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Early versions of Bronco Fuel Injection has a canister that holds the fuel filter. I believe this to be any years that had 2 fuel pumps. A low pressure in the tank and a high pressure pump on the rails. This filter is tucked up under the Transfercase skid plate and is a PITA all around to deal with. Here is a general view of the canister on the frame:

canister on frame.jpg


There's really no room to work the canister to open it up, although I did do this once while on the frame years ago. The easiest way to work with this is to disconnect the four fuel lines, and remove the 2 bolts that hold it onto the frame. The bolts have a 1/2 or 13mm head for the one, and a 10mm for the other. Make sure that the line from the tank gets tucked up high or it will syphon gas out of the tank.

One you remove the canister, try to get as much gas out of it as possible. Tip it on it's side to drain out the excess gas.

Once you've got this far, you will need a vice. It's kinda awkward so be careful how you position it....you don't want to break this. Here you see I put an ear in the vice then had the other side resting against the vice so that when I went to remove the cap it would not move.


in vice.jpg


Next, you'll need an oil filter wrench to remove the bowl.

with filter wrench.jpg


Carefully twist in a counter-clockwise direction to unscrew the bowl from the main assembly.

Once apart, you need to clean everything. Clean the fuel line connectors, clean the bowl, and there's an o-ring that will need to be replaced. The large o-ring is around the inside of the bowl and will need to be removed. This picture shows the new o-ring that needs to be installed. Let me tell you that this SOB is a PITMFA.

oring problems.jpg


Now, after fighting with this o-ring for about 45 mins, stretching it and lubing it in oil, I could not get this SOB to lay in the groove. Then I remembered that back 30 years ago when I did this before, I used Vasoline. So here's what I did....

I got some Vasoline and lubed up the o-ring with that, then I stretched the o-ring around the OUTSIDE of the bowl like this and left it for about 10 minutes:
oring stretch.jpg


Once I did that, the o-ring set in the groove where it needed to be without popping out of place.

I then started putting everything back together carefully. There's a small o-ring that needs to go into the center of the main assembly (small o-ring is not in this picture but it goes dead center):
top of canister.jpg


Then place your filter on top of the oring like so:
filter in canister.jpg


The part number for this filter is:
fuel filter part number.jpg


Then carefully screw it back together.

canister  together.jpg


You may want to replace your fuel line clips. I broke a couple when removing them:
fuel line clips.jpg


Reinstall back onto the frame and check for leaks. The whole reason I did this job was because this canister was spewing gas from the previous owner. I want to say that the shop he used disturbed the o-ring while trying to get it apart while on the truck then said screw it and left it in there, AND charged him for a new filter. I have the receipts that said it was replaced. That filter that came out WAS NOT NEW....

I hope this helps you. The stretching of o-ring around the outside of the canister for 10 minutes proved to be the best tip for this whole job. And 30 years ago, when I did this on my first Bronco, I did this job in the truck. Removing this from the frame proved to be a better choice and much easier to work with.
 

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wish i would have seen this two weeks ago when i was trying to figure out why i didn't have fuel after replacing both fuel pumps and filter. when i finaly found this and opened it up it didnt have a filter in it so i just bypassed the whole thing because the check valve was stuck and couldn't find i new canister anywhere.
 

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1988 Eddie Bauer 5.0L, AOD, 4x4; 2010 F150 4.6L; 2006 Honda Civic; 1999 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100cc
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Here's my solution. Swapping that shit plastic housing for an aluminum spin on fuel filter.
 

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1988 Eddie Bauer 5.0L, AOD, 4x4; 2010 F150 4.6L; 2006 Honda Civic; 1999 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100cc
Joined
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43 Posts
I picked it up off of Amazon for about $30, and then had to grab two more barb fittings from the hardware store.
Oh, I also used Teflon tape made for petroleum products, not the white stuff they sent. The white tape is for water stuff.
 
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