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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Okay, I ordered either one set or four sets of anti-rattle springs ... RockAuto makes it very unclear if it's the usual 4 per package and what the minimum qty is, but at least they're cheap, so I'll either have enough or extras. I also ordered two piston seal kits and front brake lines, as those are getting pretty dry rotted. And an extra set of caliper slide pins, just in case I ever lose one... As long as I have to bleed the brakes, I might as well do it all.
 

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I would rephrase that as, you most definitely should have them. I haven't had them for my 5 years of ownership, and haven't had any issues until this week.



1) There's no fresh fluid anywhere that I can see, the master cylinder is still full, and the passenger side pad is still snug against the rotor, so I don't think so. Whatever it is appears to be limited to the driver's side caliper.

2) That would result in an external leak, right? The seals don't look great -- should definitely get a rebuild kit at some point -- but I'd have to say no, for the same reasons as given in #1.

3) I can tell by reaching through the wheel that that pad isn't moving. On the driver's side, it easily moves about in the caliper.
If the piston were leaking, you should see fluid.
On the master cylinder, there's an internal seal between the front and rear sections of the piston. If it went bad, fluid would not leak out of the cylinder, it would just pass back and forth inside the cylinder. Braking pressure would be diminished, particularly in the front.
Guess you'll find out when you get the clips.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
On the master cylinder, there's an internal seal between the front and rear sections of the piston. If it went bad, fluid would not leak out of the cylinder, it would just pass back and forth inside the cylinder. Braking pressure would be diminished, particularly in the front.
I'll definitely keep that in mind, as it wouldn't have been an obvious thing. I don't think it's an issue, though... There was no loss of braking power, and the passenger side presumably would have been similarly affected by a MC issue.
 

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1987 Ford Bronco, beefed up 351w, JBG HD rear springs, JBG 4” coil, 10.25 rear posi, Dana 44 posi
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I'll definitely keep that in mind, as it wouldn't have been an obvious thing. I don't think it's an issue, though... There was no loss of braking power, and the passenger side presumably would have been similarly affected by a MC issue.
I was thinking the same thing. If that seal was blown or leaking then both front brakes would be affected. Also brake hoses can do some weird things when they’re old. I just replaced one on my friends excursion that had completely cut-off fluid going to the passenger caliper to it would swerve hard to the left when you hit the brakes.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Also brake hoses can do some weird things when they’re old. I just replaced one on my friends excursion that had completely cut-off fluid going to the passenger caliper to it would swerve hard to the left when you hit the brakes.
I'd be happy if it turns out to be something like that ... replacing lines that are past due, and solve a problem in the process!
 

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After all this, i'd go with the dry-rotted lines and the anti-rattle clips, then see where you are.
Those are known problems, always fix the known problems first.
 
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Unsure of the amount of applicability but will drop it here for reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Unsure of the amount of applicability but will drop it here for reference.
Very useful, thanks. I figured I would be searching next week for pictures of how the clips go on...
 

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Hubs locked in 4 wheel drive position? And it makes the same noise when the hubs are unlocked? My 1986 made a piping noice when my passenger side hub was locked in. I changed out my warm hubs, and my noise went away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hubs locked in 4 wheel drive position? And it makes the same noise when the hubs are unlocked? My 1986 made a piping noice when my passenger side hub was locked in. I changed out my warm hubs, and my noise went away.
Yeah, I tested later with them unlocked and there was no change, i.e., the noise was still present.

In my case, the noise came about shortly after replacing the factory hub locks with MileMarkers, which is likely coincidental but concerning.

The new parts arrived late today, but it's a pretty good soaker at the moment. It's likely to be that way all weekend, but I'm sure I'll get impatient and dive in.

Popping noise, can’t spell
Better an "i" than a double-o. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Well, I installed an anti-rattle clip on the inner pad (as discussed in @packagerjr 's linked thread, only one clip goes on the inner pad and none on the outer), and despite my skepticism that that would cure the newfound noise, it actually did!

I suppose it makes sense that the forward-back movement of the outer pad wouldn't create a rhythmic knocking, as it should always be pushed forward by dragging on the rotor while turning. So, despite it producing a similar noise, it's the inner pad moving in and out that was making the racket.

I needed the Bronco up and running today, so I figured I would test just that one step before tearing apart the calipers and brake lines.
 
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