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Fuel Rail Removal

3655 Views 5 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  miesk5
Hey guys, I'm pulling my motor out so I can replace the leaking rear main seal and decided that while I was at it, a partial motor disassembly for the purpose of media blasting and coating some engine parts couldn't hurt. I have the upper intake manifold and throttle body off, but I'm having issues removing the fuel rail from the injectors. Any advice or tricks on how to do this without damaging any components? Thanks, Tim...
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just keep pulling, it will eventually come loose. once you have the bolts from the brackets removed there is nothing holding it on but the o-rings on the injectors and they can be stubborn.
just keep pulling, it will eventually come loose. once you have the bolts from the brackets removed there is nothing holding it on but the o-rings on the injectors and they can be stubborn.
Thanks jermil01. About 5 minutes after I posted that I got pissed off, gave it several of those "f-you" yanks and it came off. Looks like one of the metal cups on the injector nozzles (where it mates to the mounting surface in the intake manifold) is chipped. I was going to replace those with some better injectors anyway.
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eBay has reman sets of 8 EV6 19# 4-hole injectors for the 96-99 Explorer for ~$100 or less. That's what was suggested to me by the nice folks here and they worked perfectly. I think there are also rebuild kits out there if you want to do it yourself.


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eBay has reman sets of 8 EV6 19# 4-hole injectors for the 96-99 Explorer for ~$100 or less. That's what was suggested to me by the nice folks here and they worked perfectly. I think there are also rebuild kits out there if you want to do it yourself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For the bronco ii? My fuel rail is completely shot and need a new one
Yo,
For posterity, we used
"Fuel Rail Disconnects
You must buy or borrow disconnect tools to disassemble the fuel rails. These are sold as disconnects for Ford fuel and AC fittings in most stores. There are two different styles to this tool. The cheaper version is shown in the first photo below. They are one-piece design. The more expensive version is a two-piece design, it springs open and closed. Both versions work very well. Here are a few different views of these fittings to ad your in there removal.

Here is a visual explanation on the removal of these fittings. I have found that you have to twist while pushing the disconnect tool into the cage. This helps ensure the spring spreads over the female fitting. Once the spring is spread over the female fitting, you have to pull the two ends apart. They are relatively durable fittings so don’t be afraid to use some force to help the O-rings slide. Remember these are sealed to over 100PSI and they have been connected for how long?


b.y absent member Fireguy50 (Ryan M)
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