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Discussion Starter #1
Since this is my first front end tear down and repair I thought the noob section might be best to ask for some guidance! :whiteflag

Bronco is a 96..I started tearing my front end apart to replace a bad u joint on the passenger side. After getting the right tools to disassemble the hubs, spindles and reading multiple threads on the tear down, I've managed to get everything out. so far here is what I've found that needs replacing:

Brake rotors, u joints, bearings, and seals and brake pads.

Nearly every bearing and ujoint was dry and or fell apart when I pulled everything out. I dropped the 3rd member (surprisingly it wasn't as hard as the articles I read made it out to be!) Putting it back may make me retract that statement! The 3rd member looked really good inside and everything looked clean and shiny, I plan to take a few measurements and make sure everything is still with in spec before I put it back in.

As usual, I can't buy much of anything i need locally. So far Broncograveyard.com seems to have everything I need, just wanted to see if there is anything else I should get, or look at.

Ball joints look good, they appear to have been replaced not too long ago.

I'd like to do the C-clip removal in the 3rd member and replace it with the spring, just not too sure where the welding portion is just yet. I'm working on finding a suitable spring just in case i go that direction.

Right now my cart has 2 full rotors with races installed, hub and rotor bearing install kit (says I need it for the rotor/hubs I selected) which has inner and outer wheel bearings and hubseals. I dont see a kit that has ALL the seals and bearing I need. Does anyone know if this is even possible to get in kit form, or will I need to order each seal and bearing separate?

Is there any other website you may know of that has all the parts in kit form? Thanks in advance for the help!
 

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Man you are out in AK. I bet you cant find anything local. I dont know what the install kit is you are referring to. If the races are already in the hubs then the bearings just lay in there. You may need a 4wd socket to remove the spindle nut unless you are handy with a hammer and screwdriver. Does O'reilly's or Advanced auto have online ordering with shipping? You may want to explore that option.

I dont know if you get a kit or not. You may even try to find out what the bearing and race numbers are and try find them from an industrial supplier like Baileys . If I remember right there was a bearing place online that was dirt cheap. The old bearings and races should have all the numbers on them for ID. I will check the machine builders network and try to get a link for it. Most bearing places have seals as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea, Cordova is off the beaten path! We have a NAPA, but they almost never have what you need. And if they do it's twice as much as the lower 48 states price.

I dont want to order parts I don't need. Broncograveyard.com has the full rotor/hub assembly with races, and a bearing kit for those rotors. So I think all I need now is the spindle bearing, inner and outer seal, and the 3rd member seals and bearing. (still tracking down what I need for the 3rd member)

I found this thread and seems to have most of the parts I need listed.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102256

I may take the axles and 3rd member to a mechanic and have him press the u joints in for me. He said he could do it for 50 bucks. I had a spare axle from an 86 that I practiced removing the ujoints on. it was a PITA using sockets and a BFH. 50 bucks sounds cheap for 3 joints and an inspection on the 3rd member housing)
 

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I'm all for DIY but I always have the local machinist press my U joints for me! 50 bucks sounds like it's worth the headache of getting it done right and without breaking a thumb with an errant hammer swing!
 

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if you had a advanceauto or something with a laoner tool program, they got presses you can use. you pay for it and when you return it, its free however i dont think NAPA does that. i used a big ass vise and pressed mine in that way. advance auto might has free shipping and maby online coupons if you order from them. if the rotors had races in them, then jsut use whats in there and not worry bout tapping in the new race. are you going to do the axle shaft u joints? or jsut driveshaft u-joints? definitly get the 4x4 1/2 ton spindle nut wrench. mine was 15$ and its 300% easier than a hammer and you wont chnace having the bearings too tight or too loose.im guessing you already have manual hubs? thats all i can think of ATM
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The guys down at NAPA are nice, they loaned me the spanner socket to get spindle nut removed. (temporarily until they got one in to sell me :doh0715: )
No biggie, I figured I would need it in the tool box anyways.

