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Discussion Starter #1
I'm just beginning to build my Fseries long travel truck. By the end of the week i want to order the majority of the parts and pickup the steel for my front suspension setup. Its going to be a twin I-beam kingpin setup. This truck WILL be driven on the road. Too start am I better off with coil springs and Bypass shocks, or just coilovers. Eventually of course i plan on running coilovers AND bypass shocks, but to get started i was going to wait to order one or the other. Planning on running 14 or 16" travel shocks. Im more interested in suspension quality over whoops I don't plan on jumping it anytime soon. I know the majority of handling comes from tuning but please let me know what your opinion is.
Also, this is a big block truck so it has some added weight up front.
 

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Well with what you plan you could probably be fine with a good set of lift coils and some good bypass shocks mounted in front of them.Being as the coils are a single rate spring and not dual like a coilover the bypasses would make it more ride sensitive adjustable.Just beef up the upper coil bucket and maybe have a removable crossover tube that goes over the engine and ties the two buckets together would probably do the trick.And dont forget extended radius arms and limit straps.Ive seen this setup work very well and give a guy plenty quality travel for fun play.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well with what you plan you could probably be fine with a good set of lift coils and some good bypass shocks mounted in front of them.Being as the coils are a single rate spring and not dual like a coilover the bypasses would make it more ride sensitive adjustable.Just beef up the upper coil bucket and maybe have a removable crossover tube that goes over the engine and ties the two buckets together would probably do the trick.And dont forget extended radius arms and limit straps.Ive seen this setup work very well and give a guy plenty quality travel for fun play.
Thanks for your input
and yeah i want to do it right and build completely new coil buckets, engine cage, and equal length extended i beams as well as extended radius arms and of course limit straps. I mean i'm not going to race it cause theres nothing going on on this side of the country for that type of racing, but eventually i do want to move the engine and have both a coilover and a bypass shock at all 4 corners. So I am almost leaning towards just coilovers for now so i can just add bypass's later on, instead of rebuilding the shock mounts/coil buckets. But that might not be for a little while so if a good set of lift coils and bypass shocks would be more beneficial than just coilovers, i may just head that route for now.

I am that guy that can't help but push everything to the limit and isn't happy until things don't break at WOT, so I might just suck it up and buy both now, but in case i don't i wanted to ask people with experience in this type of sport cause its one thing there's not much of locally.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
At the same time i see a lot of people running coilovers alone, looks like you are too, so i would imagine i'd have better performance with them, no?
 

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Ya if your thinking of getting that extensive into it. Go for it and start with some 14" travel coilovers like I have.I love the ride they give ya and my cycles 17" travel.With the Big Block you may want to step up to a 3" coilover and the advantage is I believe some of them have a built in bump system in the shock.Kings I believe do on there 3" coilover.And now they have a clicker adjustable compression knob resi you can get.That and the right springs you may not need the bypasses.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also do you know what the weight is of the front of your truck? Just so i can adjust for how my truck has more weight up front from a bronco and go from there, as far as ordering proper spring rates go.
 

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No idea on weight. I have glass hood,fenders,and lighter tube core support. If I remember I have 500 over 550 coils. I would contact the shock manufacter and ask them for your application.The guys at king I know are very familiar with what a TTB bronco/pickup needs. Valving as well.You will want them to valve them for your rig too.The combination of the 2 will help alot for how it rides etc.Before you tear into your rig you may want to find some feed store scales or a DOT scale and see what it weighs on the front,back,and gross weight so you can give them that info.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No idea on weight. I have glass hood,fenders,and lighter tube core support. If I remember I have 500 over 550 coils. I would contact the shock manufacter and ask them for your application.The guys at king I know are very familiar with what a TTB bronco/pickup needs. Valving as well.You will want them to valve them for your rig too.The combination of the 2 will help alot for how it rides etc.Before you tear into your rig you may want to find some feed store scales or a DOT scale and see what it weighs on the front,back,and gross weight so you can give them that info.
Alright my friends have a farm with a heavy duty scale, not sure if its heavy duty enough though. I know they use it every day and my truck im doing this to is not on the road now. But i'll definately figure it out either with that scale or another. I do know people that race at the local oval track, now that i'm thinking about it, maybe one of them has scales or ideas

Thanks for all your replies yogib

Hopefully my last question for a while,

Why do i see most radius arms are pretty much straight to the beam, and than the mount to the beam is on an angle towards the engine. Does this have to do with how the beams travel?
Thanks for all your replies yogib
 

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That is for tire clearance.Stock radius arms dont have a problem with clearance because there so short(or should i say not AS much of a problem).But when you add 15" to the length then tire rub is a issue.Mine rub a little as do most guys when at full lock.With 35" or bigger tires.And your welcome for the info.Glad to help a fellow TTB ford guy.Even if it isnt a FSB. lol.
 

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For the camber thrust to be working with you in the corners, the top of the tire should be tipped in the direction that you want to turn. This is the basic reason that a circle track race car has positive camber on the left front wheel and negative camber on the right front wheel. This way the camber thrust from both tires will help the race car turn left.
 
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