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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey everyone

i have a 1992 5.8L auto trans Bronco and i am having this wierd problem:
the truck will start, and run great, then die a few minnuites into my drive.. or it will start, run great, and get me home.. or it will not start at all..

the times it will not start:

the engine turns over the entire time i am turning the key, the air smells like gasoline, and sometimes it will sputter like it wants to start, but never does. the fuel pump is running (or at least i can hear it), infact it keeps running untill i pull the key out. normaly, when i start the truck, i turn key to run, wait until i hear the pump shut off, then start... but it never shuts off. i have cranked it for a long time, almost to the point of a dead battery. pushing the gas pedal does nothing.

the times it starts and dies on the road:

it suddenly stops while im driving, other than scaring myself and drivers around me, it is completely random.. usually within 1-5 min of my house, when im leaving my house. it does not start untill i wait 5-10 min, and then it starts and really hesitates, until its back to normal running.. like its flooded... can an EFI flood?

the times it runs great:

it runs great! likie nothing is wrong. its acctually a huge ego killer when it has the starting problem again, because even tho i know its stupid to assume the car fixed itself, it is the only thing i can take from it running great then dieing... i am nervous the entire drive and avoid the highway because i dont what to cause an accident when my bronco randomly stops.

for the record:

i have reciently replaced the spark plugs, wires, the ignition module on the fender well, power steering gearbox, water pump, the check engine light is NOT on, it has 8'' of lift and 35'' tires, 32 gallon gas tank, and the fuel filter looks fresh.. but that doesent mean it is.

PLEASE help me! i have put alot of money into this truck and have hardly gotten a chance to drive it!
 

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Start by pulling codes even though the CEL is not on. You can get codes thrown that will not trip the light. Pull for both KOEO and KOER. If you pass both, then there are a few good threads on the site that explain the fuel system diagnosis. I would search those out go from there...
 

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One way I found mine was going out was that I drove the same road everyday to work and it died almost in the same spot everytime. Fuel pump was heating up and shutting off. I did the pressure test and all that but everything seemed fine.Just FYI
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes i read many of the threads, and i found other people with similar problems, but no solutions. i used the word "wierd" to describe how there are no constant variables that i know of, the fuel pump keeps running when the truck is NOT running with the key in... which is "wierd" because its not using fuel, and it is supposted to shut off after the fuel system is pressureised.

i replaced the ignition module because it was inexpensive, and i read on this website that that module can overheat and fail, it sounded like something worth trying.

and if you understood what i was saying steve83, you would have gotten that i know it is rediculous to say it fixed itself, but i dont know what elese to think. wouldnt that be nice if they did?

thank you shane c and biggboy for your input. steve83, im not sure how im supposted to take what you said, but i hope your not waisting your time trying to insult me... i just want to learn from someone that might know more than i do about this problem.
 

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I had a very similar problem with my '92 w/5.8. It would run great, then just die somewhere. Didn't matter if it was cold or hot outside, or the motor. It would go great for a day or even a week, then just die randomly. Sometimes it would start right up, other times it took 24 hours or so. I changed the fuel pump/regulator and the filter in the frame rail. I pulled codes and changed the ignition module and still no fixes. Stupid ? for you, do you have an aftermarket ignition module, like the MSD ignition box? If so, try to bypass that and run your wires directly to the ignition or get rid of that box. They have ways of testing the box online, but that didn't work for me as you can test all you want, but if it doesn't fail during the test you'll never know it was bad. I took the MSD box out and I have never had a problem since. I spent roughly $400 on stuff trying to figure it out. I started with the simple stuff and what all the so-called mechanics were telling me (from my own shop no less). My brother in-law was wheeling with me in Barstow and he knew right away it was the box. I'm curious what your problem is. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
so i pulled the codes, and heres what i got:

key on engine off: 33 -EGR valve opening not detected.

key on engine on: 332 -EGR valve opening not detected, 538 -Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error
, 536 -Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test
, 632 -Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD).