I redid the drive shaft ujoints myself about 2 years ago. I went with the greasable style, I just have to remember to hit them up once an a while. So far they look good. So this time it will only be the front 3 axle joints.

Yes, I do have a set of Mile marker manuals on now. So far they have held up. I have set of warns , but they are the 1/4 turn. Not sure if I want to swap them over just yet.

I'm trying to put my shopping list together now so I can save on shipping if I can get everything at one place.

So far:

1) rotor/hubs both sides (includes races) Not sure if I need an ABS toner ring? originals look fine. website says for 4x4 bronco with ABS, maybe it has the tone ring installed already?
2) 2x rotor bearing kit (inner and outer bearing + hub seal)
3) TTB D44 left axle seal
4) TTB D44 right side bearing kit (kit includes the bearing for the passenger side of the carrier housing that supports the axle.This kit also includes the seal and c-clip.)
5)2x brake pads
6) 3x u-Joints
7) new 3rd member mounting bolts (rounded 3 of them trying to get them out)
8) misc cleaners fluids

261.00 in rotors and d44 parts, 260.00 for shipping...ugh..:barf

I can't think of anything else I would need to put it all back together. Can you guys think of anything I might be missing? Still going to look around and see if I can get everything cheaper with slightly less shipping...

:beer sorry if this seems long winded! hard to get everything I'm thinking down sometimes!
 

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if it says for ABS then yes it will have the ring preinstalled. if not, on the old rotor, knock down the studs evenly till the ring pops off. i only broguth up the lockouts cause if you had autos, then now would be good to convert them. if your doing the axle shaft joint, then thats a pain i nthe ass cause i think you have to pull the spindle off which is not easy or fun and requires a spindle puller with a slide hammer and you will proablly have to beat the ABS sensor off. also ya thats is some crazy shiping charges! might wanna get some of those from advance autos site. they have free shipping (at least for me)
 

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yo,
Although the Ford dealer prices may be higher than NAPA, ADV Auto, etc. they will have all the seals + you need
See Ford @ http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1996&m=Ford&mo=Bronco#Search

re; ") rotor/hubs both sides (includes races) Not sure if I need an ABS toner ring? originals look fine. website says for 4x4 bronco with ABS, maybe it has the tone ring installed already?" the ring can be removed careully and re-used so save $ and remove it or take it to a shop or NAPA to remove and Replace.

Dana 44 Replacement, Front Wheel & Spindle Installation in a 96; w/Links
Source: by Ford via miesk5
We'll begin w/ the parts diagram first;
it is first attachment below;
3A329 Halfshaft
2 3C132 (Axle) Rolling Diaphragm Seal
3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal
4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle
5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
6 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (also called, OUTER)
7 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
8 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
9 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
10 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
11 — Pin (Part of 1195)
12 1195 Inner Lock Nut
13 1198 Lockwasher
14 1197 Outer Lock Nut
15 — Steel Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
16 — Plastic Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
17 — Splined Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
18 3B457 C-Ring
19 1K105 Hub Body
20 — Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
21 1K104 Cup
22 1K104 Capscrew
A — While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearing. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).
B — Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft)
C — Tighten to 4-6 Nm (35-53 Lb-In)
---
read what Tony R said;
Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA
Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA
Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009
http://www.napaonlin....+-+Front+Wheel
Item 7 is Napa NOS23276
Ford has replaced some of the numbers with seals that are not correct. When I did mine last year (96, not sure how closee to yours), the parts guy new his stuff and said when they crossed some numbers they didn't get it right. I went to five dealers and each had the same problem.
Don't go to Pep Boys and get the seals they sell. Even though they are Chicago Rawhide, same as Napa relabel, they are not the better ones. The parts they have are a very cheap version, which may work, but I wouldn't trust.
Napa had to order in the 25009, but they got it in a day.
As far as seal 3, the one I got new from Ford was one piece, but the one that came out broke into the three pieces. If you get the Ford one, you will see how easy it is to snap apart. Seal 2 is actually a smaller version of seal 6, but the oneFord parts guy said that they don't have a replacement. Fortunately Napa has one.
They have one part D3TZ3C132A that they try to sell. It is a metal slinger that could be pressed in place of seal 2, but it has no sealing properties, just a stamped part that looks like a washer with a lip where it slides over the axle"...
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Spindle, RH and LH Shaft and Joint Assembly
This is from FORD's 1996 F-150, F-250 4x4 and Bronco Workshop Manual............I have it repeated below for my Note placement.....& in case my pals remove it from the net.

