Swing, and a miss! ...
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
yo
one strike but you still have some balls left!:thumbup
Think the park lts are fed by Brown wire & Black as da Grnd; the directional portion should be White/Blue
Have a meter or test light to see if you have 12V there?
The HD switch is a likely problem because of this;
Switch Fires, Part Number SW-2103: "...Over the past two years, this office has experienced fires caused by another potential problem in Ford vehicles. The problem exists within the dimmer portion of the headlight switch in Ford vehicles. The light switch involved is a Model SW-2103. These are the pull out type headlight switches usually located in the lower left corner of the front dash of Ford vehicles. The headlight portion of the switch has two pullout positions, the first for parking lights only, and fully out for headlights and parking lights. The shaft of this pull-out light switch can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise which activates a dimmer switch, lowering and raising the intensity of the lighting in the instrument panels respectively. Fully rotating the shaft counterclockwise past a notch activates the interior lights within the vehicles. The potential problem exists within the dimmer portion of this switch. The dimmer mechanism consists of a metallic resistive coil set inside a ceramic disc positioned over the shaft of the switch. The coil is exposed on its front side away from the passenger compartment. The front side of the coil passes across a contact permitting a current to flow through a certain portion of the coil when the switch is pulled our in its first or second positions. The greater amount of coil through which the current is permitted to pass (clockwise most position) creates the greatest resistance and therefore dims the dash lighting to its lowest intensity. The opposite position provides greatest intensity. Through our investigations, we have found that the coil can fail owing to wear and/or possible material defects or damage. A fractured coil can maneuver itself free of the ceramic disc permitting it to come in contact with the metal bracket which mounts and grounds the switch to the vehicle. When this occurs, a current can flow through a portion of the coil creating high temperatures melting the metal material of the coil and possibly igniting surrounding combustibles. This mechanism has been observed in three separate incidents by this office. Two of these resulted in a fire. The mechanism is precipitated by wear and/or defect in the coil mechanism. If the former is true, we expect there will be an increase in fires caused through this mechanism given an increase in service time. To this date the problem appears to be somewhat limited. However, this particular light switch has been utilized in numerous Ford vehicles. Therefore, a small increase in failure rate owing to age and wear could result in a significant increase in fire losses. The SW-2103 Light Switch Assembly discussed above is reportedly installed in the following Ford vehicles: 1986 -1997 F100, F150, F300; 1990-1994 Explorer; 1987-1994 Ranger; 1987-1990 Bronco II; 1992-1997 Aerostar..." Miesk5 NOTE: No Bronco Listed, but this may be the result of typos or incomplete research by the company.
Source: by waltersforensic.com
Diff fuses for power door locks and rear window
Diagram in a 90
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at SuperMotors.net
-----------====
for power door locks ; see some TS and wiring Links (87-89 should be same for your 90) in,my Site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=115
==========
same for Tail Gate window Motor; my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=478
esp;
Steve83's Info, wiring diagrams and da mac daddy..
Repair Synopsis; "...Be aware that: The tailgate latch switch on the driver's side seems to be a common problem, check it early. It keeps the window from being moved when the tailgate is open, & if not latched right, it'll keep the window from working at all. Try pushing the driver's side of the tailgate in while holding the button or key switch in the up or down position. If that makes it work, check out Steve83's How to align a Bronco Tailgate linked below. Ground for the motor connects up front, & at rest runs from there through both switches & both wires to the motor. When either switch is operated, 1 side's ground is disconnected & replaced by hot at that switch. Ground for the motor is not connected to it's case, but supplied through the wires. There are 2 seperate power sources & 2 fuses/circuit breakers for positive. 1 for each switch. The same 2 wires are used throughout for both up & down (Polarity is reversed by the switches). When the tailgate is open, you have to close the driver's side latch for the window to operate. Remember to open it before closing the tailgate. Testing: Does it make any noise at all? Like the motor's turning, but the window doesn't move? If so, there are torque pins in the motor's drive gear that commonly break & aren't too bad to replace. See the torque pin, Steve83's & Adrianspeeder's ... links. If it makes no noise, then it's probably in the electrical system. Fireguy50's wiring diagram is linked.... To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector (Yellow & red wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works. To lower the window, it should be positive to red, & negative to yellow. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing). A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests: A.1- With both switches at rest & the latch switch closed, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.2- With the latch switch closed, connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.3- If everything tests ok, but it still doesn't run, there's a couple more possible causes to check: -Sometimes the connector for the tailgate motor will test ok, but not make contact when plugged in. You might try backprobing the motor side wires with the plug connected. On mine I removed it & soldered the connections. -It's possible for a damaged wire to carry enough load to show 12v on a tester, but not enough to operate the motor. Look for worn areas, especially in the loom between the body & the tailgate. B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links above for the torque pin replacement. C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's ...link ... & use the info for removing & replacing the motor. On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors . Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor..."
