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Discussion Starter #1
In an attempt to do the front brakes and rotors myself, I think I bit of more then I could chew. This is a desperate cry for help to anyone in the Portland, OR area that could help me with my front brakes or knows of a reputable shop that I could take my rig too.

I have taken the rotor off of the spindle. I've tried the local tire stores (Les Schwab, Car Quest) to see if they could press on the studs and the 4 wheel drive sleeve and no one wants to help me because of the ABS ring. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Since everything is apart should I switch to manual hubs? Should I replace the bearings and races? AAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!

This morning there was 8 inches of snow in my driveway and I had to drive the suburban :brownbag to work.

I think I should of spent $350.00 to a shop to fix the brakes
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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96BroncoEB said:
In an attempt to do the front brakes and rotors myself, I think I bit of more then I could chew. This is a desperate cry for help to anyone in the Portland, OR area that could help me with my front brakes or knows of a reputable shop that I could take my rig too.

I have taken the rotor off of the spindle. I've tried the local tire stores (Les Schwab, Car Quest) to see if they could press on the studs and the 4 wheel drive sleeve and no one wants to help me because of the ABS ring. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Since everything is apart should I switch to manual hubs? Should I replace the bearings and races? AAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!

This morning there was 8 inches of snow in my driveway and I had to drive the suburban :brownbag to work.

I think I should of spent $350.00 to a shop to fix the brakes
Naaaah, don't waste your money, it's not that hard. Easiest question first is yea, now is a great time to convert to manual hubs. Do you need to replace the bearings and races or do they look OK, if so, just clean them up and repack the bearings.

Why do you need to have a shop press the studs on? If I hear you right, you have parted the rotor from the hub. So you should also have the wheel studs and ABS toner ring free as well. In order to get the inner bearing out, you will need to pull the inner hub seal, so you should buy a new one of those. Inspect both bearings, if OK, set aside until you are ready to reassemble, if not, you will need to pull the races and get new bearings. To reassemble, put your new rotors or turned rotors on, and get a BFH and tap the studs back in until fully seated, this is what I did, have had no problems. CAREFULLY tap the toner ring back on the hub, you don't want to break a tooth off it. Make sure it is fully seated. If it is not, you will know as it will rub the pickup. now if bearings were ok, clean, repack and reinstall. Reinstall new inner bearing seal. Now you are ready to put the hub/rotor assembly back on. Don't forget, since you have gone this far, now would be a good time to pull the spindle and check the spindle bearing before reinstalling the hub/rotor assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rotor and the hub are still attached. How do you get them apart? If this is so easy, how about if I pay you to come and fix this for me. AAHHHHHH!!!!!! :cry

Don't forget, since you have gone this far, now would be a good time to pull the spindle and check the spindle bearing before reinstalling the hub/rotor assembly.

How do you do this :lolup ?

Too make things worse. I spent nearly an hour trying to pull off the retainer clip that holds the 4wd mechanism in the hub. My wife comes out in the garage and pulls it off in 10 seconds? :stupid

Thanks for the reply. I'm just frustrated and If I had someone there to show how to do this crap I think it would be alot easier.

thejuice said:
Naaaah, don't waste your money, it's not that hard. Easiest question first is yea, now is a great time to convert to manual hubs. Do you need to replace the bearings and races or do they look OK, if so, just clean them up and repack the bearings.

Why do you need to have a shop press the studs on? If I hear you right, you have parted the rotor from the hub. So you should also have the wheel studs and ABS toner ring free as well. In order to get the inner bearing out, you will need to pull the inner hub seal, so you should buy a new one of those. Inspect both bearings, if OK, set aside until you are ready to reassemble, if not, you will need to pull the races and get new bearings. To reassemble, put your new rotors or turned rotors on, and get a BFH and tap the studs back in until fully seated, this is what I did, have had no problems. CAREFULLY tap the toner ring back on the hub, you don't want to break a tooth off it. Make sure it is fully seated. If it is not, you will know as it will rub the pickup. now if bearings were ok, clean, repack and reinstall. Reinstall new inner bearing seal. Now you are ready to put the hub/rotor assembly back on. Don't forget, since you have gone this far, now would be a good time to pull the spindle and check the spindle bearing before reinstalling the hub/rotor assembly.
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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I'll assume you're trying to get the rotors off the hubs so you can replace the rotors.
To get them apart is very easy, no special tools required.

- Once you have the rotor/hub assy off, lay it on the ground.
- Put the lug nuts on the studs almost flush with the end of the stud.
- Smack the lug nut with a hammer and pound the lug stud out.
- Make sure you do it this way or else you'll mushroom out the end of your lug studs and it'll be alot harder to get em out and then you'll have to replace them.
- Once all the studs are out the rotor and hub will come apart.

When putting it back together you can either pound them back in as stated earlier or tap em in a little so they're tight put on a lug nut with the flat side facing the hub and tighten it up with an impact gun (much easier....... if you have air comp and air tools)

Good luck and DON'T take it to a shop this job is too easy to pay somebody else that kind of money to do.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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96BroncoEB said:
Rotor and the hub are still attached. How do you get them apart? If this is so easy, how about if I pay you to come and fix this for me. AAHHHHHH!!!!!! :cry

Don't forget, since you have gone this far, now would be a good time to pull the spindle and check the spindle bearing before reinstalling the hub/rotor assembly.

