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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about at my wits end.. I'm trying to get down to my valve covers to replace gaskets, but can NOT for the life of me disconnect the fuel lines so I can take out the rails. I first got the el cheapo plastic quick disconnect kit which promptly broke when I put pressure on it. Then I got the metal scissors looking thing that has 4 diff sizes on it. I can get the tool under the oval connector but that won't compress the springs enough to unlock the fuel line. Just now got back from the parts store with the circular coupling disconnect tool that goes over both sides of the line to remove it. Still no dice.

Any tricks anybody can give me? I've now spent almost $30 in tools to get these MF'ers disconnected and absolutely pissed at myself that disconnecting a couple fuel lines has been stopping me from tearing down the rest of the engine.

Thank you!
 

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I'm about at my wits end.. I'm trying to get down to my valve covers to replace gaskets, but can NOT for the life of me disconnect the fuel lines so I can take out the rails. I first got the el cheapo plastic quick disconnect kit which promptly broke when I put pressure on it. Then I got the metal scissors looking thing that has 4 diff sizes on it. I can get the tool under the oval connector but that won't compress the springs enough to unlock the fuel line. Just now got back from the parts store with the circular coupling disconnect tool that goes over both sides of the line to remove it. Still no dice.

Any tricks anybody can give me? I've now spent almost $30 in tools to get these MF'ers disconnected and absolutely pissed at myself that disconnecting a couple fuel lines has been stopping me from tearing down the rest of the engine.

Thank you!
Are you sure your installing the tool on the correct side of the connection. Try watching this youtube example. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKgQJ-RinXc
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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I've had the plastic ones for over 10 years and used them many times with no problems. It doesn't compress the spring, it stretches it out and moves it away from the inner tube. Once the tool is in place I just tap on it with a little 3/8 extension and a rathcet. It should pop right off. I just did this again on My Bronco last week for the first time in about 6 years, no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #4


Yup, even watched that video last night. I've tried pushing the line in to slide the tools farther towards the line. MF'er won't budge..
 

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Had the same problem with the filter. Forced it apart and went to napa for replacement inner clips. Goofy looking things that cost me a couple bucks each. They had them in stock to my surprise. I'm sure any dealer shop has a bag of them around too.
You might be able to use a pick to pull the clips out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got the bottom one after a generous spray of PB blaster and a couple beers worth of time. Top one still didn't budge, so I left it attached to the rail and just moved it all off to the side so I can get to the driver's side valve cover...
 

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Forward Some Money
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After the PB Blaster, did you try shoving in on the line? ....then twist and wiggle the tool around and make sure it's in all the way. Then pull it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After the PB Blaster, did you try shoving in on the line? ....then twist and wiggle the tool around and make sure it's in all the way. Then pull it out.
Yup, tried until my thumbs were raw.. That top connection did NOT want to come out. Makes for quite a bit less room when dealing with the driver's side valve cover, but doable. At least i know that one probably won't ever leak?
 

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yo,


Push the fuel line HARD onto the fitting (pump or filter) to relieve the catches, & rotate it to break the O-rings loose. While holding it on the fitting, insert the release tool as far as it will go (this one isn't there yet) to open the catches. While holding the tool HARD against the stop ring, work the line off the tool & fitting. It may be necessary to rinse the dirt out of the line end to allow the catches to open.
Blue supply lines are 3/8"; gray return lines are 5/16
Also, The only approved lubricant for fuel system O-rings is clean motor oil. DO NOT USE SILICONE GREASE on any part of the fuel system. It does NOT dissolve in gas, so it can block the fuel filter &/or injector screens..."
by Steve83
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yo,


Push the fuel line HARD onto the fitting (pump or filter) to relieve the catches, & rotate it to break the O-rings loose. While holding it on the fitting, insert the release tool as far as it will go (this one isn't there yet) to open the catches. While holding the tool HARD against the stop ring, work the line off the tool & fitting. It may be necessary to rinse the dirt out of the line end to allow the catches to open.
Blue supply lines are 3/8"; gray return lines are 5/16
Also, The only approved lubricant for fuel system O-rings is clean motor oil. DO NOT USE SILICONE GREASE on any part of the fuel system. It does NOT dissolve in gas, so it can block the fuel filter &/or injector screens..."
by Steve83
The only part I didn't do was rinse the dirt out, but would assume by spraying tons of PB Blaster it'd accomplish the same thing. The o rings are loose, I can twist the end of the line around a bit. So that's not an issue. Just keep my fingers crossed I won't ever need to replace the rail or that line in the future!
 

