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Discussion Starter #1
ok i got a set of those ford racing spark plug wires that everyone (it seems) on here has recomended. i ordered from summit. they cam eand the box says they are for 5.0/5.8 (i have a 5.8). they came with 10 wires:whiteflag . 8 of them labled 1-8, a distributor to coil wire, and a tenth one with a different boot on one end that is too short to reach anywhere.

the coil to distributer wire is way too long. i know it's the right one because it's the only one with both ends with 90* boots. the "extra" wire is too short to reach the cap from the coil. i figure o well maybe there were other coil mounting locations.

so i went to run the rest of the wires (cap to plugs) and none of them are the same length as the motorcraft ones that are on there now. the ford racing ones are too long in almost every case.(didn't check all of them) :banghead

on top of that the motor craft ones are labled 1-8. but the old motorcraft coil to cap wire is labled #2. i'm really confused. i know as long as i hook the new wires to the right plugs it will run but i thought these ford racing wires were suppost to fit like stock? this is my first time changing spark plug wires on anythign so maybe i was just expecting too much? :scratchhe

the wires look great and the boot clips are great. but i thought the length was gunna be more exact then this? :shrug
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Those wires where mainly designed to fit Mustangs. The mustangs coil mount is on the pass side fender, thats why the long coil wire. They made all the other wires longer in order to make sure they would fit every Ford with a 5.0/5.8

I have never seen a set of "Custom Fit" wires fit right. Thats why I buy ACCEL 300+ race wires that are cut to fit. Since I decide the length, they fit perfictly. Makes a real clean install.
 

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Don't mean to hijack....but if someone is NOT going to upgrade their ignition...are Ford Racing wires overkill? Or would some 8mm wires work fine?


**Hijack-OVER**
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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8mm wires are fine even with an upgraded ignition. I think the Jacob's wires with my Jacob's ingition are 8m.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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jam0o0 said:
thanks gack. i thought it might just be too much to expect them to fit like the stock wires. any idea what the tenth wires is for? i'll have a pic on super motors tommorrow.
IIRC, Old Duraspark ignition systems that had a female connection on the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i got them from summit so the shipping was free. if i remember right they were 38? they were a christmas present from my brother so i don't really remember. i got red ones. i think the blue ones are a few dollars (2?) cheeper. but i want everything i can under the hood to be red or black.

side not. i've got access to a machine shop what do yall think of making some wire separtors / claps out of aluminum? i'd have to make them big enough to get a zip tie around them long ways or something to hold the wires in. i'm always looking from projects in the shop.
 

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Practicing Infidel
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jam0o0 said:
i got them from summit so the shipping was free. if i remember right they were 38? they were a christmas present from my brother so i don't really remember. i got red ones. i think the blue ones are a few dollars (2?) cheeper. but i want everything i can under the hood to be red or black.

side not. i've got access to a machine shop what do yall think of making some wire separtors / claps out of aluminum? i'd have to make them big enough to get a zip tie around them long ways or something to hold the wires in. i'm always looking from projects in the shop.
Jam0o0

Check the aftermarket steel ones out so you don't re-invent the wheel or forget to insulate them the same way.

Too bad about the extra length being no good for you. The Taylors on the Bronco 5.0 litre wer just a bit long, but not too, too long. The Black Ford Racing 9mms weren't too, too much longer on the Lincoln's 5.0 litre either. Gotta say I'm pretty happy with both sets. BTW blame us 86ers for that extra long coil wire, we need it.

A note to Million$dragon. If you're gonna upgrade everything eventually it won't hurt to stick aftermarket wires on now. If your stock wires are old it could be costing you dearly in mileage and performance, in my experience.

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #11
that's what i thought gack. but i've seen billit ones. and i have access to the aluminum and the tools...

"Check the aftermarket steel ones out so you don't re-invent the wheel or forget to insulate them the same way."
-Sixlitre-

i can't isolate them the same or rought them the same because of the length. i can get close though on the separation. i wonder if the stock separators can handle the bigger wires.

i thought i had heard that the wires weren't suppost to touch each other. but then i look at how the wires are arranged at the cap now and every single one of them is roughted (sp) efficiently. but this means they all touch. all of them. so i was thinking i could use the extra slack in the new wires to have them all point out, away from the center of the cap so they aren't so close together. i wonder if that's why the new ones are so much longer?
 

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jam0o0 said:
i wonder if the stock separators can handle the bigger wires.

i thought i had heard that the wires weren't suppost to touch each other. but then i look at how the wires are arranged at the cap now and every single one of them is roughted (sp) efficiently. but this means they all touch. all of them. so i was thinking i could use the extra slack in the new wires to have them all point out, away from the center of the cap so they aren't so close together. i wonder if that's why the new ones are so much longer?
Jam0o0

That's probably why they give us the extra slack

Here's a cap shot of my black 9mms on the Lincoln;



You were asking about the stock wire seperators ? Here they are holding the 9mms no trouble on the Lincoln Mileagemaster;



On a SBF I haven't yet been able to avoid the odd wire touching here and there, just because of the cap layout and firing order, but then again, I've just been replacing it the stock way. I guess with all the good insulation on those 9mms it ain't that critical.

Sixlitre
 

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jam0o0 said:
that's what i thought gack. but i've seen billit ones. and i have access to the aluminum and the tools...

"Check the aftermarket steel ones out so you don't re-invent the wheel or forget to insulate them the same way."
-Sixlitre-

i can't isolate them the same or rought them the same because of the length. i can get close though on the separation. i wonder if the stock separators can handle the bigger wires.

i thought i had heard that the wires weren't suppost to touch each other. but then i look at how the wires are arranged at the cap now and every single one of them is roughted (sp) efficiently. but this means they all touch. all of them. so i was thinking i could use the extra slack in the new wires to have them all point out, away from the center of the cap so they aren't so close together. i wonder if that's why the new ones are so much longer?
The two critical ones are the #7 & #8 wires. Those two had some sort of issue where the crossing was causing a misfire.
 

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The FMS. wires are long, I routed mine like my 83 5.0 Mustang was routed, around the front of the valve covers you will have to use wire seperators.





coil wire.
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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Streetgang said:
The two critical ones are the #7 & #8 wires. Those two had some sort of issue where the crossing was causing a misfire.
With a 302 it's #7 & #8 firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
With a 351 it's #5 & #6 f.o. is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
 

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they are long...but thats better then to short....iv bought 2 sets of ford racing wires 1 ready to set and 1 set i had to put the ends on and the univerial set is the way to go for looks since you can cut them to length
 

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RLKBOB said:
With a 302 it's #7 & #8 firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
With a 351 it's #5 & #6 f.o. is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
I guess you can tell I am driving a 302 these days.
 

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I prefer taylor wires. Some good wires IMO is one of the cheapest/easiest way to gain performance. So long as you go with spriro core or solid core (If you don't want to listen to the radio) You'll be fine. Most off the counter wires are resistant wires which are pretty much made so you CAN listen to the radio. Spiro core is the best of both worlds and as a result they are more expensive.
 

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BigNorm said:
I prefer taylor wires. Some good wires IMO is one of the cheapest/easiest way to gain performance. So long as you go with spriro core or solid core (If you don't want to listen to the radio) You'll be fine. Most off the counter wires are resistant wires which are pretty much made so you CAN listen to the radio. Spiro core is the best of both worlds and as a result they are more expensive.
Norm

I'm pretty sure you're the one who told me to get them and you were right, they are.

The Bronco got Taylors, but the stealership made me a deal on FMS wires, for the Lincoln, that I couldn't pass up.

Sixlitre
 
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