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It's BTW Not AKA!
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Ok time for front brake replacement. Yes i did search and no I didnt find what I was looking for. I looked through Steve's Superford and still didnt find what I was looking for.

Hopefuly I will be able to just turn the existing rotors. If not, what does it take to get them off. The guy at Advance gave me two rotors without hubs. Does the whole rotor/hub assembly have to be replaced? Just looking for soem insight here, and what tools and all would be required.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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Discussion Starter #2
Got em done...wasn that big of a deal.

Steve, i did look through it, and there was alot, it just wasnt exactly what I was looking for. Thanks though, I have used your site before.
 

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there are a couple ways it is easy autozone $23 hub and rotor and studs and race ready to install or big hammer and pound out the studs and the rotor falls off install new rotor and studs repacke the bearings and go...mike
 

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What size spanner socket should I get to pull the hub nut for an 1986 FSB, I know Autozone has them for not too much $. My right front disc brakes just started grinding today! I am definately going to change Hub & Rotors due to the drag I feel, the ones on there now are rusty and probably original oem's which I would like to keep & rebuild but I'm sure it's not worth it and I'm not set up at home with a compressor etc. I'll do the next best thing, get it back on the road. Thanks!
 

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I just did a quick fix this weekend on my front brakes, right outside pad was grinding the rotor so I pulled it and damn if the bottom pin hadn't worked itself out about half way. I put in upside down the last time rushing to get it done. All the other pads were fine, so as soon as I get a litle extra cash I'm going to change hub/rotor assembly and brake calipers. The ones on there are probably original and the piston inside looks nasty and rusty and slow, I swear I can feel a bit of drag when I drive but maybe it's just me. Wouldn't hurt to do it anyway.
 

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Lick my balls
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It's highly unlikely you need a new hub, and rotors are inexpensive to turn. Save your money. If you suspect the calipers are sticking, than yes it wouldn't hurt to replace them.
 

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SEARCH AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you obviously didnt search very hard....:duh :duh :duh

or you would have found this http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54490&highlight=brakes+101

if you cant figure out how to do brakes from that you should take them to a shop...thats my write-up...actually i think it is still on the first page of the tech section:duh :duh :duh

dc
 

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Lick my balls
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Yup thats a good right up.
 

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I'll save your excellent write up and do the swap at the end of the month when I have a little time & money. I just moved in with my girlfriend and started a new job a month ago so time & money are always a crunch. Autozone has deal where you get hub/rotor with studs race ready to go for $39.99 each by Amco which is same price for rotors alone so why not do it all in one stop. Some of the studs on the drivers were damaged I noticed when I bought the truck about two years ago, with bearings and brake flex lines the whole deal is about $250 which I think is reasonable. To take it in and have somone I don't know charge me upwards of $800-1000 I'd rather just make it new myself and save the money for something else. Once I get everything settled on the home front for the "MRS" so to speak I'll have time to complete some of the other little projects on my Bronco and hopefully get ahead for a change. I'll use your thread as the guideline with all those excellent pictures. Thanks Bro!
 

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Lick my balls
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JKossarides said:
I'll save your excellent write up and do the swap at the end of the month when I have a little time & money. I just moved in with my girlfriend and started a new job a month ago so time & money are always a crunch. Autozone has deal where you get hub/rotor with studs race ready to go for $39.99 each by Amco which is same price for rotors alone so why not do it all in one stop. Some of the studs on the drivers were damaged I noticed when I bought the truck about two years ago, with bearings and brake flex lines the whole deal is about $250 which I think is reasonable. To take it in and have somone I don't know charge me upwards of $800-1000 I'd rather just make it new myself and save the money for something else. Once I get everything settled on the home front for the "MRS" so to speak I'll have time to complete some of the other little projects on my Bronco and hopefully get ahead for a change. I'll use your thread as the guideline with all those excellent pictures. Thanks Bro!
Let me get this straight, $250 for 2 rotors, 2 hubs, 2 sets of bearings, repacked, (spindle bearings as well?) 2 brake lines, and they will re and re the whole thing? Does that include brakes and calipers?
Shite, for that price, I wouldn't even hesitate taking my truck to them.
 

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Practicing Infidel
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JKossarides said:
What size spanner socket should I get to pull the hub nut for an 1986 FSB, I know Autozone has them for not too much $. My right front disc brakes just started grinding today! I am definately going to change Hub & Rotors due to the drag I feel, the ones on there now are rusty and probably original oem's which I would like to keep & rebuild but I'm sure it's not worth it and I'm not set up at home with a compressor etc. I'll do the next best thing, get it back on the road. Thanks!
JK

It's not a matter of size, it's a matter of shape and number of pins. You need the one on the right;



Listen to Waltman and check for binding calipers. They can knock enough off you gas mileage to pay for themselves every month you drive it.