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A
Bearing Cup Puller T77F-1102-A
Spindle Bearing Replacer T80T-4000-R
Spindle Bearing Replacer T80T-4000-S
Driver Handle T80T-4000-W
Spindle Seal Replacer T92T-4000-A
Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-E
Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-C
Driver Handle T83T-3132-A1
Shaft Seal Replacer T95T-3132-A
Shaft Seal Replacer T95T-3132-B
Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A
Removal

Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.

Remove the wheels (1007) and tires. Refer to Section 04-04.

On vehicles equipped with four-wheel anti-lock brakes, remove the front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) from the steering knuckle. Refer to Section 06-09B. Soak it a LOT w/PB BLaster or =... the sensor's mount (often called a shield) does break often so be careful
4WABS Sensor, Front Wheel Location pic & Shield Location pic on Spindle, Front Wheel in 93-96 Bronco; Note, driver's side pn is 44619 LH by SigEpBlue (Steve)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck)

CAUTION: After removal, the disc brake caliper (2B120) must be wired to the frame or otherwise supported to prevent suspending the disc brake caliper by the flexible hose. If securing the disc brake caliper is not practical, disconnect the brake hose from the disc brake caliper. Plug the hose end to prevent fluid loss and entry of air into the system. Upon installation of the disc brake caliper, bleed the brake system as described in Section 06-00.

Remove the disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03. Securely wire the disc brake caliper to the frame.
Spindle and LH Shaft and Joint Installation, Typical

Item Part Number Description
1 3B403 Axle Arm (LH)
2 3219 Shaft
3 3C132 Axle Shaft Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS)
4 3249 Front Axle Shaft Universal Joint
5 87747-S2 Filler Plug
6 3A049 Nut
7 72035-S Pin
8 3049 Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint
9 3A050 Nut
10 3K050 Snap Ring
11 3050 Front Suspension Lower Ball Joint
12 3130 Steering Knuckle Assembly
13 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield
14 3299 Integral Spacer/Seal
15 3123 Caged Needle Bearing
16 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
17 35704 Nut
18 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS)
(F-150 and Bronco Only)
19 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
20 4221 Differential Bearing
21 4222 Differential Bearing Cup
22 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
23 — (Part of 1102) Hub
A — Tighten to 136 Nm
(100 Lb-Ft)
B — Tighten to 123-149 Nm
(91-110 Lb-Ft)
C — Tighten to 47 Nm (35 Lb-Ft) for Model 44 or 68-81 Nm (50-60 Lb-Ft) for Model 50.


RH Shaft and Joint Assembly Installation, Typical
Item Part Number Description
1 1175 Rolling Diaphragm Seal
2 3B400 Camber Adjuster
3 3B402 Right Support Arm
4 3B478 Keystone Clamp
5 3A466 Slip-Yoke and Stub Shaft
6 3B403 Left Axle Arm
7 3A429 Rubber Boot
8 3219 Right Shaft and Joint
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Remove hub locks, wheel bearings, and locknuts. Refer to Section 05-03C.
Automatic Locking Hub, F-150 and Bronco
Item Part Number Description
1 3A329 Halfshaft
2 3C132 Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS), Axle
3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal
4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle
5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
6 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (OUTER)
7 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
8 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
9 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
10 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
11 3B549 Wheel Retainer Key
12 — Steel Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
13 — Plastic Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
14 — Splined Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
15 1K104 Capscrew
16 1K104 Cap
17 — Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
18 1K105 Hub Body
19 3B457 C-Ring
20 — Cam Assembly (Part of 1K105)
21 — Wheel Retainer (Nut) (Part of 1K105)
A — Tighten to 4-6 Nm (35-53 Lb-In)
B — While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). Tighten to 1.8 Nm (16 Lb-In)
Removal

