Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK So I have read the Haynes manual and read many a forums on here about replacing oil pan and gasket and I'm still having some serious problems...

My thought is I want to lower the cross member. It says nothing about that in the Haynes manual. Anyways getting the bolts off at the crossmember FML :banghead ....It seems they are rusted on there nice and good. Does anyone have any suggestions on this? Also I'm doing this on the ground because I just moved and do not have access to lifts, another FML (wish I was back in GA) :doh0715: . Another question I have is if I do get the bolts loose and lower the crossmember will this be sufficient to get the pan out or do I still need to raise the engine? Which brings me to another question...When I raise the engine do I really need to take out the radiator or can I just take off the fan so it doesn't hit the radiator?

:whiteflag
 

·
green ones make me horny
Joined
·
11,155 Posts
What cross member are you trying to lower? The TTB arms. really that is alot more work then you need to do wo remove the oil pan. loosed the motor mounts, and tranny mount, remove intake if you have too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The exhaust, Y arms, that is located at back of Oil pan and Tranny. It looks like if I could get those to drop down I could just let the oil pan drop down via the back but it also looks like it may get caught on the tranny.

Yeah the Haynes book goes through this long list of things like taking off the radiator, exhaust manifold, lift engine and then the oil pan can come off but I thought that was a ton of work myself. I mean, if the engine does need to be lifted then I can understand taking all that off so not to jack other stuff up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,790 Posts
What I would do it remove the exhaust y pipe,
unbolt the radiator fan shroud and engine mounts then lift the engine. make shire to support the engine when you lift it.
 

·
~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Joined
·
10,061 Posts
If your doing this in the truck, you must at least lift the engine, and remove the exhaust. Hard to do this job with the motor in the truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok, sounds good. Going to try that in the morning. One other quick question...Whats a good product to use for rusted bolts? I've heard "Liquid wrench" is pretty good but I don't have experience or any idea what is best course of action for this.
 

·
~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Joined
·
10,061 Posts
Ok, sounds good. Going to try that in the morning. One other quick question...Whats a good product to use for rusted bolts? I've heard "Liquid wrench" is pretty good but I don't have experience or any idea what is best course of action for this.


And plan on busting exhaust studs.

I always do this job by pulling the motor. Makes life sooooooooo much better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,639 Posts
if your going todo this job, I would remove the upper 1st, disco the Y pipe, cut some woooden blocks to squeeze between the engine mount and frame. Get the motor as high as you can. It can be a struggle placing the pan in and getting access to the oil pump bolts.



If you want to prime the oilpump, get a oilprimer tool or a distributer shaft with no gear attached. Some have used a extra long socket and 1/4" extension, but I would be afraid of dropping the tool down the front cover hole.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, I'm having a hell of a time :( I have the engine raised the, the Y pipe is disconnected but still in the way because the crossmember is preventing it from going down any further. Tomorrow I'm gonna have to support the tranny and drop the crossmember and finally be able to get the pan completely off. The pan is off and sitting against the Y pipe now. I wasn't planning on the job being this complicated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
The only way to get the pans off is to raise the motor. Most ford techs will tell you you have to do a full engine pull to do it BUT thats not the case.

YOu want to disconnect your exhaust.
Un-Bolt the engine and tranny mounts.
pull the upper air-intake off.
unbolt the pan and let it fall down
unbolt the oil pump and pick up tube
After this (assuming you have a cherry picker) you can pick the engine up enough to get the pan out
You have to make sure that you raise it way up mine was hitting the firewall and lifting the truck when i did this. And if i recall i pulled the pan out of the front.
 

