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Discussion Starter #1
Just came across a Dana 60 front and a Dana 70 rear for $600, they came out of a '97 F350 Diesel. From what i gather the front has new brakes, bearings, hubs and u joints. The rear is missing the drums.

Its been a long while since i visited this site as i drove my newer truck, but i recently sold it and now i'm drivin the Bronco again. I would have tried to search but i'm seeing the guy tomorrow so i thought i'd post this up fast.
 

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Sounds like a "fair" price for this era axle. Though I am not convinced that this truck would have had a Dana 70 rear. This should be a sterling 10.25, and the last of the standard lug pattern to boot.
This front axle is a ball joint axle with inverted "T" style steering. This will bolt up to your existing steering box and pitman arm with ease, but crossover steering starts to get expensive. Unfortunately, since this is not a king pin type (actually a trunnion bearing), a bolt on steering arm is not available, and this type of steering option will require an entire knuckle, or a machined knuckle that will accept, a modified steering arm.
Other than this, verify or identify the rear axle, and be sure that you can use it. This will depend upon the VSS requirement, but that is small stuff.
Sounds like another 1 ton Bronco in the works.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't even think about the 10.25 and that it replaced the Dana 70, its been so long since i researched it all. I won't need the VSS as i have an '85, I'm thinking of doing a leaf style axle swap to keep things simple and cheap as i don't have the know how or tools to do the swap myself.
 

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Sounds like a "fair" price for this era axle. Though I am not convinced that this truck would have had a Dana 70 rear. This should be a sterling 10.25, and the last of the standard lug pattern to boot.
This front axle is a ball joint axle with inverted "T" style steering. This will bolt up to your existing steering box and pitman arm with ease, but crossover steering starts to get expensive. Unfortunately, since this is not a king pin type (actually a trunnion bearing), a bolt on steering arm is not available, and this type of steering option will require an entire knuckle, or a machined knuckle that will accept, a modified steering arm.
Other than this, verify or identify the rear axle, and be sure that you can use it. This will depend upon the VSS requirement, but that is small stuff.
Sounds like another 1 ton Bronco in the works.
+1
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow, when i read that these things were heavy they weren't kidding

Haven't even cleaned them up enough to see the gear ratio in'em lol....all i know is i got a solid front 60 lol. Didn't think i would find one for awhile, and almost put the cash into fixin my ttb 44....

Now i just need to completly do a search on this forum on this kind of swap and gather parts for it.

I'll post some more info & pics after i get'em out of the truck and cleaned up a little.

Oh, and thanks for those quick replys last night....last time i found a dana 60 it was from a newer dodge and with the help from this site i stayed clear of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Was lookin over Craigslist and found a guy selling front and rear leaf springs off a 2008 F250, says their 5 leaf. Anyone think these might work for my truck as a daily driver and maybe 33" later on? or would these be to stiff......

he doesn't list a price, just best offer. Can you think of a good price for me to say for them?
 

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Was lookin over Craigslist and found a guy selling front and rear leaf springs off a 2008 F250, says their 5 leaf. Anyone think these might work for my truck as a daily driver and maybe 33" later on? or would these be to stiff......

he doesn't list a price, just best offer. Can you think of a good price for me to say for them?
For rear suspension if you just wanna stay stock, just bolt up your current leaf springs to the 10.25 and call it done.

As for FRONT and rear leaf springs off of an 08 F250, the fronts on those are coil. Maybe i'm just reading it differntly than you meant to type it though. I would go with a chevy 52" leaf spring from the rear of a K5 blazer/jimmy/pickup in the front with the shackle to the rear. There's lots of write ups on the leaf spring front suspension.

Just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It didn't even dawn on me that the newer superduties had coils up front:doh0715:, the pic the guy posted showed all four and i just got an email back from him sayin he'd like $600 for them, i don't even know much about prices on stuff but that seems wishfull thinking on his part.

I had read through 50 pages last night on the "Newbie SAS Questions" before i quit and didn't find the info i was looking for. But i did read up on Bronco Boy's build and saw he used Pro Comp's 4" lift leafs #11411. They seemed pretty cheap for 130 a pop on Summit. I haven't been to the pick'n'pull to look for anything, but i'm sure if i find something its gonna be a pita to pull'em out in 90*+ florida heat. So i'd rather pass on that if i can:toothless
 

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You dont need much of a spring up front to clear small 33's. In fact, Im thinking that 33's will be rather small after you bolt up any hanger up front and a set of rear swing shackles.