CAUTION: Do not drop hub components during removal and installation.
Separate cap from body assembly by removing the three capscrews, using Torx® bit TX25 or equivalent, from the cap.
Remove cap.
Remove the lock ring seated in the groove of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).
Remove the body assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor

If front disc brake hub and rotor and front wheel spindle (3105) are to be removed, refer to Wheel Grease Seal and Bearing, Front Replacement and Repacking in the Disassembly and Assembly portion of this section.
See my site under BRAKE, ROTOR & PAD for info LINKs @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=989
site should be back up soon, if not, a server and tekkie will have a problem with me

Remove the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102) and front wheel bearing (1216) from the front wheel spindle (3105).

Inspect the outer spindle hub rolling diaphragm seal for F-150 and Bronco only. If necessary, pry off using a screwdriver.

NOTE: Relieve the suction between the axle shaft rolling diaphragm seal (RDS) and the front wheel spindle by gently lifting the seal lip away from the back of the front wheel spindle which will allow the front wheel spindle to slip off the axle shaft.

Remove the nuts retaining the front wheel spindle to the steering knuckle. Tap the front wheel spindle with a nylon or rawhide hammer to jar the front wheel spindle from the knuckle. Remove the front disc brake rotor shield (2K004).

On the left side of the vehicle remove the shaft and joint assembly by pulling the assembly out of the carrier.

On the right side of the carrier, remove and discard the keystone clamp from the shaft and joint assembly and the stub shaft.

NOTE: Since the splines on the shaft are not phased, the shaft and joint assembly and slip-yoke must be marked to maintain U-joint phasing during assembly.


Slide the rubber boot onto the stub shaft. Mark the shaft and slip-yoke to maintain U-joint phasing during assembly. Pull the shaft and joint assembly from the splines of the stub shaft.

Item Part Number Description
1 3219 Shaft and Joint Assembly
2 3B478 Keystone Clamp
3 3A429 Boot
4 3220 Shaft and Joint Assembly

Remove rolling diaphragm seal from axle shaft.

Place the front wheel spindle in a vise on the second step of the front wheel spindle. Wrap a shop towel around the front wheel spindle or use a brass-jawed vise to protect the front wheel spindle.

Remove the integral spacer/seal and needle bearing from the front wheel spindle with Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A and Bearing Cup Puller T77F-1102-A.

Inspect the sealing surfaces of the front wheel spindle for severely corroded, pitted, worn or galled sealing surfaces. Replace front wheel spindle if damaged


Installation

Clean all dirt and grease from the bearing bore of the front wheel spindle. Bearing bores must be free from nicks and burrs.

NOTE: Replacement spindle bearings are shipped with a corrosion-preventive gel. This is not a lubricant. The bearing must be cleaned and replaced with the specified lubricant.

Install a new needle bearing with writing facing outward in the bore of the front wheel spindle with Spindle Bearing Replacer T80T-4000-R on the Dana 50, or T80T-4000-S for the Dana 44 and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W. Lubricate the bearing with High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.

Install a new integral spacer needle bearing seal. Pack spindle bearing with grease (see Step 2). Install seal with Seal Replacer T92T-4000-A and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W for Model 50. For Model 44, use Driver Handle T80T-4000-W and Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-E.
For F-150 and Bronco only, install outer spindle hub rolling diaphragm seal. Seat the rolling diaphragm seal by lightly tapping on the inner sheet metal lip of the seal with Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132C, Driver Handle T83T-3132-A1, and a hammer to make sure it is sealed squarely.