·
~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Joined
·
10,061 Posts
Yeah, I'm having a hell of a time :( I have the engine raised the, the Y pipe is disconnected but still in the way because the crossmember is preventing it from going down any further. Tomorrow I'm gonna have to support the tranny and drop the crossmember and finally be able to get the pan completely off. The pan is off and sitting against the Y pipe now. I wasn't planning on the job being this complicated.
This job right here, is the first ever job I did to a Bronco. Will never forget the hell of a time I had doing this the way you are now. :haha

Will never ever do it this way again either
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, this is freaking crazy...I'm about to get a engine lift to take the engine out. I have the engine lifted and it's hitting the firewall, and still can't manage to get the pick up line out so it's still keeping the oil pan stuck in place....F*ing A cotton, F*ing A
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,639 Posts
Yeah, this is freaking crazy...I'm about to get a engine lift to take the engine out. I have the engine lifted and it's hitting the firewall, and still can't manage to get the pick up line out so it's still keeping the oil pan stuck in place....F*ing A cotton, F*ing A
Is the upper off?

I had to lift my motor up till the lower hit the back intake and firewall. And then the pan cleared all crossmembers and I could barely squeeze my hand in to install the drive rod.

Get the engine up as far up as it can go. Make sure you place some wooden blocks between the mounts and frame. It's a hard job, but is doable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
I pulled the two nuts off the bottom side of the motor mounts, then loosened the two nuts on the trans mount. From there I used a block of wood on the crank pulley to jack the motor up. I had to loosen the trans mount nuts pretty far so that the motor/trans setup could raise up as one piece. I ended up pulling the intake plenum off to get the motor up high enough to make it easier to pull the pan out. I didn't have to touch the plate on the front of the trans.
 

·
~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Joined
·
10,061 Posts
From there I used a block of wood on the crank pulley to jack the motor up.
Sorry, but i have to comment on this.

This is VERY RISKY. The crankshaft weakest points are up front.

Take a look at this photo.



The red lines are the weakest points and can crack if lifting the motor up by the crank. The yellow lines are the oil ports. And that makes the thin piece of metal where the red lines are even weaker.

So..........do so if you like, but it could cost you an engine.

I've had 2 cranks break up front like this..........and I wasn't responsible for either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,639 Posts
Sorry, but i have to comment on this.

This is VERY RISKY. The crankshaft weakest points are up front.

Take a look at this photo.



The red lines are the weakest points and can crack if lifting the motor up by the crank. The yellow lines are the oil ports. And that makes the thin piece of metal where the red lines are even weaker.

So..........do so if you like, but it could cost you an engine.

I've had 2 cranks break up front like this..........and I wasn't responsible for either.

ditto

Your stressing the crankshaft and could distort it or the balancer. Do it right by using blocks of wood under the engine mounts and between the frame or get a hoist and do it from the top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
OK, so I have the oil pan off and now trying to put everything back but ohhhhh wait running into another problem. I don't know if I'm just frustrated enough with this job or what but I can't seem to get the internal drive shaft for the oil pump back into the distributor socket. Note: I still have the engine in and was able to place the blocks under the mounts and slide everything out. Anyways, any tips or tricks for getting the Internal Drive Shaft back in place?? Or can I pull the distributor and replace it that way?
 

·
~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Joined
·
10,061 Posts
OK, so I have the oil pan off and now trying to put everything back but ohhhhh wait running into another problem. I don't know if I'm just frustrated enough with this job or what but I can't seem to get the internal drive shaft for the oil pump back into the distributor socket. Note: I still have the engine in and was able to place the blocks under the mounts and slide everything out. Anyways, any tips or tricks for getting the Internal Drive Shaft back in place?? Or can I pull the distributor and replace it that way?
This is what you do. Turn the crank with the distributor resting on top of the shaft. This will turn the distributor and it will drop into place once the bottom of the distributor lines up with the oil pump shaft. You'll find this method is too easy. Lol.

Edit: But this method requires lifting the distributor up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,639 Posts
just poke around up in there. The hole can be seen but you can easily feel around. Once you have the shaft in place, you can turn the engine over by hand or bumping the starter ( remove the center coil wire ) and have someone validate that the shaft turns. But you will know by feel the klunk sound when the shaft is really in.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top