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The only part I didn't do was rinse the dirt out, but would assume by spraying tons of PB Blaster it'd accomplish the same thing. The o rings are loose, I can twist the end of the line around a bit. So that's not an issue. Just keep my fingers crossed I won't ever need to replace the rail or that line in the future!
Yo cavellmc,
OK. Someday, if needed, use compressed air from shop source or from PC keybd air spray thing.
Check Dorman HELP brand for the O Ring/spring etc.
 

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AKA: Butthead
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Man I worked and worked on one of those banjo connections one time.
I believe they aren't all -exactly- the same.

I modified a tool and that did the trick for me tho! :)

I guess I need to take a picture of that tool, but it's a quality tool from
Autozone and then I clamped it in the vice with something round in it
and then counter sunk the ends with a drill and 82 degree countersink.



<--worked after modification.

Went from nothing working for a couple hours messing with it to
being really-easy using the better tool after modifying it. :)

The cheap-scissor-type wouldn't work no matter what I did to it!
<--don't buy this!
That sorry sucker's lips were just plain ol' too short to do the job.

That's my experience.

Alvin in AZ
 

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pb blaster and these are what i have

used them on my 89 bronco ii, 90 f150 parts truck and think my old ranger, worked nicely on the fuel lines and a/c lines,

bought them at advance i think

and a dump question, but did you relieve the fuel pressure to the fuel line, and you can always disconnect the line at the fuel filter and unbolt the rail
 

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i hate these banjo clamps they are a pain in the ass.
 

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"{Blue supply lines are 3/8"; gray return lines are 5/16"

Yeah, I just changed the fuel filter on my pappy's 06 grand marquis today. Used the "scissor tool" for the first time. At first I had trouble with it till I realized that the tool didn't need to fit the fuel line, but the fitting :duh. Once I used the bigger size, she loosened the fitting right up, then after taking the tool off, was able to pull the fuel line away from the filter. Worked great on both sides of the filter;).
 

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AKA: Butthead
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Worked great on both sides of the filter;).
I don't use a tool like that for the filter or fuel tank connections,
I pull the hairpin out with a pocket knife or screwdriver instead. :)

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-3429-55147.aspx

YMMV

-----------------

Oops! :/

I've been calling 'em a banjo fitting when it ain't. :/
A banjo fitting is like what's on a brake caliper.

The suckers that are a pain in the neck have a different name
but I don't know what that is, anyway, here's line drawings of
'em from Ryan's website...


Alvin in AZ
 

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Second pic is the spring bail in the female end. Is that not on the fuel rail as well as the fuel filter fittings? If it is, use a pick, rip it out, shove a new one in. I messed with mine for a couple hours before I gave up and bought new bail springs. Pretty sure it was just a few dollars for new ones from Napa

[/IMG]
 

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AKA: Butthead
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Second pic is the spring bail in the female end. Is that not on the fuel rail
as well as the fuel filter fittings? If it is, use a pick, rip it out, shove a new
one in. I messed with mine for a couple hours before I gave up and bought
new bail springs. Pretty sure it was just a few dollars for new ones from
Napa

[/IMG]
I've only-worked-on a '90 and two '91s and only thing that's got
that setup is the inline-one-way-valve for a dual tank system.

It's snapped onto the 3/8" outlet stainless steel line coming from
the sending unit / pump assembly. It prevents the fuel from going
into that tank from the other pump. I had no trouble with those
other than the bend in the stainless steel tubing forced me to take
the tool apart one time to get the halves in place. :) The scissor
type would fail there IMO.

Where else is that spring-finger-type retainer system used?

Alvin in AZ
 

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These are the type I encountered at the the fuel filter with a single tank.
I havent been into any of the other fuel or air lines so I just assumed they would be the same. Nasty little clips to get out if the tool fails.
As mentioned though, even out in the middle of nowhere, small town Ontario, Napa had them in stock to my surprise.
[/IMG]
 

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AKA: Butthead
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These are the type I encountered at the the fuel filter with a single tank.
I havent been into any of the other fuel or air lines so I just assumed they
would be the same. Nasty little clips to get out if the tool fails.
As mentioned though, even out in the middle of nowhere, small town
Ontario, Napa had them in stock to my surprise.
Cool. :)

"Ford never learned how to make the same part twice ;)" -my Chevy buddies

Just another in a "encyclopedic sized" list of changes Ford made to stuff. LOL :)

Alvin in AZ
 
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