Install the rolling diaphragm seal on the axle shaft. The lip of the seal should face toward the front wheel spindle. Seat the rolling diaphragm seal by lightly tapping on the inner sheet metal lip of the seal with a Shaft Seal Replacer T95T-3132-A for F-150 and Bronco or T95T-3132-B for F-250, Driver Handle T83T-3132-A1, and a hammer to make sure it is seated fully and squarely.
Lightly coat the lips of the axle shaft rolling diaphragm seal (RDS) and the mating surface of the front wheel spindle with High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A
NOTE: Since the splines on the shaft are not phased, the shaft and joint assembly and slip-yoke must be marked to maintain U-joint phasing during assembly.

On the right side of the carrier, install the rubber boot and new keystone clamps on the stub shaft slip-yoke.

Align the mark (made during removal) in the slip-yoke barrel with the mark on the shaft and joint assembly.

Slide the right shaft and joint assembly through the knuckle and into the slip-yoke making sure the splines are fully engaged.

Slide the boot over the assembly and crimp the keystone clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.

On the left side of the carrier slide the shaft and joint through the knuckle and engage the splines on the shaft in the carrier.

NOTE: Make sure the grease seal lip totally encircles the front wheel spindle.


NOTE: Lightly coat the splindle RDS seal lip and its mating surface on the hub and rotor with High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.

Install the front disc brake rotor shield and front wheel spindle onto the steering knuckle. Install and tighten the nuts of the front wheel spindle to 68-81 Nm (50-60 lb-ft) for Model 50 axle or 47 Nm (35 lb-ft) for Model 44 axle.

CAUTION: Any dents or nicks in the can of the wheel bearing seal can prevent proper sealing.

Install the front disc brake hub and rotor on the front wheel spindle. Install the outer wheel bearing into the cup. Refer to Section 05-03C.

Install the wheel bearing, locknut, front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195), snap ring and locking hubs per Section 05-03C.

Install the disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03.

On vehicles equipped with four-wheel anti-lock brakes, install the front brake anti-lock sensor on the steering knuckle. Refer to Section 06-09B.

Fill front axle lubricant.

Remove the safety stands and lower the vehicle.
 

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I maxed-out on diagram uploads, so here are the rest;
 

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I just went through replacing just about everything you have listed, and ordered everything from JBG. Mine is a 96 as well, and they do ship all the correct grease seals and bearings. Since you're spending the extra dough, getting the new hubs with races installed will save you a TON of effort, just go get yourself a bearing packer and you're good to go. As for u-joints, my fronts were so seized that I couldn't even get them out. Not that you would go this route, but pulled both front and rear drive shafts and took them to a local truck repair shop and had them freshen both of them up. Balanced, new u-joints (i already supplied most of them), and sand blasted and cleaned up cost me about 125 bucks, and gave me no headache :). Just make sure you order all the correct TIMKEN bearings and grease seals and you'll be good to go. I also suggest def doing your spindle bearings at the same time, only another 6 bolts or so to get them off and I bet they are bad as well. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
miesk5- Holy :beer that's awesome, thanks for putting all that up!

Update: dropped the front diff and axle stubs off at the mechanic. Should have it back tomorrow or the next day.

NAPA had 2 new brake rotors, so I went ahead and grabbed them. 40.00 bucks on the shelf. Can't beat that!! After I pulled the old rotors apart, ABS ring looks good, and the spindles look good too. I will be replacing the spindle bearings while they are out. New brake pads and that should take care of the rotor assembly.

Once I get the front diff back, I plan to clean it all up and paint. Leaning towards the c-clip removal and spring. Dropping the front diff was not too bad, but I'm not looking forward to muscling it back into the truck myself. I see where the spring needs to go. If I read all the threads right, I need to weld a cap into the intermediate shaft yoke to keep the spring from popping out against the new Ujoint. still reading up on it before I go too far. Oh and tapping a bottom drain hole to make the next fluid change easy.

