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fuel guage issue HELP!!!!

5768 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  miesk5
ok so on Tuesday some guy in a new camaro hit me on my driver side about middle of the cab and back to the wheel going 40 to 50 spun my truck around his fault he ran the red light... but gas gauge worked and on Friday my fuel gauge got pegged at full and hasn't moved. Ive checked for unplugged/cut wires. i pulled the whole cluster out check pins everything seamed fine got the volt meter out tested everything i could and it all came up fine i have a brand new pump in my tank around 5 months old Ive heard of floats falling off i have a 94 f150 single cab short bed 4x4 with only a rear tank. HELP!!!!! im going crazy over this:banghead:whiteflag

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I have been having the same isue with mine for a while now, from what I have read it is more thasn likely a bad ground or shorted wires. I know it is a PITA finding where it could be, I would look at all the conections first.
If you short the guage to ground, it will read full.
I'd pay close attention to the area where I got hit to see if any wires are pierced. No doubt, your problem lies there.
yo DL & BN,
Testing & Connector Pin-Outs in 92-96 Bronco; Sender Range: Full = 160 Ohms; Empty = 16 Ohms;
"... gauge that pegs past full indicates an open circuit (broken wire; unplugged connector; corroded terminal; burned sender) on the Y/W wire.
gauge that pegs past empty indicates a short to ground (pinched to the frame, body, or dash supports) on the Y/W wire, OR a sunk float.
gauge anywhere in between that doesn't move indicates an open circuit (blown fuse; corroded terminal) on the power (battery) side of the gauge OR a bad instrument cluster ground at C251 pin 9.

The terminals of C251 (& C250) are known to corrode & lose contact. Polish both the connector pins AND the film circuit pads with brown paper or a pink eraser. The larger version of C441(WPT454) was used until 93.
The level sender can usually be disassembled & repaired by bending the wiper arm inside the plastic housing to apply slightly more force..." by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at

For Grounds; if any of the associated components to these Sender/Pump Grounds are an issue too, then I'd inspect and test each Ground.

Ground Location in 92-96; (pump and fuel level sender share a connector C441 At Rear cross member) G100 @ LH front of engine compartment on upper radiator support & G200, Instrument Cluster ground is inside passenger side kick panel
G100 Serves Component:
LH Oxygen Sensor
Fuel Pump Module
Inertia Fuel Shutoff
Misfire Sensor
Misfire Sensor Shield
Output Shaft Speed (OSS) Sensor
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.0L

G200 serves Component, Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor, Electronic Shift Control Module, Instrument Cluster, Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM), Remote/Keyless Entry Module, Speed Control Servo/Amplifier Assembly
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Location Diagram, Engine Area in a 95; G100. G101, G104
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at

G200 Behind bottom of RH cowl panel
& C441 Location Diagram (partial) in 92-96
Source: by fordbronco1995 ("JUICE") at FSB
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gee miesk5,
I try to never disagree with you, cause more often than not, I would be wrong! ;)

I was so sure that grounding the guage goes to full, that I had to look it up.
Well at least for the '96 bronco, and I guess as you ponted out the '92 - '96 broncos it is the reverse of what I thought.

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UPDATES !!!! u were all wrong ha but good guesses and thank god its not electrical! what happened my guess is when the camaro hit me it knocked the float loose inside the tank and over a day or so it finialy fell off inside the tank!!!! found the arm floating around inside the tank was not fun getting out or dropping it with half a tank !

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yo Joe,
That Test Y/w grounding test has been confirmed by others.
96 EVTM, Fuel Sending Unit
The fuel tank sending unit consists of a variable screened resistor made up of a ceramic substrate. It is controlled by the action of an attached float in the fuel tank. When the fuel level is low, resistance in the fuel tank sending unit is low. When the fuel level is high, the resistance in the fuel tank sending unit is high. As the float moves from empty to full, the resistance will gradually and continuously increase

And the popped float would cause the Stuck on Full Reading if collision jarred the sender's arm and it stayed in that position.
So the usual electrical suspects were good to go on this one since it was mechanical

In the 96 EVTM Ford does get to it in Pin-Point Testing for da Full Stop Position in;
Inspect float and float rod.
Is float rod distorted, hitting filter, filled with fuel or loose on float rod?
Yes - REPLACE fuel level sensor. REFER to Section 10-01A. (Ford at the time seemed to dwell on repacing entire sneder rathert han parts of..)
(btw, The tech writer should have written it this way; "....Is float rod distorted, hitting filter, is FLOAT filled with fuel or loose on float rod?
So that would have been the clue in this case.

and for dch1992;
But, we're good on this electrical testing anyway... better to ck electrically Before the pull and look part, which would have been next on the troubleshooting List.
Esp since I replied Both to you and to BRONCONUT

Testing in 93-94; "...Empty = 22 ohms Full = 145 ohms according to my 93/94 EVTM Manual. You can test it with a DVOM..."
Source: by rla2005 (Randy) at FSB
Testing in a 96; from 96 EVTM; "...With the sending unit float arm in the empty stop position, resistance should be 15 ohms (below E). With the sending unit float arm in the full stop position, resistance should be 160 ohms (above F). The fuel gauge should read empty at 22.5 ohms and full at 145 ohms..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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I have my tank loose waiting to be pulled. I guess I plan to check the sender first, then go from there.
ok and use a brass drift on the tank's retaining ring
clean area well; I use a little PB Blaster, etc. to help free it from heavily rusted pieces
digitalbill's fuel pump replacement lessons
"Please keep in mind that this was all done to a 1992 Bronco

1: If you decide to put in a cheap fuel pump, you are probably going to have to replace it within a year. Either spend the extra money on a really good one or, cut an access door in the bed.

2: Get the right tools for the job. Fuel line removal tools are very cheap and will save you hours of aggravation

3: If you decide to cut an access door, see if you can borrow a 110V angle grinder or an air operated one (if you have access).
I used my 18V ryobi and while it worked fine with the cutoff wheel, I have three batteries and, starting at full charge on all three, they all had to go back on the charger twice before I was finished cutting.

4: Speaking of cutting.. .I got the steps (measurements and stuff) from Steve83 site on SuperMotors site. It looked like he used a sawsall but he also has a body lift. I have the stock lift so I was scared to go too deep. I was right. the vent line is about 1 inch (if that) from the bottom of the bed. I didn't hit it but, that would have sucked.

5: Safety first. I kept a garden hose stuffed up on the top of the tank with it on "mist" to keep everything wet. I don't know if it helped or not but, no fires and there were LOTS of sparks. Eye protection goes without saying...

6: Taking the retaining ring off is easy.
Putting it back on? Not so much. I bent the "starter" tabs at just a little bit of a downward angle with needle nose plyers and it made putting it back on quite easy.

7: I do not have a patch panel yet so, I cut three sides of the access panel and then just "scored" the 4th side (drivers side) so I could open it up like a door. It is currently closed and duct tape in on the edges until I can get a proper cover for it.

8: Also, if you read Steve83's writeup, he mentioned that the edges are sharp. let me clairify.
YOU WILL GET CUT!!!!!!! Either wear gloves or file down the edges BEFORE screwing with the pump itself."

btw for others, Jeff's sells the 48in. x 16in. patch panel for 80-96 Bronco & F Series; $35.00
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