[axaviere]

heres whats up. after crawling around under truck, i noticed first off that the fuel line that comes out of the tank has what looks like a canister filter, then someone added an electrical fuel pump on the cross member. thats not functional, i know i added another one further up the line. i want to replace the fuel lines all the way to the carb. i have heard some say hard lines and others use rubber. any reason for or against either one? as its run now, there is no concern for heat and they are protected, so whatever i use it will go the same way. thanks, AXE

 

[axaviere]

just to share, i saw some clamps at the hardware store. they have nylon, metal & metal with rubber around the inside to keep whatever your clamping from abrading or chafing. you could use self tapping & cut the point off after it goes thru, i just leave 1/8" sticking out. or thru bolt it to the frame. i'd be tempted to get one size bigger than the hose, then use a wire tie to secure the hose, that way if you have to do anything to the line later, you can slide the whole line forward or back to splice in or remove any components. if you try it in the store, remember that when you tighten it down the inner diameter will get alot smaller so get big enought clamps for your line so it dont pinch. i am going to plumb two electric fuel pumps inline for redundancy & backup. i have no mechanical pump anymore and i dont think one will fit with the oil cooler lines coming off the stock filter relocator dealy. AXE

 

[axaviere]

where can we get it in bulk? for that matter where can i get rubber hose in bulk? i dont think $1.89 or more a foot is at all reasonable for redoing the lines on the whole truck. id rather buy 50 foot & use the excess to extend my breather lines. anybody?

 

[axaviere]

well i think the fitting that comes out of the tank uses a clamp on fitting. so i dont think that there is any way to adapt braided line to that type of fitting. every thing else like the fuel pump i have is also clamp on fitting. braided would be cool if i could get a way to still have it work without a threaded fitting. but i think since its used in high pressure applications, they most likely dont have a way to clamp it on. do they?

 

[axaviere]

well on my 79, that is specific. everything attaches with a hose clamp. from gas tank to inline canister filter, hose clamps. canister to the first electric fuel pump that some slackass added instead of putting in a new mechanical, all the way up to the carb, all hose clamps. the duct tape is a good idea, i wonder if that foil tape that they use ducts and around other things would work??

 

[axaviere]

nope. my edelbrock didnt have anything threaded unless the hose fitting was treaded on the base and screwed out of the body of the carb to allow a line to be threaded in. i would still rather not do that, i like the hoses just clamped on. i have never had any problems with that clamp so far. that foil is just aluminum with adhesive on the back. its gotta be more durable than tape and shouldnt cost that much. do they make braided in larger sizes like fuel line size. isnt that 1/2" I.D.? 5/8"?

 

[axaviere]

tech inspections? where would i get a tech inspection besides the drag races? mud runs dont inspect do they? what about at places like Disney Oklahoma and the open event they have every year? i heard that some places have a drip test. you gotta park over a spot and they put paper or cardboard under your rig and you cant leave too big of a drip mark after so many minutes. i guess i could do straight line all the way down the frame rail and rubber around the bends. but then you have a spot that could leak with every time you splice solid line to hose. just 3/8" huh? i thought it was bigger.

 

[axaviere]

well call me lazy, but with all that has to come off to get the radius arms on, i am going to wait and put it on when the D60 goes in. all thats waiting for is my steering rods. i think i am getting them done here locally using 1.5" or 1.25" solid cold rolled thats been drilled and threaded. i will use big rod ends for the tie rod that goes above & behind the axle and i still have to find something for the drag link ends that will take the flex and not bind. all the drag link ends have a different taper than TREs and the TREs dont seem to have the flex in them. so i am talking to a few places to see whats up. everybody says just use heims. i dont want to. i still need to get the other arm filled in with 1/2" plate and figure out the shock mounts. i think i will use thick walled 1"-1.5" pipe with a section of square stock on top. the box stock will have one side removed so the shock will fit in it and it will sit up off the arm so it wont be affected by the flexing.

 

[axaviere]

ill take a look at the cost of solid lines at the parts store. i want to eliminate the line that ran to the evap canister completely as well. hey 78bronco460, how do you get the 15" rims to fit on the 8 lug fronts? are they chevy? whats the offset on the rims? my 16.5s barely clear the bolt that holds the caliper locking key in place. the pump doesnt close the hose as it is now, but i see your point. when i am under there drilling holes for the sliders i will see more and make up my mind whats up.

 

[axaviere]

i hear ya Zach. i didnt do anything to the D60 for a long while, then i finally cut off all the crap and grinded it smooth ... and thats about all. i got a set of these

and i am still looking for decent ends for the drag link that will allow for the flex. i may end up with heims on the drag link and TREs on the tie rod. i am ready to get that bastard in there and then sell off my D44s. or keep the D44/8 lug and slip that under a smaller vehicle like a Zuk or a tracker possibly. i like the little rodeos and the amiga too with the topless rear section like my bronco. i have found bigger TREs than that one since taking that picture. just nothing that looks like it will handle the drop from the pitman arm to steering knuckle when it flexes. which thread was that about the 15s Zach?