Round the project off with new seals and the rest of the bearings and I should be good to go. I've got a few progress pictures I will add tomorrow when I get my parts back. Thanks again for the help guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
WTH

Ok, so I got all the tools and parts in this week, spent a few hours last night getting all the races and bearings installed on the hubs, new rotors, new pads, new spindle bearings. I installed everything this morning and slapped the tires back on.

I took it for a test drive and had a slight metal rubbing noise on both sides of the truck. I was thinking it could be the new pads and rotors? I did a few hard stops to help wear the pads and rotors in. Noise still persisted. Just as I was pulling up to the house, I got a gawd awful high pitched squeal and worse rubbing noise. I pulled into the garage and noticed a burning smell and saw a little bit of white smoke coming from behind the tire on the passenger side.

Bearings and everything got packed with grease, double and triple checked all my torque on the spindle nuts, spindle lock nut. there wasn't any side to side or top to bottom play on the tire when I bolted the tire on. everything turned freely. Not sure what is going on. :banghead Any thoughts??
 

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yo,

crap!
Noise, Vibration and Harshness Inspection and Verification
Source: by Ford
Bearing rumble sounds like marbles being tumbled. This condition is usually caused by a malfunctioning wheel bearing. The lower pitch is the result of wheel bearings turning at only about one-third of driveshaft speed. Wheel bearing noise also may be high-pitched, similar to gear noise, but will be evident in all four driving modes.

I use this info to just help diagnose:
Vibration, Failed Bearings; "...Vibrations caused by bearings usually can be heard and felt. Bearings are usually under a load of some kind. Changing the load on the bearing should change the sound or amplitude of the vibration. A front wheel bearing's load changes when the steering wheel is turned back and forth while driving. Click here to learn more..."
Source: by vibratesoftware.com @ http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/2011/Diagnosis/Other_Causes_of_Vibrations.htm#Thermostatic

Load the left front and left rear wheel bearings by turn sharply to the right while driving. Listen for a noise change.
Load the right front and right rear wheel bearings by turn sharply to the left while driving. Listen for a noise change.
Load the front pinion bearing and the left differential side bearing by accelerating while driving. Listen for a noise change.
Load the rear pinion bearing and the right differential side bearing by decelerating while driving. Listen for a noise change

Bearings - If the bearing noise was louder while turning the vehicle right on the road test, inspect the bearings on the left side of the vehicle for roughness. Replace as necessary.
Bearings - If the bearing noise was louder while turning the vehicle left on the road test, inspect the bearings on the right side of the vehicle for roughness. Replace as necessary.
Bearings or Gears -If the bearing noise was louder while accelerating or decelerating vehicle on the road test, you probably have drive axle problems. click here to diagnose. You may also have a center support bearing failing on vehicles with multiple piece rear propshaf
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I pulled everything, inspected the bearings and spindle. Everything looked good. I rounded the damn spanner spindle nut and had to chisle it out. Thank gawd I didnt screw up the spindle threads. Tossed that spanner nut on both sides and swapped over to the castle nut/washer combo. I like that MUCH better already. Just need to verify that my lockout hubs will fit with the added thickness of the washer and castle nut.

I searched multiple threads and came across one that said his brake caliper pins (the slide in retainers) were rubbing the inside of the wheel rim. So I looked both tires over and shure-enuff the passenger tire was rubbing the damn pin. (metal sqeeling sound) Hard enough that it broke the pin in half. I must have mixed up the pins from my 86 parts truck. Doh. So it looks like I will just replace both calipers and put in new hardware to be safe. Inside of my tire rim has a nice score from the contact, but otherwise it looks fine.

Temp fix: Ground the pins down some, noise dissappeared. :banghead

So long as nothing else breaks, the final steps are top off the front diff, install hub lock outs, new calipers and hardware and ready for winter. Thanks everyone for the help, it's appreciated! :beer
 

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Discussion Starter #18
after replacing a few more parts, happy to say the bronco is back in action. till the next part failure...

 

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Sweet dude you got her back on the trail. Glad you got it done and its still not in pieces in the driveway.:rockonibtl
 
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