Here is a 94 using stock 99 to 04 SD "X" code springs and 35's:





Similar truck with similar drivetrain and 38's. Again "X" code SD leafs, and a 1 inch zero rate, and a slightly longer hanger:




Usually rolls on 37's:




Stock leafs are easy to find, and have the potential to clear some decent meats.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the pics, i was just looking over Mikes SAS build thread and saw those top pics you posted there. I really like the way that turned out, makin me wish i didn't have any rust on my fenders lol.

What do you mean by "X" code springs? I notice it only has two leafs per pack in the front does that have anything to do with it.
 

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Thanks for the pics, i was just looking over Mikes SAS build thread and saw those top pics you posted there. I really like the way that turned out, makin me wish i didn't have any rust on my fenders lol.

What do you mean by "X" code springs? I notice it only has two leafs per pack in the front does that have anything to do with it.
I played a small role in the builds of Mikes truck, Bro_J's and Jason Carpenter1's trucks.

In 99 to 04 SD springs came in various rates. Higher rates provided a slightly increased amount of lift. This is important when used under earlier trucks and Broncos.
The "X" code is one of the higher rates available, this nets about an inch or so more lift than something rated lower.

Mikes truck on 35's is a real sleeper. 35's are about perfect for this mild 1 ton conversion, but is super capable off road. The changes of breaking it are minimal, and only the keen eye can detect the 8 lugs wheels, or solid front axle.
That truck rocks!
With a few upgrades Mikes truck is going to be a fine example of how Ford should have made these trucks right off of the assembly line.
Not too huge, super practical, but all business when it comes to hitting any trail.
His install was clean and in a fashion that is not "in your face" overwhelming.

While all three of the above mentioned Broncos run king pin front axles, only one runs a true crossover, but all run a reasonably stock front leaf spring.

Rears are bone stock leafs. Shackle flips were used on one, no, now two, but Mikes only uses a stock 2 inch block from a Super Duty and the original wedge to change the pinion angle.
Everything back there is as stock as ford ever made it, just not for this application.:toothless

Driveshafts on Mikes are unmodified as well. Bone stock stuff, almost a bolt in deal for his.

If you plan on staying on the mild side, keep the spring arch to a minumum, and you will be days ahead of the game.
Your ride will be awesome.

The two black Broncos with Stock SD front leafs ride better than other with the 89 to 97 F350 front spring pack, and to tell you the truth, they black ones ride better now, than they did when they were bone stock.

The two together so you dont think they are the same, even though they do look like twins:




Forgot to mention, they flex rather well:




Not that bad anyway.......:beer
 

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This belongs to eastloscrazyhorse94. His name is Mike, and he has a build thread on this site.
I dont recall the manufacturer, they may have bee Pro Comps., but I can tell you that they are DOT approved street locks, and not real bead locks.
This truck is a daily driver for Mike, and he has to abide by the California DOT rules and regs.

Im sure if you were to PM him, he would be more than happy to answer your questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks! Just the kind of info i was looking for, just to be sure on the springs i found a site that sells the kind your speaking of. It would be the ones rated to 2630 correct. I think i'll go the route mike took on his rear set up to keep it simple. Here's the link to it.http://www.generalspringkc.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=82&pg=1

On another note, the axles i have are geared to 3.55. Do you think i would have trouble getting around with my 4.9 and 4speed? Didn't want to dig into the axles untill i had lockers on hand so it would be a one time deal to cut costs after i move up north to Georgia.
 

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33's with a 300 & a 4spd should be ok. It wont have awesome acceleration but then again the 300 isn't built for drag race style launches. I would think with the low ratio in 1st on the 4spd and the good low end torque on the 300 you'll be fine. If you were gonna go to 35's I'd say a gear upgrade to 4.10 or 4.56 would be necessary but the 3.55's should turn the 33's fine, shouldn't be a big deal.

When my pickup (5.8/ZF5) was still a daily driver/tow rig i ran 33" radials on it and it still towed trailers fine and drove pretty much the same as when it had 31's on it. My old bronco had a 300/C6 with 3.55's and I daily drove that with 34"LTB's on it for awhile. Could hardly notice the difference from the 31's that were on it
 
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