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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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447 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just drove the first miles on streets, and voila, there is the first problem:

When I come to 50-60 km/h speed 30-35 mph the steering wheel starts to wobble, the whole car shakes.
it feels like front axle is moving really badly.
Car was in 2H mode

I looked into radius arms and tried to move them, no change, when car is standing on ground, steering linkage, anti-roll-bar seem all to be straight and rigid.

rear radius bushings look like this, at least not the same on both sides:

Any Ideas?

driver side:

161623


passenger side:

161624
 

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95 5.8L XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Manual hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15's, 301K miles
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818 Posts
It looks to me as though the Radius Arm Bushings are installed INCORRECTLY!!!! Installed the way they are your front axles will be pulled to the rear of the vehicle resulting in an EXTREME Toe-out condition. Was your vehicle aligned with the Radius Arms installed like this?
There should be a rubber bushing on both sides of the Bracket (1 on the forward side and 1 on the rear side) they both appear to be on the rear side of the bracket!!! Look at the below examples:

 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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447 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The more pictures I see, mine are mounted totally wrong, yes.

did get the car with these setup as pictures from PO.
 

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Registered
95 5.8L XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Manual hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15's, 301K miles
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818 Posts
Order yourself a new set of Blue Thermoplastic Radius Arm Bushings and get it done Right and your shaky experience should become a thing of the past after you check the rest of the front suspension out for any other strange installations or worn parts. Get a good frontend Alignment (in the loaded condition) when all the parts are fine.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,318 Posts
That's definitely the issue.

I would check/replace all front suspension bushings, like the radius arm C bushings, track bar, steering arms, etc. I prefer the urethane bushings, but they are a bit stiffer.
 
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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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447 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the tips - it already helped a bit to assemble the rubber correctly:
the big rubber with the smaller area (going through the mounting flange) put in front BEFORE the flange, the roughly 1 inch thick part behind.
This just took me 2 hours - and resulting in upshifting the speed when the problem occurs: it now starts around 60-70 km/h, so roughly 15-20 km/h later
As can be observed from the driver side picture, I miss the normal round rubber part, I put in a radiator mount bushing from the energy suspension kit for the body mounts.

I ordered a full bushing and steering linakge/tie rod end set of Rockauto
Energy Suspension incl. Track Arm Bushings/Radius/Strut Arm Bushings/C-Bushings; 4 Deg. Offset
plus new stabilizer bushing fitting a 1 1/8 Stabilizer, and such.

another 350€ gone incl. shipment, but if this covers the job, I will be totally happy!!
 

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14,888 Posts
should look like this..
That's definitely the issue.

I would check/replace all front suspension bushings, like the radius arm C bushings, track bar, steering arms, etc. I prefer the urethane bushings, but they are a bit stiffer.
x2, I used the energy suspension bushing for everything on mine.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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447 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Jermil01 confirming a mix of Energy and moog will be good :)

even I was a bit frustrated yesterday, its the next step I have to take.
Did not really thing about rubber, except body mounts, some look bad, but rubber is still soft... so I parked my kit.
 

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Thanks Jermil01 confirming a mix of Energy and moog will be good :)

even I was a bit frustrated yesterday, its the next step I have to take.
Did not really thing about rubber, except body mounts, some look bad, but rubber is still soft... so I parked my kit.
You're welcome. I don't see any issue with mixing the two brands..Are the moog parts urethane or rubber?

For reference, I went for urethane all the way around on my Bronco. I figured the trade off for a bit harsher ride was ok considering the urethane will last a lot longer than the rubber.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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447 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
According to Rockauto the Moog stabilizer braket rubber is rubber.

i agree, going urethane, but the just had some non premium stuff apart from that.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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447 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
we installed new steering linkage.
The driver side ball end stud was not really good, as all the other 3 ball heads.
when I sat down in front of the car I could move the lower steering arm with the screw connection to the driver side outer steering ball joint up and down.
After we got the entire likage out it became obvious that all 4 ball heads are shot.
I could move them with the small finger, scraping inside a bit.

The new parts (mostly moog) can only be moved with a full hand and some power. I guess its used to be like this.

We did not replace any of the C Bushings or stabilisator bushings yet, as I had nothing around to jack the car at the frame rails instead of the axle.

Could not drive yet, to verify if it was that, as I got tank issues :) and some more this weekend. Will answer back when the other stuff is cured.
 
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