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OUT OF BUSINESS / M.I.A.
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10,875 Posts
I think the easiest thing is big washer or have one made.
Don't use one of those thin washers, 1/8" think is minimum.

I don't think you need to worry about safty, all your weight is stoped by the seat belt mounts in a crash. Might want to check them bolts / holes too :)
 

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FSB warrior
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6,118 Posts
sheet metal and a welder or sheet metal liquid nails and poprivets/sheet metal screws. Drill a hole threw a couple of layers of that and throw a grade 5 nut and bolt threw it, better then new.
 

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Cadillac of Men
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3,787 Posts
i think fireguy's method would be the easiest and almost as good as welding in a new piece. if you put large (enough to cover the open seam by at least 1/2") washers on either side of the floor, and then a new bolt thru, it will spread out the stress from the seats much better than just the bolt. You could primer the seam so that it doesnt start rusting. This should stop further damage, and in the future if you have the chance, have it a new floorpan welded in.
 

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Registered
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1,023 Posts
What model year is this? Ford added a reinforcement plate to the floorboards in early 90 to address this problem. Unfortunately, it only does a halfway decent job of stopping the problem. Mine failed when the captive nut broke loose from the reinforcement plate.

Adding a washer helps, but it doesn't stop the problem. The pan still flexes around the bolt, and the tear still gets bigger (as much from body flex as anything else).

Remove the seat, drill out the crack, weld it up. Add a reinforcement plate and washers to help distribute the load over the thin floor sheetmetal.
 
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