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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Early versions of Bronco Fuel Injection has a canister that holds the fuel filter. I believe this to be any years that had 2 fuel pumps. A low pressure in the tank and a high pressure pump on the rails. This filter is tucked up under the Transfercase skid plate and is a PITA all around to deal with. Here is a general view of the canister on the frame:

canister on frame.jpg

There's really no room to work the canister to open it up, although I did do this once while on the frame years ago. The easiest way to work with this is to disconnect the four fuel lines, and remove the 2 bolts that hold it onto the frame. The bolts have a 1/2 or 13mm head for the one, and a 10mm for the other. Make sure that the line from the tank gets tucked up high or it will syphon gas out of the tank.

One you remove the canister, try to get as much gas out of it as possible. Tip it on it's side to drain out the excess gas.

Once you've got this far, you will need a vice. It's kinda awkward so be careful how you position don't want to break this. Here you see I put an ear in the vice then had the other side resting against the vice so that when I went to remove the cap it would not move.

in vice.jpg

Next, you'll need an oil filter wrench to remove the bowl.

with filter wrench.jpg

Carefully twist in a counter-clockwise direction to unscrew the bowl from the main assembly.

Once apart, you need to clean everything. Clean the fuel line connectors, clean the bowl, and there's an o-ring that will need to be replaced. The large o-ring is around the inside of the bowl and will need to be removed. This picture shows the new o-ring that needs to be installed. Let me tell you that this SOB is a PITMFA.

oring problems.jpg

Now, after fighting with this o-ring for about 45 mins, stretching it and lubing it in oil, I could not get this SOB to lay in the groove. Then I remembered that back 30 years ago when I did this before, I used Vasoline. So here's what I did....

I got some Vasoline and lubed up the o-ring with that, then I stretched the o-ring around the OUTSIDE of the bowl like this and left it for about 10 minutes:
oring stretch.jpg

Once I did that, the o-ring set in the groove where it needed to be without popping out of place.

I then started putting everything back together carefully. There's a small o-ring that needs to go into the center of the main assembly (small o-ring is not in this picture but it goes dead center):
top of canister.jpg

Then place your filter on top of the oring like so:
filter in canister.jpg

The part number for this filter is:
fuel filter part number.jpg

Then carefully screw it back together.

canister  together.jpg

You may want to replace your fuel line clips. I broke a couple when removing them:
fuel line clips.jpg

Reinstall back onto the frame and check for leaks. The whole reason I did this job was because this canister was spewing gas from the previous owner. I want to say that the shop he used disturbed the o-ring while trying to get it apart while on the truck then said screw it and left it in there, AND charged him for a new filter. I have the receipts that said it was replaced. That filter that came out WAS NOT NEW....

I hope this helps you. The stretching of o-ring around the outside of the canister for 10 minutes proved to be the best tip for this whole job. And 30 years ago, when I did this on my first Bronco, I did this job in the truck. Removing this from the frame proved to be a better choice and much easier to work with.

31 Posts
wish i would have seen this two weeks ago when i was trying to figure out why i didn't have fuel after replacing both fuel pumps and filter. when i finaly found this and opened it up it didnt have a filter in it so i just bypassed the whole thing because the check valve was stuck and couldn't find i new canister anywhere.

1988 Eddie Bauer 5.0L, AOD, 4x4; 2010 F150 4.6L; 2006 Honda Civic; 1999 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100cc
49 Posts
I picked it up off of Amazon for about $30, and then had to grab two more barb fittings from the hardware store.
Oh, I also used Teflon tape made for petroleum products, not the white stuff they sent. The white tape is for water stuff.

Premium Member
5,116 Posts
I could not get that O-ring to sit the in the flat groove (who designed an oring to sit on a flat surface with no actual groove?). Since the oring would just come out once you had half of it sitting in the flat groove I tried to super glue it in place. Maybe I should of used rtv. It leaks; It didn't work. I'm not sure if the super cheap filter I bought (rockauto house brand) came with the wrong size O-ring (too small) or if this is a really bad design. Half tempted in grabbing another filter cup and another filter or just bypassing it with the dorman 800-159 fuel lines. I do like the dual filters; as this one had caught so much debris it was actually clogged causing back firing and the engine to drop to 0 rpms under load. Some pics for your enjoyment. If one of my buddies has a donor for another cup I'll try it again if not I'll probably just order the bypass tubes from AAP ($14.24 after 25% code).

Super Moderator
28,289 Posts
Single-Function Reservoir Fuel Flow; "...Fuel flows in through the larger tank-side supply nipple from the in-tank pump to the inlet check valve, which allows it into the reservoir. As the cup fills, fuel moves up the pickup tube & out the larger engine-side supply nipple. Unused fuel enters the engine-side return nipple, bypasses the blocked-off check valve ('88 revision) and exits the tank-side return nipple. The only fault that would cause a noticeable problem would be for the check valve to stick closed, blocking any fuel from entering the reservoir, but this isn't likely. With the cup removed (have a replacement cup O-ring in-hand before attempting), a sharp pick can be used to pull the valve downward & open. The valve cannot be removed from the reservoir body..."
Single-Function Reservoir Disassembly in an 86; "....More then likely you'll need to remove the transfer case skid plate for more working room BUT you CAN get the bottom part to unscrew if you use the right tool to get it tight enough and have leverage to loosen it PITA that it is. There's probably a lot of built up road grit in and around the threading so use some PB Blaster etc. Think out of the box on this one and get creative with a tool ...but there's no need to remove the top part. The top part (cap) of the reservior has these little spring loaded pressure valves on each side where the lines go to inside to keep the reservior full, the bottom half threads are similar to "pipe" threads so they're tappered for a tight seal so it does take a bit of energy to get it free.....BE CAREFUL because it's plastic and if you break any part of it you won't be able to drive the BKO. The O ring can be a PITA also just read above and work at it carefully..."
Consider NAPA 3268

by our late friend and member, JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean ) at FSB
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