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Choose your favorite Fullsize Bronco of 2019!!!

  • HCodi

    Votes: 8 14.8%
  • antonio

    Votes: 5 9.3%
  • AbandonedBronco

    Votes: 9 16.7%
  • d_rock

    Votes: 15 27.8%
  • MS88Bronc

    Votes: 17 31.5%

  • Total voters
  • Poll closed .
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1 - 20 of 127 Posts

2,836 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Welcome to FULLSIZE BRONCO OF THE YEAR for 2019 !!!

This year’s winning Bronco Owner/Member will receive:


(*** Winners may accept or gift-away this prize, as they see fit.)

(*** Special "Thanks!" to FSB Lifetime Member Quader1.)

(*** Disclaimer: Bronco Driver Magazine write-up display & 1 yr. subscription offered by Bronco Driver Magazine to our winning members and are handled by the staff of Bronco Driver Magazine. FullsizeBronco.com's staff and ownership have no control or responsibility in attaining this prize, beyond our sincere apologies for any delays or hassles experienced in the past or future. 1 yr. subscription contingent on successful submission/acceptance of owner/winners detail written article, complete with multiple high resolutions pictures.)

This year’s winning Bronco will also be displayed on the F.O.T.Y. 2020 FSB Forum Theme/Banner & Home Page!!!

Your chosen contestants for FSB's FULLSIZE BRONCO OF THE YEAR for 2019:









So let’s get this Awesome show rolling folks!!!!
:popc1: :popc1: :popc1: :popc1: :popc1: :popc1:

Want to chat with one of the CONTESTANTS on an upgrade or anything else ?

Post up here: Chat with the CONTESTANTS

This is going to be a GOOD ONE !!! :chili: ibtl

Let the games begin!!!:duel

*** This poll will automatically close on Dec. 16th, 2019. F.O.T.Y. Contestants & Members, please remember that you have all agreed to FOLLOW the: RULES FOR F.O.T.M./F.O.T.Y.
We will not tolerate abuse of this contest, our rules or your fellow contestants. Make no mistake, you can & will be disqualified!!!
Thank you & Have a nice day.

2,836 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
By the way, I was able to hide the votes so I'm not sure how this will work ... maybe it will reveal at the end ? or maybe I have to edit it to show results ? IDK I was barely able to figure out how to do it at all but we shall see; !!!!!!!!

Super Moderator
23,650 Posts
By the way, I was able to hide the votes so I'm not sure how this will work ... maybe it will reveal at the end ? or maybe I have to edit it to show results ? IDK I was barely able to figure out how to do it at all but we shall see; !!!!!!!!
Yo Fred,
I can see that one vote has been cast.

Super Moderator
23,650 Posts
I can the the member voted for.
Maybe you can vote for one and then see if you can see what I can.

2,836 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I can the the member voted for.
Maybe you can vote for one and then see if you can see what I can.
Well I guess it doesn't work like I thought ... you have to vote to see the results .. I reset the votes to start over so if you voted you will have to re-vote ..

when I voted I could see the results oh well lol

Premium Member
1,543 Posts
Some mighty fine rigs! Give us a good show gentlemen!

The Tennessee Warden
2,681 Posts
OK guys, I guess I will get this train rollin'. First of all, I want to say thanks to @youngDUMP for the nod back in August and for all that voted for me in September - you guys are awesome. Also a thank you has to go out to @Quader1 for all he does for FSB and the FOTM/FOTY competitions! It is quite an honor to be competing for FOTY among four other awesome Broncos. Good luck to you all! Now, let's try and trudge our way through this new format of our forum and see if we can get this done. I need my :coffee: for this...

OK -

I've been a lifelong Ford driver - all the way from my first car in high school, a 1986 Ford Escort, to my current family truckster, a 2017 Ford Explorer - my first build, a 1966 Mustang to my current build, a 1996 Bronco. But my Bronco story doesn't start at my current '96; it starts with a white '88 XLT that I got back in 2016. I'll give you the quick story on that one: bought it for $2700, dropped about $5000 more into it over a year and a half, sold it in early 2018 for $4000. It's a familiar story to many I'm sure. Here's a before/after of that one.

But, some things came up, and family always comes first, so I had to let it go. So, my job was taking a crap, some new opportunities presented themselves, and I ended up moving the family to SE Michigan for a new jobs for myself and the wife. We found a rental house and moved in until we figured out where we wanted to live long term. A few months pass and got a few bucks in the bank - the search for another Bronco started! There were lots of options for reasonable prices, a few that were very spendy (>$10,000), but my budget was placing me firmly into a rusted out Bronco. Finally, I found one that was rust free from Tennessee, lifted, with lots of upgraded parts for a decent price. I contacted the owner and went to see it. I drove it...it seemed a little sluggish, but I figured best case it needed a tune up and timing adjusted - worst case it needed a fuel pump and/or injectors or something. None of those things really bothered me. So, we agreed on a price, and I shook his hand. I had to come back with the money later since my bank doesn't have any brick-and-mortar branches in MI. I ordered a cashier's check and it comes next day, and I go pick up my new rig!

