant exiting the radiator and cooling the transmission fluid can exceed healthy temperature for the transmission before the fans are activated.

For some additional details see the negative review posted in “Products and Vendor Reviews”
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70808
 

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I have had some problems with the VSC getting too hot mounted on the shroud like the instructions show. It has melted my ground wire and the positive wire right past the fuse. others have said the same thing and recomended using other control units. I just switched mine to being a plain relay for now so it runs constantly (it's over a hundred degrees here and my a/c is always on) until i can get a better control unit and mount it over by the battery out of the heat of the rad hose. they also show the A/C hook ups as optional, they are not if you use your A/C it won't get cold until your coolant get hot enough to turn on the fan. other than putting a different fan controler and moving it away from the fan and rad hoses I'm also going to put a small universal fan on the trans cooler that will run all the time or get a trans temp sensor to control that one as well to solve the trans cooling problems. for now the always on relay option I'm using is perfect since it is so hot here and the A/C is always working but i want to make it work right by the time it starts to cool off. the only other thing i would recoommend is going to a bigger alt. mine can't keep up with the combination of the fan, A/C, amps, headlights and other electronics.
hope this helps anyone else that has done or is planing on doing this fan conversion.
Jason
 

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did you put the rubber thingy over the end of the probe? Sorry I have not read the write up yet to see. I just bought one and have not installed it yet. I'd like to know how or if you resolve this issue. seems like a pretty simple sensor I sure wouldn't try to poke it into the coolant it could totally come "unglued" not to mention possibility of leaks. there are screw in temp sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
broncobronco said:
did you put the rubber thingy over the end of the probe? Sorry I have not read the write up yet to see. I just bought one and have not installed it yet. I'd like to know how or if you resolve this issue. seems like a pretty simple sensor I sure wouldn't try to poke it into the coolant it could totally come "unglued" not to mention possibility of leaks. there are screw in temp sensors.
Yes the little "rubber thingy" is over the end of the probe, as per manufactures installation instructions. Problem with a screw in temp sensors is not only where to put it, but finding one with the right specs to work with the Flex-A-Lite controller.
 

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dang supermotors is still down. i use a temp probe that zip ties to the rear of the raditor not thru it. this controls a continuse duty relay. at 1/2 way up the temp scale i hear the fan go on and now issues there, but the fan i got from the junk yard only has one speed working it seems like low. so i swap another on in this weekend. i got another fan and low is the same as min is running and high is way faster than high on my installed one. (i doing 3 other swaps at the same time all with the continues relay 80 amp all with the probe that lays across the rear of the raditor. i wish super motors was up. if it comes back look in other projects and gmc van you can see my install pics....mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OwlStu said:
As I figured the radiator temperature probe is the deal breaker for this electric fan conversion. Installation per manufactures instructions results in several issues.

1) Low speed driving, 2 – 15 MPH or so, provides enough air flow to keep the probe cool and prevent the fans from turning on even though there is not enough air flow to keep the engine from over heating. On a ~70 degree day.

2) Moderate speed driving, 20 – 30 MPH, pulling the grade of an ordinary logging road, provides enough air flow to keep the probe cool and prevent the fans from turning on even though there is not enough air flow to keep the engine from over heating. On a ~70 degree day.

3) Coolant exiting the radiator and cooling the transmission fluid can exceed healthy temperature for the transmission before the fans are activated.

For some additional details see the negative review posted in “Products and Vendor Reviews”
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70808

Time for an Update

Trial Solution
I’ve place the probe inside the radiator discharge hose and adjusted the controller to activate the fans at the lowest temperature, 160 degrees according manufactures documentation.

This allows the electric fan system to function more like the factory belt driven clutch fan by keeping the temperature of the coolant being discharged from the radiator low enough to cool transmission fluid and allow the thermostat to maintain engine temperature by regulating coolant flow.

Observed Results
Highway driving in hot weather the fans will run some, but then I’d probably have the A/C on anyway.

Slow speed trail riding the fans come on dependably when the coolant being discharged from the radiator rises above the set point.

Probe Mounting Description
Before placing the probe in the radiator discharge hose I folded the wires over the probe and clamped a short piece of hose on the end the wires come out of. I filled the rubber hose with RTV black, inserted a bolt and clamped it down. Attached to the bolt and secured with a nut is a piece of wire clothes hanger about 6 inches long. End of the clothes hanger is pushed into the anti-collapse wire in the lower radiator hose. Reasoning for this is I don’t want to trust those two little wires to hold the probe. If it where to come loose it could end up in the water pump and that would not be good. The rubber hose and RTV is an attempt to protect the probe internals from anti-freeze.

Issues
Preventing coolant leak around probe wires going into the radiator hose. Figured this would be an issue but that’s okay for trial. I have an idea for placing a small self stick inner tube patch on the radiator hose fitting so when clamped down it will create a seal around the wires.

The small piece of hose and clamps on the probe take up space in the hose, reducing its flow capacity.

Requesting Your Ideas
Would like to find a better, less redneck, more permanent method and location for mounting the temperature probe. Perhaps in the radiator tank itself near the discharge port.

To get your creative juices flowing I’ve been thinking maybe a compression fitting in the radiator tank. Potential problems with this?

Related Side Note
Recently added a B&M transmission oil cooler.
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/641/50168
 
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