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB
one strike but you still have some balls left!:thumbup
Think the park lts are fed by Brown wire & Black as da Grnd; the directional portion should be White/Blue
Have a meter or test light to see if you have 12V there?
The HD switch is a likely problem because of this;
Switch Fires, Part Number SW-2103: "...Over the past two years, this office has experienced fires caused by another potential problem in Ford vehicles. The problem exists within the dimmer portion of the headlight switch in Ford vehicles. The light switch involved is a Model SW-2103. These are the pull out type headlight switches usually located in the lower left corner of the front dash of Ford vehicles. The headlight portion of the switch has two pullout positions, the first for parking lights only, and fully out for headlights and parking lights. The shaft of this pull-out light switch can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise which activates a dimmer switch, lowering and raising the intensity of the lighting in the instrument panels respectively. Fully rotating the shaft counterclockwise past a notch activates the interior lights within the vehicles. The potential problem exists within the dimmer portion of this switch. The dimmer mechanism consists of a metallic resistive coil set inside a ceramic disc positioned over the shaft of the switch. The coil is exposed on its front side away from the passenger compartment. The front side of the coil passes across a contact permitting a current to flow through a certain portion of the coil when the switch is pulled our in its first or second positions. The greater amount of coil through which the current is permitted to pass (clockwise most position) creates the greatest resistance and therefore dims the dash lighting to its lowest intensity. The opposite position provides greatest intensity. Through our investigations, we have found that the coil can fail owing to wear and/or possible material defects or damage. A fractured coil can maneuver itself free of the ceramic disc permitting it to come in contact with the metal bracket which mounts and grounds the switch to the vehicle. When this occurs, a current can flow through a portion of the coil creating high temperatures melting the metal material of the coil and possibly igniting surrounding combustibles. This mechanism has been observed in three separate incidents by this office. Two of these resulted in a fire. The mechanism is precipitated by wear and/or defect in the coil mechanism. If the former is true, we expect there will be an increase in fires caused through this mechanism given an increase in service time. To this date the problem appears to be somewhat limited. However, this particular light switch has been utilized in numerous Ford vehicles. Therefore, a small increase in failure rate owing to age and wear could result in a significant increase in fire losses. The SW-2103 Light Switch Assembly discussed above is reportedly installed in the following Ford vehicles: 1986 -1997 F100, F150, F300; 1990-1994 Explorer; 1987-1994 Ranger; 1987-1990 Bronco II; 1992-1997 Aerostar..." Miesk5 NOTE: No Bronco Listed, but this may be the result of typos or incomplete research by the company.
Source: by waltersforensic.com
Diff fuses for power door locks and rear window
Diagram in a 90
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at SuperMotors.net
-----------====
for power door locks ; see some TS and wiring Links (87-89 should be same for your 90) in,my Site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=115
==========
same for Tail Gate window Motor; my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=478
esp;
Steve83's Info, wiring diagrams and da mac daddy..