BTW GT

it ain't rocket science seperateing the hub and rotor hats, it's actually quite easy;



Sixlitre
 

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Maybe less just for the parts with tax, I can deposit rent the spanner socket for free and just buy the snap ring pliers but other then that, yeah maybe a few dollars less with tax depending on what I actually buy and if I don't need bearings perhaps it will be less. In SOCAL once you pull in to a place they got you for parts, minimum 2 hrs on the labor clock and now you're stuck there and I don't trust some of these places, these guys come & go like the wind and it's all about the shop making money and no "Good Will". There's only a few places I've gone to for a long period that I trust. That's why an old dog like comes to a site like this, I'd rather do it myself right and put the money in my pocket. I used to be a purist but as you get older economics becomes more important factor. I know some guys have issues with some of these parts house like Autozone but it's convenient for me and fast.
I'd rather be Trap Shooting then getting greasy any day but you do what yo gotta do!

Great threads guys, when I grew up you had to learn it the hard way and I'm always leary about things "So Easy" and then things just don't go that way and you're stuck in the middle of it and have to fight it you know?
Some of you may not realize/appreciate what a LUXURY this site really is! Thanks Again ~
 

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Practicing Infidel
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JKossarides said:
Maybe less just for the parts with tax, I can deposit rent the spanner socket for free and just buy the snap ring pliers but other then that, yeah maybe a few dollars less with tax depending on what I actually buy and if I don't need bearings perhaps it will be less. In SOCAL once you pull in to a place they got you for parts, minimum 2 hrs on the labor clock and now you're stuck there and I don't trust some of these places, these guys come & go like the wind and it's all about the shop making money and no "Good Will". There's only a few places I've gone to for a long period that I trust. That's why an old dog like comes to a site like this, I'd rather do it myself right and put the money in my pocket. I used to be a purist but as you get older economics becomes more important factor. I know some guys have issues with some of these parts house like Autozone but it's convenient for me and fast.
I'd rather be Trap Shooting then getting greasy any day but you do what yo gotta do!

Great threads guys, when I grew up you had to learn it the hard way and I'm always leary about things "So Easy" and then things just don't go that way and you're stuck in the middle of it and have to fight it you know?
Some of you may not realize/appreciate what a LUXURY this site really is! Thanks Again ~

Well put JK

and once again hats off to Joe and all those who look after us here (and keep us in line). There's plenty of other car/truck sites but few as knowledgeable and friendly with it.

I've never been to Cali but I vividly remember the Frank Zappa song "Flakes" all about the SoCal car ripoff joints. I'm real happy to have a couple of good garages round here to rely on when I get in over my head. Even a fairly honest stealership or two around here.

As much as I like them I will not give them a gravy job like brakes to do. You can just save too much money doing it yourself with non-OEM parts (like you say).

As for that special hub socket, I've seen them at the Advance site for under $10.00. You gotta realize you'll save enough money first time out doing your brakes to pay for safety stands and the socket.

When you get to your bearings you'll have already paid for the tools and have em' ready to go.

Here's a link to the Timken bearing install I did for you and GTRider(check out how cheack you can get real US built Timkens for);

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=4970&s=17982#content

Make sure you splurge an extra buck and get synthetic grease for them so they last.

Good luck

Sixlitre
 

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Thanks!
Yeah I know I grew up back east, people are different here in some ways it takes a while to tune in.
The torque spec's for mine are in the Haynes book I assume? Might as well spring for a few extra tools I guess, won't be the last time I do this job I'm sure. Autozone carries the"Timken" brand I was surprised.

Thanks Again Guys ~
 

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Practicing Infidel
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JKossarides said:
Thanks!
Yeah I know I grew up back east, people are different here in some ways it takes a while to tune in.
The torque spec's for mine are in the Haynes book I assume? Might as well spring for a few extra tools I guess, won't be the last time I do this job I'm sure. Autozone carries the"Timken" brand I was surprised.

Thanks Again Guys ~
Yeah it's the procedure that's as important as the torque spec. Reef her down to the given torque to seat them and then back off a 1/4 turn, then down to the secondary lighter torque IIRC !

Sixlitre
 

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Sixlitre: I looked in the Haynes last nite in Chpt.8 sec.20-28 and I didn't see any torque numbers for mine. It refers to 87 earlier models with a Dana but I don't have that.
Rule of thumb then would be what? 70lbs to seat and back off 1/4 turn then reseat at 15-20lbs?
I not familair with some of the terms they use, IFS?
Thanks.
 

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Lick my balls
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I don't go by the book anymore. I got tired of retorquing my hubs a week later. Now I just torque to about 90lbs. spin the rotor about a dozen times each way, then I back it of until it is loose and retighten by feel. I've been doing it this way for years now, and I've never had to retighten the hubs again.
 

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Waltman & Stangmata501: that sounds reasonable! Thanks!

Steve83: I looked at your great hub pics, but where is the "sig" located? I didn't see any torque numbers.

Thanks
 
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