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Discussion Starter #1
Here is the deal.

The BKO would have this unsure footing on the highway and while sitting still and turning the wheel the truck would shift from side-to-side.

We had put a new soft rubber track bar bushings in the Bronco this summer hoping that it would fix it. It did not.

I was at work (I work at Carquest) and pouring through the chassis parts book and found a Moog part that seemed like a good idea.

It is a set of polyurethane track bar bushings by Moog and it fixed the problem completely, and took less than an hour to install.

CCH K8447 is the MFG code and Part number. If I remember right it retails for only about $22.00 (although me and Potamus's cost is significantly less :goodfinge )

It feels saft to drive again and does not need a steering box rebuild like previously thought.
 

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thanks for post that.
i just can't remember what year brinco did you have the problem on? so many threads read. thanks again for posting a fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it is a 1978.

should work for anyone who did a SAS into their newer BKO using 78-79 running gear.
 

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yeah those are the only ones that i use in my track bar.
 

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Never had a problem with wobble since i put my moog bushings in about 6 years ago.
 

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Or NAPA

Just put new track bar bushings in my 79 ..got the kit from NAPA... $17.95

Should be part # 274-9146

Just FYI. :thumbup
 

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my bronco would eat those poly bushings weekly when I was using them for wheeling. once I went to heims on both ends that fixed the problems
 

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Ingalls Engineering replacement track arm bolt.

On alot of '78-'79 Broncos and F150s, the track arm bolt hole (cast onto Dana 44) is worn out. So, even with new bushings, there's still slop in the track arm. Ingalls Engineering makes a replacement track arm bolt #84979 that's tapered to fit tight. The installation requires the use of a tapered reamer KD part #2044. I did this on my '78 Bronco years ago and it's one of the best things i did!
http://www.ingallseng.com/misc_parts/84979.htm Ingalls track arm bolt
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbody02.html KD tapered reamer
 

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Danny Cabral said:
On alot of '78-'79 Broncos and F150s, the track arm bolt hole (cast onto Dana 44) is worn out. So, even with new bushings, there's still slop in the track arm. Ingalls Engineering makes a replacement track arm bolt #84979 that's tapered to fit tight. The installation requires the use of a tapered reamer KD part #2044. I did this on my '78 Bronco years ago and it's one of the best things i did!
http://www.ingallseng.com/misc_parts/84979.htm Ingalls track arm bolt
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbody02.html KD tapered reamer

"Ditto" good fix...:thumbup
 

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Danny Cabral said:
On alot of '78-'79 Broncos and F150s, the track arm bolt hole (cast onto Dana 44) is worn out. So, even with new bushings, there's still slop in the track arm. Ingalls Engineering makes a replacement track arm bolt #84979 that's tapered to fit tight. The installation requires the use of a tapered reamer KD part #2044. I did this on my '78 Bronco years ago and it's one of the best things i did!
http://www.ingallseng.com/misc_parts/84979.htm Ingalls track arm bolt
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbody02.html KD tapered reamer


i did the same thing to mine...its a pricy bolt but it worth every penny
 

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jopes said:
my bronco would eat those poly bushings weekly when I was using them for wheeling. once I went to heims on both ends that fixed the problems
:stupid

heims for tracbar work great.
 

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I don't have any "wobble" it rides smooth, but it's got some play from hell. I can turn the wheel almost a 1/4 turn before the wheels turn. I've adapted and I'm used to it, but I need to fix it.

I haven't tried tightening the box yet, but dad got under the truck and I moved the wheel and he says the suspension is moving, so my guess is the front end is just loose as all hell.

So would this fix my problem? I'll add it to my list when I do the radius arm bushing and C-bushings.
 

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46079bronco said:
i did the same thing to mine...its a pricy bolt but it worth every penny
Summit Racing has it for $42.69.

jopes said:
my bronco would eat those poly bushings weekly when I was using them for wheeling. once I went to heims on both ends that fixed the problems
Loosen the trac bar jam nut (for adjusting length) before you go off road, this allows the ends to rotate slightly as the axle articulates.
 

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Bronco Mels said:
So would this fix my problem? I'll add it to my list when I do the radius arm bushing and C-bushings.
It might if that's where the play is ... I did mine 5-6 years ago and havent had to touch it since... the bolt will move noticably in the housing if this is what's wrong with yours
 

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Mels, usually if you have bad track bar bushings you can turn the steering wheel left and right repeatedly with the motor off and the body of your truck will start to move side to side before the wheels do.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That is what happened with Potamus's 78. It is like the axle wanted to dance independently of the body.

I also measured the diameter of the track bar mounting holes to make sure they were not out of round significantly.

I measure everything now that I am a machinist, it is kind of sad.

If only my slide calipers could talk, they would tell you of things that no tool should ever witness.
 

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mine did that till i replaced every bushing underneath the front end now its a tight as she ever was.ima have to try the heim join thing if my bushings go bad though
 

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Danny Cabral said:
Loosen the trac bar jam nut (for adjusting length) before you go off road, this allows the ends to rotate slightly as the axle articulates.

the front axle is not putting that much into the track bar, and running loose heim joints can prematurely wear out the threads on the heims and track bar.

I have not had any problems with my tight track bar jam nuts and my front end flexes pretty good I think.
 

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jopes said:
the front axle is not putting that much into the track bar, and running loose heim joints can prematurely wear out the threads on the heims and track bar.

I have not had any problems with my tight track bar jam nuts and my front end flexes pretty good I think.
The 'jam nut trick' was in reference to polyurethane bushing wear, not heim joints. Heim joints swivel, bushings compress.
 

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Another point to check is the frame drop bracket. Mine was egged out, which killed the bolt. Welded 1/4 plate on both sides, redrilled and got a longer bolt. Been good since 98 on 44's.
 
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