How do you do this :lolup ?

Too make things worse. I spent nearly an hour trying to pull off the retainer clip that holds the 4wd mechanism in the hub. My wife comes out in the garage and pulls it off in 10 seconds? :stupid

Thanks for the reply. I'm just frustrated and If I had someone there to show how to do this crap I think it would be alot easier.
OK, you made it sound like you had the hub and rotor seperated already. To get them apart, you need a small 3 jaw puller to carefully pull the ABS ring from the hub, again careful of the teeth. Then you can hit the studs (little liquid penetrant never hurts hear), to pop them loose. This will seperate rotor from hub. the abs ring is the tricky part cuz again you don't want to break a tooth, the ring is difficult to find, I had to buy a new one from dealer at $40. junkyards only want to sell you the entire assembly, at least around here. I live in Tigard, so if you aren't too far away, I could come over to assist.

Spindle is easy though again I recommend the proper tool if it has not been off before, mine was really frozen on there. There are five bolts that hold our spindle on. The sixth bolt is actually a small bolt coming in from the back of the steering knuckle that also holds the little abs round pickup in place. A slide hammer and a spindle puller is what you need. I have these again if you are close by.

The large outer ring that holds the innards of your hub dial can be a PITA. To make life easier there, I slightly bent the ends, and use a dental like hooked probe you can buy at any auto parts store.

Yes, I am listing off special tools, that will likely make you mad again, but I don't know if you use your 4WD much...if you do, all these tools and know how will come in handy, if something goes wrong up front you will have a much better understanding of how things work, and the proper tools to fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
To my future hero: THE JUICE.

I live in Oregon City. So I will treat you to whatever your thirst desires if you have time to come over and assist. My work number is 503-226-3664 and have my receptionist get me immediately if I'm on the phone.

thejuice said:
OK, you made it sound like you had the hub and rotor seperated already. To get them apart, you need a small 3 jaw puller to carefully pull the ABS ring from the hub, again careful of the teeth. Then you can hit the studs (little liquid penetrant never hurts hear), to pop them loose. This will seperate rotor from hub. the abs ring is the tricky part cuz again you don't want to break a tooth, the ring is difficult to find, I had to buy a new one from dealer at $40. junkyards only want to sell you the entire assembly, at least around here. I live in Tigard, so if you aren't too far away, I could come over to assist.

Spindle is easy though again I recommend the proper tool if it has not been off before, mine was really frozen on there. There are five bolts that hold our spindle on. The sixth bolt is actually a small bolt coming in from the back of the steering knuckle that also holds the little abs round pickup in place. A slide hammer and a spindle puller is what you need. I have these again if you are close by.

The large outer ring that holds the innards of your hub dial can be a PITA. To make life easier there, I slightly bent the ends, and use a dental like hooked probe you can buy at any auto parts store.

Yes, I am listing off special tools, that will likely make you mad again, but I don't know if you use your 4WD much...if you do, all these tools and know how will come in handy, if something goes wrong up front you will have a much better understanding of how things work, and the proper tools to fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
96BroncoEB said:
To my future hero: THE JUICE.

I live in Oregon City. So I will treat you to whatever your thirst desires if you have time to come over and assist. My work number is 503-226-3664 and have my receptionist get me immediately if I'm on the phone.
I guess I should give you my name..............
just ask for Kevin.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just got your message and I will call you by 4:30. I do have to work sometimes. Tried calling your # @ 4:45 and there is no answer. If you could try me @ home it would be great. 503-742-9905 home or my cell 503-504-4601.

thejuice said:
OK, you made it sound like you had the hub and rotor seperated already. To get them apart, you need a small 3 jaw puller to carefully pull the ABS ring from the hub, again careful of the teeth. Then you can hit the studs (little liquid penetrant never hurts hear), to pop them loose. This will seperate rotor from hub. the abs ring is the tricky part cuz again you don't want to break a tooth, the ring is difficult to find, I had to buy a new one from dealer at $40. junkyards only want to sell you the entire assembly, at least around here. I live in Tigard, so if you aren't too far away, I could come over to assist.

Spindle is easy though again I recommend the proper tool if it has not been off before, mine was really frozen on there. There are five bolts that hold our spindle on. The sixth bolt is actually a small bolt coming in from the back of the steering knuckle that also holds the little abs round pickup in place. A slide hammer and a spindle puller is what you need. I have these again if you are close by.

The large outer ring that holds the innards of your hub dial can be a PITA. To make life easier there, I slightly bent the ends, and use a dental like hooked probe you can buy at any auto parts store.

Yes, I am listing off special tools, that will likely make you mad again, but I don't know if you use your 4WD much...if you do, all these tools and know how will come in handy, if something goes wrong up front you will have a much better understanding of how things work, and the proper tools to fix.
 
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