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Discussion Starter #1
on the way home this afternoon I noticed my truck started running a tad hotter than usual, but it was nothing to be alarmed about. All of a sudden, it started to spudder so I immediately pulled off of the road and parked it. It eventually died after a minute or two (it was running like shite).

I cranked it back up and it ran for a few seconds and shut off. Well, I was thinking it either has fuel or spark issue. It is still sitting up at the place where I left it becuase this was a busy night with plans already made.

On the way home at midnight, I stopped by just to make sure it was all locked up. I turned the key to on, and the fuel pump primed. Went to crank it and it fired right up with no issues.

What is the next step? I haven't had a chance to pull codes yet, but will get them to you shortly. I got gas about 30mins before this happened. Think it could be bad gas?? Let me know yall think, and thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No ignition box. Everything is a stock set up. I am going to stop by the parts store on the way home and get some of that stuff that takes care of water in the fuel, and see what happens. Any suggestions?
 

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I have had a TFI module leave me on the side of the road about the same way you describe. When it got hot it would sputter out, let it cool down for 20-30 minutes it would start right up and run great for a bit then crap out. Just a thought though.
 

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I've never had bad gas in my life man, and I've been acrossed the country and bought from some shady stations lol. Hell I had a 46 Willys truck that hadn't ran in 16 years fire right up on the gas in the tank. I even flushed a tank with water once and pumped it out with an electric pump and I know I didn't get it all. Bad gas is the least likely scenario here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for yalls help.

Seattle,
I did some research on the TFI (thin film ignition). They claimed that it delivers spark to the dizzy. Is this correct, or does it do more? How can i troubleshoot it? Thanks for the help, and i am open to any ideas.
 

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It delivers spark, controls dwell, etc.
 

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I know it sucks but you can remove the tfi module from the dizzy and take it to any chain auto parts store and they will test it for you but you will have to retime the motor after removing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well, I just walked outside to pull the TFI module to get tested, and I found nothing that looks similar to this:



So i took a pic of my distributor just to see if I was having an idiot moment:



I didn't see one anywhere, so maybe I do have an ignition box :shrug. If you let me know where that is I will look and see.


I am driving it at the moment, and it has not happened again. I am going to get codes pulled, but I just haven't had a chance to do it. I will be able to put more attention on it tomorrow, but would appreciate yall pointing me in a few directions. Thanks for the help!!
 

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well, I just walked outside to pull the TFI module to get tested, and I found nothing that looks similar to this:



So i took a pic of my distributor just to see if I was having an idiot moment:



I didn't see one anywhere, so maybe I do have an ignition box :shrug. If you let me know where that is I will look and see.


I am driving it at the moment, and it has not happened again. I am going to get codes pulled, but I just haven't had a chance to do it. I will be able to put more attention on it tomorrow, but would appreciate yall pointing me in a few directions. Thanks for the help!!
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d124/LuvNStarGazn/75 bronco/100_3363.jpg
You should have a remote mount module similar to this one some where on the truck under the hood. I would still have it tested. I have seen them still run but fail both low and high speed tests.
 

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IIRC mid 80's BKO's have TFI but not 93 or so, more like a remote module.......before you do anything just "pull codes" first and see what faults are registered in the computer and proceed from there...I've had that problem driving when the ignition module causes the engine to die, cranks but won't start until it cools down.
No harm in getting it or even the coil tested to be sure but after you "pull codes"....

When was the last time you checked your FPR = fuel pressure regulator....it's located on top of the fuel rail towards the back drivers side but for that you need a fuel pressure guage to test PSI, there is a Schraeder Valve towards the front of the fuel rail, a for quick test to see if there is ANY fuel there but no PSI.

Remember fuel starvation or a "lean condition" will cause an engine to run hot/hotter....just a thought...

Good Luck ~
 

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JK the remote mount is a TFI module as well just a different design.
 

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I seem to remember now that there's way to take a TFI off the dissy and make it a remote to lessen the heat factor etc...

Thanks ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #15
an update on progress:
I spent this morning trying to get codes pulled, but for some reason was not making any progress. I finally went to O'reillys becuase they had a OBD1 controller they would let me use in the parking lot. I could not get it to work either, so i have no codes to go off of. Any ideas??

On another note, I purchased a fuel pressure gauge, and also a spark tester.

Well, I found a wiring harness that was arching on my throttle cable (looked
like the harness was going into the fuel injectors). I zip tied out of the way and drove it around for a little while and no issues.

Suddenly, it did it again. I got out and tested the spark from the coil and I had good spark. I also tested the fuel pressure while it wouldn't crank. It was averaging about 12 PSI. I finally got the motor to crank, and the highest it went was 25 PSI.

I am going to go and get it in about an hour or so. I will get another pressure reading when I pick it up and see how it is when it is running good.

I know without codes blah blah (i realize how important that is, but couldn't get it to work). I will update you with the other pressure readings when I get them.

Any more ideas from this info? fuel pump/filter? fuel regulator (how can i test it)? I am up for any ideas. Thank you for the help!!

:beer
 

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Now with fuel pressure readings it looks more like an intermittently failing fuel pump. Any one else with me on that?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just went and picked it up and the fuel pressure read 40 psi... Any ideas?
 

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If you were certain your pressure reading was only 12psi while experiencing this issue I would start by taking electrical readings at the fuel pump. You can try to replace the fuel pump relay or when it craps out on you bypass the relay and see if the pressure comes up. If it does then replace the relay. if you get a good healthy voltage to the pump and it isnt making the right amount of pressure then you my friend need a pump assembly they sell for $150 at the chain parts stores I bought one off ebay for $53.50 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300428666054&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I like your idea with the fuel pressure relay. Is there any way to test the fuel pressure regulater. I would like to be able to troubleshoot this so i can rule it out. Thanks.
 

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To test the FPR I do a leak down test as described herehttp://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=41 After attaching the fuel pressure tester, run the fuel pump for 10 seconds. Check that the pressure is within specs, and it doesn’t leakdown more than 5PSI within 60 seconds after pump shutdown.
 
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