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Discussion Starter #1
I have used the search function, i did buy a chiltons and i did ask the guy at the parts store LOL...i have a few basic questions...

is my crankcase/oil capacity 5 or 6 qts??? Chiltons says 6, ORielly says 5
can i/should i substitute one quart of Lucas Oil conditioner when doing a oil change?

i bought 5 QTS of Mobil-non synth.- 10W30, i live in Texas and the truck is just to drive on the back roads on the weekends..no heavy duty towing or 4 wheeling (yet LOL)... i was TOLD that using synthetic would be too thin and cause it to burn off in my engine...should i go to a 40W?

lastly is there a way to remove the oil filter W/O spilling oil all over the block/manifolds?

i am using a Wix filter...thanks for your advice..
 

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My crankcase takes 6. Put 6 in and see where it is on the dipstick. I Always use 10-30 and have never had problems in cold or hot weather. The lucas conditioner is your call. There are so many opinions on it. I ran it in my old bronco and ranger but i ran out so now i use straight oil. the oil filter is easiest for me to remove from the top of the engine and lift it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My crankcase takes 6. Put 6 in and see where it is on the dipstick. I Always use 10-30 and have never had problems in cold or hot weather. The lucas conditioner is your call. There are so many opinions on it. I ran it in my old bronco and ranger but i ran out so now i use straight oil. the oil filter is easiest for me to remove from the top of the engine and lift it out.
thanks sir
 

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Discussion Starter #4
anyone use the standard mobil 10W30?? Is there an oil (oils) that are considered superior for the 351W, is my engine , w 75k on the clock , to old for synthtic?
 

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I run closer to 7 myself, but that's because I have a remote oil filter, or an oil filter that's mounted on the frame. There's a kit out there that lets you run oil lines from the stock filter mount to a frame rail mount so its easier and cleaner to change the filter.

As for oil, I use Rotella diesel 15w30(?). It actually works well in our old engines and helps keep them clean and gunk free without any sort of conditioner.
 

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I would use straight 30 wt. fully synthetic Mobil 1, your engine is not "too old" for synthetic, no engine is.
 

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No engine is too old for synthetic, but that said I use Mobil Super 10W-30. I change the oil every 2-3k miles (6 months) because I don't drive it much, and conventional oil is good enough for that.

It's just oil. Don't overthink it, just change it regular.
 

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is my crankcase/oil capacity 5 or 6 qts??? Chiltons says 6, ORielly says 5
should be about 6.
can i/should i substitute one quart of Lucas Oil conditioner when doing a oil change?
**** NO! keep that shit away from your engine.

i bought 5 QTS of Mobil-non synth.- 10W30, i live in Texas and the truck is just to drive on the back roads on the weekends..no heavy duty towing or 4 wheeling (yet LOL)... i was TOLD that using synthetic would be too thin and cause it to burn off in my engine...should i go to a 40W?
10w-30 or 5w-30 depending on climate
lastly is there a way to remove the oil filter W/O spilling oil all over the block/manifolds?
Nope
 

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im in Houston and have always just used 10w30 castrol synthetic blend in all my vehicles. but to each their own.. 75k is not an old motor...

imo the only way to avoid oil on everything is to relocate the filter or get really creative with some old cardboard..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have used Lucas fuel injector cleaner 4 years in my other cars and I think it works well is there any reason why you say stay away from the Lucas Oil stabilizer
 

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The only reason not to run full syn oil is your engine leaks or burns too much. (That can be costly to leak expensive oil) otherwise you should run it.

As far as Lucas is concerned, what are you trying to accomplish? I've seen additives swell seals and stop transmission leaks. But I've never seen any benefit to an engine.
 

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why would synthetic be too thin? the weight determines viscosity, not the type.

I run closer to 7 myself, but that's because I have a remote oil filter, or an oil filter that's mounted on the frame. There's a kit out there that lets you run oil lines from the stock filter mount to a frame rail mount so its easier and cleaner to change the filter.

As for oil, I use Rotella diesel 15w30(?). It actually works well in our old engines and helps keep them clean and gunk free without any sort of conditioner.
have you run any oil analysis to verify that? i'm on another car forum (for mazdas) and UOA is a big deal there. many users actually use T6 in their cars.

i haven't had my bronco long at all, but i used 10-40 and plan to do a UOA when i change it.
 

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I have used Lucas fuel injector cleaner 4 years in my other cars and I think it works well is there any reason why you say stay away from the Lucas Oil stabilizer
Oil stabilizer, stop leak, engine restore all fall into the category of snake oil. I like to call them motor honey, because they have the consistancy of honey and have about the same benefit. The only definitive thing it will do is increase the viscocity. If your gonna put this stuff in your engine you might as well just use gear oil, it will have about the same effect. It's not going to magically make your engine last longer, and 95% of the time it won't fix any leaks, if anything it will hurt it due to the oil not being able to flow properly. The people who praise these products have worn out dieing engines and nothing to loose. If a $10 bottle buys them a few months or a year they're happy.

I really wish Sackman would stop telling people lucas is good for their cars, It's not, plain and simple.