Here she was...

This 1996 XL model was a former State of Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency truck that spent most of its 166000 mile life in Knoxville area...so no rust to speak of, just a little surface stuff here and there underneath. It has the 5.8 with MAF, the E4OD/BW 1356 combo, 4.56 gears with LS in the 8.8 and Detroit Locker in the D44 TTB. It had custom front and rear off-road bumpers, rear swing-out spare carrier, winch mount spot on the front bumper, recessed lights in both bumpers, custom one-off sliders/side steps, rear disc brake conversion, 5.5" JBG Superflex (Deaver) lift, and 35" GY MT/R tires.

So I had a great starting point with this Bronco, and it did need some work, but it looked like it didn't need the "big stuff" so that made it a good deal for me. Got it home and parked in the driveway. (y)

(Jeez the selection of smileys seriously sux!)

Good luck everyone!

Premium Member
403 Posts
Hey guys,
I'm stoked to be facing off against such an awesome group of Broncos! Of course I followed each of your wins, and am looking forward to hearing your stories again, as well as anything you may have done since. Big thanks to @tkrone8970 for the July nomination, and those who voted for me! For those who missed it, a bit about myself:
  • Name is Derek
  • 27-year-old west-coast Canadian, with a passion for automotive design, fabrication, and racing
  • Parents have both daily-driven 4x4s my entire life
  • I've had my Bronco for over 8 years now
My '78 Bronco was my first Ford, though there has always been Fords in my family... F-series, Explorer, Super Duty, Escape. Most of our "other brand" vehicles have been 4x4s. Since getting my Bronco, I've also had a couple of '94 F-150s as well as another 2nd gen Bronco, and they influenced my build, but we'll get to that a bit later.

I first spotted my Bronco on an online local classifieds ad, and lucked out since my dad worked with the guy who was selling it. Short story short, we made the deal and I drove it home the next day. Right off the get-go, I was just a university kid with a cool project truck. Now, this machine has become an important part of my life:
  • Daily driver
  • Transport for camping, hiking, mountain biking, paddle boarding, rock climbing, etc
  • Exploring BC's backroads and awesome backcountry
  • Playing around off-road and learning how to 'wheel

78 Bronco, new truck (13).jpg

My early pictures were pretty grainy (blaming old phones for this), so bear with me... they get better. Some details:
  • Originally from California; no rust. The PO bought it off the guy who brought it up to Canada.
  • 351M engine, C6 automatic, NP205 transfer case, 3.50 gears in the axles
  • Approximately 80,000 mi on the odometer, but I would bet its been over 100,000 at least once based on the condition of shocks and bushings
  • Ranger XLT trim package
  • Bench seats front and back
  • Bare metal floor
  • Non-A/C
  • Single shocks up front
  • Anti sway bar in the front, but not in the back
  • 33 inch mud terrain tires (low on tread)
  • Pretty much bone stock, with an aftermarket sunroof cut into the cab
The PO had added painted this on the tailgate, as a tribute to its California roots, but I cannot confirm that it was specifically from Santa Monica. I thought it looked cool, so I left it on.


The Tennessee Warden
2,681 Posts
So the guy I bought this rig from used it as a crawler mostly, and in his six years of ownership, only put about 6K miles on it. Also, when he would wheel it, he did it with the top off, so the cargo area was filthy. The bedside panels and rear cargo area lining were missing, but he did give me all of the trim pieces (except for the small one at the top center by the dome light). He also gave me a cardboard box full of parts - camber bushings, spindle socket, wheel bearings, spare lockouts, seat belts, and other stuff. So first on my list was to clean everything up and see what I really have here. One of my boys wanted to help out with "his" shop vac.

If you have ever driven a Bronco with mud terrains on it while missing the rear cargo lining/carpet with nothing on the inner fenders knows how loud it is, so I really wanted to get some carpet and bedside panels for not only the sound deadening, but for looks. Carpet was easy enough, so I first started looking for bedside panels. Then I thought that instead of going with the same-old-same-old panels that everyone else has, maybe I could make some.......

Premium Member
403 Posts
The first thing I had to address on my Bronco was the fuel tank... the original ~25 gal tank was rusted out to the point of leaking. Fortunately, the PO included a brand-new-still-in-the-box 33 gal tank. I ordered up the correct sending unit to work with it, and made the swap. To handle the extra height of the new tank, new lower straps were quickly made from 2" wide steel flat bar, and isolated from the tank using pieces of old 3" webbing. I took this opportunity to replace the rubber filler hose as well, which was showing its age.

