[Lt Muddbutt]

Okay, I'm having an issue that I think it's finally time to address. My fuel gauge isn't working properly. For the best part, it won't backwards, but around 1/2 tank ends up be empty. I just be happy with that normally, but it's not always 1/2 tank. The truck is an 89, but it's changed to carb setup. I want to look at the sending unit, but I dunno wtf I need to be checking for. If I've got it right, the 89 had an in tank pump, and a return line going back to the tank, well I have that... But it has a manual, motor mounted pump, not sure if there's still an electric pump in there, but I sure hope not. I don't know what they did with the return line, because it's hooked up to the sending unit, but there's only one line going to the pump. I'd love to just pull the return line and run an 84 sending unit, but the harness and cluster I believe are still for an 89... I dunno wtf I should do, getting likely 4mpg and have no idea how much gas is in the tank.

 

[JKossarides]

Most here will say test the dash gas guage using a multimeter and if you're lucky maybe that's the issue..... not as difficult to replace...

Well usually the fuel pump/sender unit is inside the gas tank and the only to ways to access it are
A. cut an access panel in the cargo bay floor directly over the tank and test back probing/fix/replace it from there.

B. drain and drop the gas tank entirely to test back probing/fix/replace.

If it's the original sender unit more then likely it's time for new one...O'Reillys offers an Airtex fuel pump sender assembly Part # E2141S at $101.99 so maybe check around for prices if you can do better OR $pring for a Motorcraft or high quality brand so it lasts....lol lol

Additional help:
www.broncolinks.com



Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[Lt Muddbutt]

Most here will say test the dash gas guage using a multimeter and if you're lucky maybe that's the issue..... not as difficult to replace...

Well usually the fuel pump/sender unit is inside the gas tank and the only to ways to access it are
A. cut an access panel in the cargo bay floor directly over the tank and test back probing/fix/replace it from there.

B. drain and drop the gas tank entirely to test back probing/fix/replace.

If it's the original sender unit more then likely it's time for new one...O'Reillys offers an Airtex fuel pump sender assembly Part # E2141S at $101.99 so maybe check around for prices if you can do better OR $pring for a Motorcraft or high quality brand so it lasts....lol lol

Additional help:
www.broncolinks.com



Good Luck ~ :thumbup

But I'm carbed now... so should I really be replacing it with an assembly with a pump on it? I do have the motor mounted pump...

 

[JKossarides]

OK my BAD....lol lol....if you're carbed then it's probably just a sending/sock unit with a wire lead for the dash guage and usually with carbs the forward mechanical fuel pump has a rubber diaphragm inside, centrifical force because the arm on the fuel pump goes in/against the crankshaft to lift/pump constantly as it turns. You can still test the dash guage for voltage, carbed or EFI...lol lol

EFI's have the electric fuel pump/sender unit and a forward electric fuel pump on the drivers side frame rail, around the seat area.....my BKO also has 2 fuel filters, one in a fuel "reservoir" mounted on the drivers frame rail under the transfer case skid plate, wonderfull location.....lol lol...containing a hocky puck style filter with O ring where the filter has a hole in the center going face up. It's made of black plastic similar to a jar and lid where the botton/bowl unscrews from a spring loaded pressurized cap/lid, stems and small O rings that's mounted on the frame with bolts and inline/return fuel lines. It was designed to keep the reservoir full of fuel at cornering, up/down hill and extreme Off Road excursions to prevent starvation to the forward fuel pump etc. The forward fuel pump has a round "canister" style filter held in place with 2 little jagged safety U clips to hold the fuel lines together.


Good Luck ~ :thumbup