I have tried quick fix products in the past, they never worked.

Ive always fed my engine a steady diet of 5w-30 Pennzoil HM, nothing else goes in it other than the occasional cleaner. It has almost 200k and the engine is in excellent condition.
 

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I really wish Sackman would stop telling people lucas is good for their cars, It's not, plain and simple.
Show me where I've stated it's good for people's cars. I've never ever said it's good for anybody's car. I have simply stated my thoughts of it and my results. Your beliefs and mine may totally be different, but just know I've never experienced any BAD from using it. I just had my intake off my motor in January. Clean as a whistle. Even after using Lucas for 60k miles. I also know that I've gotten an extra 6 years out of my transmission and that it shows no signs today of what it was doing then. And I'm already 20K miles more on my fuel pump then the factory pump that was in it from using it in my gas tank.

If your gonna put this stuff in your engine you might as well just use gear oil, it will have about the same effect.
And you're going to advise to use gear oil? :scratchhe Gear oil has no properties for use in a motor.

The people who praise these products have worn out dieing engines and nothing to loose. If a $10 bottle buys them a few months or a year they're happy.
My engine isn't dying out......oh and it's "dying" not "dieing" :goodfinge

I have tried quick fix products in the past, they never worked.
Me too....but I'm not trying to fix a problem, just trying to prevent it :thumbup

Ive always fed my engine a steady diet of 5w-30 Pennzoil HM
Make sure you post a picture of your lifter valley when you HAVE to go into it. I bet it's gunked up. I would never use Pennzoil, even if you paid me too or it was a free oil change.
 

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Show me where I've stated it's good for people's cars. I've never ever said it's good for anybody's car. I have simply stated my thoughts of it and my results.
To be fair, you haven't, but Everytime you mention it you make it sound like its great stuff to put in your engine, which it's not.
but just know I've never experienced any BAD from using it. I just had my intake off my motor in January. Clean as a whistle. Even after using Lucas for 60k miles.
You can't use cleanliness to judge what effect an additive has on your oil. A thicker viscocity oil won't make it dirtier. What it will do is make it take longer for oil to flow to the bearings on startup. Our engines are quite resiliant. Running thicker oil won't create an immediately noticable problem.

I also know that I've gotten an extra 6 years out of my transmission and that it shows no signs today of what it was doing then.
Transmissions are a topic all their own. I can't remember what your transmission problem is, but whatever it was I can assure you that increasing the viscosity of your transmission fluid is a BAD idea. There's alot of valves and moving parts designed to work with a specific fluid. Changing the way that fluid flows is not a good idea. Maybe the Trans stuff is different, I honestly don't know. If its as thick as the oil stabilizer I'd stay far away from it.
And I'm already 20K miles more on my fuel pump then the factory pump that was in it from using it in my gas tank
I'm not talking about fuel system additives, they're a whole different ballgame.


And you're going to advise to use gear oil? :scratchhe Gear oil has no properties for use in a motor.
No, I'm illustrating the kind of effect it has on your oil, which is that it increases the viscocity.


Me too....but I'm not trying to fix a problem, just trying to prevent it :thumbup
Do you think using 20w-50 in your engine would prevent problems?


Make sure you post a picture of your lifter valley when you HAVE to go into it. I bet it's gunked up. I would never use Pennzoil, even if you paid me too or it was a free oil change.
I'm just going to say it, this statement makes me think your uneducated on oil and believe anything old timers say. Do some research at BITOG, Pennzoil will NOT gunk up an engine, not unless you overheat it, run it cold, or don't change it, It's been proven many times. In fact if it did it would not meet API certification. My engine has run Pennzoil ever since I got it, and I haven't babied it either. Ive had the bottom end open before, no sign of sludge and I have excellent oil pressure.
My Mower runs Pennzoil and has 1500+ hours on the original engine never opened running 100 hour OCIs and is also in excellent condition.
 

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To be fair, you haven't, but Everytime you mention it you make it sound like its great stuff to put in your engine, which it's not.
To be fair, it's not that I put it out there, rather answering a question to:

is my crankcase/oil capacity 5 or 6 qts??? Chiltons says 6, ORielly says 5
can i/should i substitute one quart of Lucas Oil conditioner when doing a oil change?

You can't use cleanliness to judge what effect an additive has on your oil.
I know that it isn't slugging my system up.

Do you think using 20w-50 in your engine would prevent problems?
Absolutely not. I don't use 20w-50

I'm just going to say it, this statement makes me think your uneducated on oil and believe anything old timers say. Do some research.....
I have. I've worked on at least 3 motors in my years where Pennzoil was used the whole life of the motor and this is what I saw.



I've been doing this a long time kid :goodfinge

To each their own. Use it, don't use it. I don't care. But, I AM A BELIEVER IN LUCAS :rockon

 

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6 qts. I run Castrol 10/30 and a Motorcraft filter. Best way to minimize the filter mess is to change the filter when the engine is cold (even though it is recommended to change your oil when it's warm). If I ever replace the engine I'll run synthetic but wouldn't bother with my current high mileage one.
 
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