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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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Discussion Starter #1
So I've been driving my rig a lot lately (woo hoo!) and I've noticed that the ride is pretty rough. I have original springs all around but the front has some pretty old shocks (dual quad setup). There is almost zero "front end dive" when I come to a stop, even a hard stop. I don't want a lot of dive, but I feel like there should be some, right?

So I think I should just get new shocks in the front, and maybe new progressive rate springs. (I know I'll need an alignment again - I just got one ugh) Should I go to one shock on each side and just ignore the second position, or just replace all four and hope it's not too stiff? Maybe get one for each side and see how it feels? Any advice on this?


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Your shocks may be slightly bent or otherwise internally obstructed and no longer can compress properly... Either way, old shocks are not your friend. I'm replacing all four of mine - KYB has some monotubes that work well and can be had pretty cheaply off Amazon.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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2,928 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
KYB has some monotubes that work well and can be had pretty cheaply off Amazon.

I've seen the KYBs on Amazon - I actually have them bookmarked oddly enough. If those are good units, I may do it. I do feel like my old shocks don't travel right or something. You'd think old shocks would be all sloppy and bouncy, but not these.



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Shocks can stiffen up with age, and even lock up. The only time it would get bouncy is if the seals on the shocks leak

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Yo MS88Bronc,
"The “bounce test” requires some effort. Go to one corner of the car and push down. When you let go, the car should bounce up, then settle back to at-rest height. If the car bounces more than twice, you most likely need new shocks." ny NAPA, read more tests @ Testing Your Shocks: How Much Bounce Is Too Much?
...

Changed from OEM shocks to KYB Gas-a-just on 8 JAN 2002; they were much better than stock over road & bridge expansion joints/strips, RR tracks, etc.
However, within a year they began to rust on the tubes; contacted company and they said the rust is Not normal but would not honor a return or offer an adjustment.


I saved the KYB E mails!
Thursday, February 12, 2004 11:36 AM
Subject: K Y B TECHNICAL AND CONSUMER REPORT REQUEST
Our KYB GAS-A-JUST shocks are rusting quite a lot at the
top they are only 20 months old. Is this covered under your Lifetime Warranty?

Reply; From Troy H @ KYB
No
This can happen due to winter (salt use on the roads)
--
So, I could have battled, but they win; as in the case foir most warranties because I would have had to remove them from the DD 96...
Since I "purchased from an un-authorized KYB distributor" (but the store WAS AUTHORIZED KYB Distributor when bought!)... lol...
KYB Warranty disclaimer @ https://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/shock-tech-for-pros/warranty-warranty-instructions/
Keep the purchase receipt.
 

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I have the KYB mono tube and have no complaints and am happy with them. I also have the quad shock set up and recently remove the "auxiliary" shock which is the front most one. It does ride smoother that way
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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2,928 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I have the KYB mono tube and have no complaints and am happy with them. I also have the quad shock set up and recently remove the "auxiliary" shock which is the front most one. It does ride smoother that way

Good to know. Kinda leaning that way...


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I'm planning on putting a custom front bumper on the truck so having the dual quad shocks still on there should help it deal with the extra weight on the nose.
 

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About 5yrs ago I put a full set of Monroe Sensi Track shocks on my 88 with quad shocks. Shocks typically are good for about 60,000mi I've been told. The Monroe's made a world of difference in the ride. I haven't noticed any front end dive while braking I have to say. Hard braking? God help me If I have to brake hard! Even tho the pads, shoes, and tires are good, If I had an emergency braking situation I'd be screwed! Bronco brakes suck! Monroe's website will help you with the quad setup. Good luck!:thumbup

MONROE® SHOCKS & STRUTS :: Ride Safe with the Industry Leader of Ride Control Products
 

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Even tho the pads, shoes, and tires are good, If I had an emergency braking situation I'd be screwed! Bronco brakes suck!
Eh, out of the box with the original spec stuff they did, but even with stock calipers and rotors there's a lot you can do to improve them with modern materials. Better pad/shoe materials, stainless hoses, etc., are inexpensive and effective upgrades - what'd you replace the pads and shoes with on your rig?
 

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Eh, out of the box with the original spec stuff they did, but even with stock calipers and rotors there's a lot you can do to improve them with modern materials. Better pad/shoe materials, stainless hoses, etc., are inexpensive and effective upgrades - what'd you replace the pads and shoes with on your rig?
Yano, I've been driving the 88 daily since 2004. I've had the brakes done prolly 4 times in the 122,000mi I've put on it since 2004. Never once since I got it have I replaced the rear shoes or drums. That tells me that only the front brakes are doing all the work. If the rotors were scored, they got replaced with new from the local auto parts stores. The front pads have always been ceramic. I most recently replaced the brake master cylinder and both rear brake cylinders after the bleeders broke while bleeding the system. Yes, I bench bled the cylinder. When I pulled the drums off, the rear shoes looked very nice with hardly any wear. There was a minimal amount of brake dust inside the drums. I don't think those rear brakes have ever been adjusted correctly in the 13yrs I've been driving it! After the master cylinder replacement I took it out for a test drive. Got it up to about 35mph and slammed on the brakes as hard as I could. It never once locked up the wheels. It's a good thing my trips to work and back are on mostly country roads with minimal stops. If I lived in a big city and worked there, things would be very different!
 

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I'd recommend the KYB monomaxes for front and rear, and skip the aux (front) shock. They ride just like the old Bilstein 4600s I had. STIFF, though. Also do the springs if you can swing the sixty bucks. I got an inch and a half lift outta mine, and the ride is a lot more solid on the freeway.

 
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