Repair Synopsis; "...Be aware that: The tailgate latch switch on the driver's side seems to be a common problem, check it early. It keeps the window from being moved when the tailgate is open, & if not latched right, it'll keep the window from working at all. Try pushing the driver's side of the tailgate in while holding the button or key switch in the up or down position. If that makes it work, check out Steve83's How to align a Bronco Tailgate linked below. Ground for the motor connects up front, & at rest runs from there through both switches & both wires to the motor. When either switch is operated, 1 side's ground is disconnected & replaced by hot at that switch. Ground for the motor is not connected to it's case, but supplied through the wires. There are 2 seperate power sources & 2 fuses/circuit breakers for positive. 1 for each switch. The same 2 wires are used throughout for both up & down (Polarity is reversed by the switches). When the tailgate is open, you have to close the driver's side latch for the window to operate. Remember to open it before closing the tailgate. Testing: Does it make any noise at all? Like the motor's turning, but the window doesn't move? If so, there are torque pins in the motor's drive gear that commonly break & aren't too bad to replace. See the torque pin, Steve83's & Adrianspeeder's ... links. If it makes no noise, then it's probably in the electrical system. Fireguy50's wiring diagram is linked.... To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector (Yellow & red wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works. To lower the window, it should be positive to red, & negative to yellow. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing). A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests: A.1- With both switches at rest & the latch switch closed, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.2- With the latch switch closed, connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.3- If everything tests ok, but it still doesn't run, there's a couple more possible causes to check: -Sometimes the connector for the tailgate motor will test ok, but not make contact when plugged in. You might try backprobing the motor side wires with the plug connected. On mine I removed it & soldered the connections. -It's possible for a damaged wire to carry enough load to show 12v on a tester, but not enough to operate the motor. Look for worn areas, especially in the loom between the body & the tailgate. B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links above for the torque pin replacement. C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's ...link ... & use the info for removing & replacing the motor. On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors . Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor..."
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB
yo,
yeah the HD fire issue doesn't specifically address the park lts. but they get so hot contacts and such go South.
I'd try the voltage tests at the light connectors first. That way you can isnpect the conns/wiring for corrosion etc.
Turn, Tail, Brake, Head Light, Hazard, Ignition Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco & F-Series; "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
btw, I thought that I had mentioned this. but now i see I didn't; my 96 won't get the parking lt to work in the PL detent position; I had the SW out 2 yrs ago to ck the PSOM.
yeah the HD fire issue doesn't specifically address the park lts. but they get so hot contacts and such go South.
I'd try the voltage tests at the light connectors first. That way you can isnpect the conns/wiring for corrosion etc.
Turn, Tail, Brake, Head Light, Hazard, Ignition Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco & F-Series; "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
btw, I thought that I had mentioned this. but now i see I didn't; my 96 won't get the parking lt to work in the PL detent position; I had the SW out 2 yrs ago to ck the PSOM.
Update For Archive Searches ...
Okay! So it wasn't a bad Headlight Switch after all ... it was a bad fuse. Fuse #4.
Apparently a common symptom when fuse #4 pops is you can still turn on the parking lights, but you have to get the knob pulled just right ... Obviously that is incorrect; replace #4 fuse and problem is solved ... What seemed like it was defective contacts in the headlight switch, was just a blown fuse as illustrated below. :banghead :toothless
Although, both parking lights up front were rightly cooked. The main filaments for the parking lights (3157 bulbs) were vapor; Hence on and so forth blah blah, the reason the blinkers still worked, but not the parking lights in unison with the tails. The Previous Owner was an idiot with electrical, it seems? :argue
Now off to tackle the dead door locks and rear window switch ... he neglected ....
(My Chilton and Haynes repair manuals lack the wiring schematic for some of these wires... Why??????)
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Okay! So it wasn't a bad Headlight Switch after all ... it was a bad fuse. Fuse #4.
Apparently a common symptom when fuse #4 pops is you can still turn on the parking lights, but you have to get the knob pulled just right ... Obviously that is incorrect; replace #4 fuse and problem is solved ... What seemed like it was defective contacts in the headlight switch, was just a blown fuse as illustrated below. :banghead :toothless
Although, both parking lights up front were rightly cooked. The main filaments for the parking lights (3157 bulbs) were vapor; Hence on and so forth blah blah, the reason the blinkers still worked, but not the parking lights in unison with the tails. The Previous Owner was an idiot with electrical, it seems? :argue
Now off to tackle the dead door locks and rear window switch ... he neglected ....
(My Chilton and Haynes repair manuals lack the wiring schematic for some of these wires... Why??????)
Ah, now you're talkin'! I'm gonna pick one up right now ....... Although with the current Congress, perhaps I could petition them to create legislation that says, 'All Ford truck owners are entitled to one' ... Then I get it for "free"!
Well, it is bright inside my garage, but I took the time to create a dark pocket with my hands together and pressed up against the instrument cluster. And then I leaned in slowly and peered into my dark palms. There was no illumination from the dash lights, so the lights were out too .... Unless the light saw my big eye sneaking up and so it snuck out first? Doubt it? ....
Ahhhh, now this is a good idea. I actually saw a guy doing this once, but didn't retain it in my grey matter for some reason?> I guess I reserved that space for more important things in life like naked women>? :twak
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