in response to the new information, i said screw it and took it to a local shop for diagnosis... $180 later they tell me its an EEC relay, which i replaced myself before they charged me $60 for the relay and an hour to install it ($85), along with the other 3 relays there (they were 3 bucks each), including the horn and fuel pump relays. didnt fix the problem. i did notice, however, that after taking it to the shop the engine light was on. so, did the self test and replaced the idle speed control valve/ sensor, the EGR valve, and did the test awesomely written on here by Xris for the TPS voltage. tps voltage checked out, at 1.0v to 4.1v. the truck runs better, meaning it idles better (not perfect), the exhaust does not smell like unburnt fuel anymore, and small but important it sounds better!

still has the stalling problem.

tomorow morning i will clear the codes, try to drive to work and back, and re-do the self test.. until then, any new ideas before i throw anymore parts at this beast?

P.S. is it normal for the computer to report codes out of numerical order? becase the order i listed them is the order i wrote it down in... mabye i screwed it up? thanks everyone
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
your just full of usless information steve... i think your trying to be funny, but it just doesent work.
 

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No machine yet can fix itself. ;) Not even a 50-billion-dollar space telescope or deep-space probe. Just ask Data... :rolleyes:
*cough*

*cough*

*cough*

granted they're only doing minor repairs, and still require human interface to do major repairs, they're completely capable of repairing themselves to a point and aren't all that far from not needing any human interface at all.

Skynet. Stop them.
 

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The PDF is actually what they're doing at MIT at the moment, it already exists.

I find it amusing that you don't think you and many other people are going to be replaced by robots or self-repairing machines in the next few decades.
 

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Get a Haynes manual, and do a fuel pressure test, make sure it is within specs.
Check your TPS voltage SLOWLY through the range to ensure it doesn't drop out mid-way
Ensure you have good spark on all cylinders, and that your timing is correct
Ensure your fuel pump relay, and EEC relay is good.
Inspect all fuel pump, and EEC wiring (especially grounds)
Replace fuel filter (probably needs it anyways)
Pull codes again, this time follow the procedure correctly, 3 out of the 4 codes you listed were because you didn't correctly do the KOER test (Hit the gas and let off, some models- turn wheel left and right, press and release OD button, press and release brake)

These are just some ideas, some you've done already, I had a hay day trying to track mine down. Ended up being the EEC.

Here's a good guide to run through, even though you are getting codes, it wouldn't hurt to check these areas:

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=44


If all else fails it's probably your EEC.

Here's my thread, sounds similar:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123227

Good luck, and stop throwing parts at it, it doesn't help you learn how to fix it at all. (Even though I have been guilty of the same in the past)

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
alex,

thanks for the great input, i forgot to mention that the shop i took it to did the fuel pressure test, and they checked the timing, both checked out good (of course, they also said the EEC relay was my problem) and i reciently replaced wires and plugs. i was going to replace the rotor and distribuitor cap soon anyway, truck has 129xxx miles and rotor and cap are part of the tune-up it could use.

after reading your thread, it sounds like i need to turn my focus to the EEC, and i guess the best way to check it is to replace it and see what it does? i re did the self test after replacing the EGR and it still says the EGR is not opening, (yes i reset the CEL) so i guess the sensor is bad... my other bronco had a bad EGR when i bought it, so i replaced this one knowing it might not be the problem, but now i dont have to worry about it later.

the truck has been running well lately, but like alex said there is no way to be sure until its driven for awhile. called my auto parts store, said its $80 if that is the problem. i can cash that out tomorow after i pay rent. is it difficult to replace the EEC? its located behind driver kick panel right? of all the things ive tried, this sounds like it makes the most sense...

my 1970 chevy C/10 doesent have eec's and computers... tracking down a problem on that is so much easier!


thanks again alex! your right about throwing parts at it, but they are all normal wear parts, and i plan on keeping this truck for a long time as one of my drivers, so replacing these parts on an older truck makes me feel better about driving long distance anyway... but it can be expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
im pretty sure the idle air control (idle speed control) was the problem. one of the above parts fixed it.
 
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