Shortly after, I was daily driving the Bronco to my summer job, and it got to spend a few weeks topless!

I tried out a large locking toolbox in the back for a couple days, in place of the rear seat, but it didn't really look right. At the time I liked the idea of getting a half cab kit, but they weren't being produced. The idea still appeals to me, but I like the utility of the rear seat too much to give it up.

Pulling the seats and rear side panels revealed a pristine floor (y) which I promptly coated with rattle can primer to keep the elements at bay. While air hosing things out, I got a few face-fulls of fine, powdery sand (California dunes I suppose). Good thing for eye protection!

Everything on the bottom side was completely caked in some sticky, oily, muddy mess. It has been mostly dealt with, but even after all these years there are still a few spots to finish cleaning and painting under there.

Some early additions included:
  • Switching out my 33" mud terrains for 32" BFG KO tires
  • A pair of Hella 500 lights on the front bumper
  • Cab markers, spaced identically to my dad's Super Duty

To wrap up for today, here's my family's 4x4 collection at the time:

Premium Member
403 Posts
That first summer the Bronco saw some friends and I on a trip to Tofino for surfing and camping. We had 5 surfboards on the roof, suspended between a gutter-mount rack over the cab and the rear window deflector in the back. Bouncing along the narrow winding Pacific Rim Highway eventually pulled the deflector mounting brackets right out of the shell, which called for some body filler to plug the holes. The rest of the trip was awesome though: if you like waves, then you should check it out some time!

Back to school
Fall 2011. I was on my way to class one morning, when suddenly the engine sputtered and died, taking my power brakes and steering with it, in the middle of traffic. I wrestled the Bronco to the side of the road, and got it to start again a couple of times for short bursts, just enough to get it into a parking lot. The problem ended up being a clogged fuel filter on the carburetor, but when that was replaced, the restored pressure blew out the seals leaking fuel all over the top end. My dad helped my haul it home, and I replaced the carb. With little experience in tuning, I spent the next couple nights fiddling with engine timing and dialing the new carb in. Some time around here I inherited the rear shocks from my dad's 04 F350, since he was upgrading, and his old ones were in better shape than what I had. They were a direct bolt-in.

For the next couple years it was a balancing act between going to class (mech eng), work (pumping gas), work terms (various tech companies), and Formula SAE. The Bronco was pretty much just a badass daily driver for me, and good to haul half the race team to the track for testing. It was a bit of a slug off the line, but tons of power from 60-80kph. Ultimately, I got my butt financially kicked and had to park the Bronco. $60/week in fuel to get to the bus stop to go to school just wasn't working out for me.

The road to better mileage...
I missed driving... my Bronco, and with a standard trans. So I started looking around for an inexpensive way to get a more modern, fuel injected motor and the required pieces to make it run. The first potential donor I found was a 1994 F-150 XL 4x4 supercab pickup with 5.0L V8 and M5OD trans, dual tanks, (working) A/C, cruise, air bags, and a very rotten body with rocker panels made of spray foam... It had been around the block for sure, but I got it for $400 and only needed to replace the clutch and slave ($300). Not a trivial job, but it put me in a position to drive around and test out my prospective powertrain before swapping into the Bronco. Driving that truck around for a year didn't impress me, and revealed some electrical issues, so I ended up selling it for about $700. I still wish I had pulled some of the good parts off of it first. Though it was a mess of machine, it was fun to drive that beater, and it was great for getting Bronco parts. The beater got to wear my BFGs off of the Bronco while I drove it around.

Just before I sold that truck I found another 1994 F-150 Xl 4x4, this time a single cab with 4.9L, M5OD, and no noteworthy options. This one set me back $400 as well, but for an extra $50 I scored a ZF 5 speed that happened to be sitting in the truck's box! This was my glorious moment of owning three 4x4s at once. It will be some years before I'm able to pull that off again. Also at this point, I had the most 4x4s in the family. My parents weren't thrilled with how many vehicles I had taking up space in the yard.
Ford F-150. 1994, Black 6.jpg

The (newer to me) '94 was too incomplete to get roadworthy and shake down for a few months, and the trans was sloppy to the point of needing to be held in gear. But I did hear the motor run before deciding that I want to go ahead with it, and the trans didn't matter because of the ZF I now had to play with. So with the 5.0L truck up for sale, and the 4.9L truck stripped down to scrap metal, I drove the Bronco into the shop to yank out that big old 351M. I gave the throttle one last mash to remember the old motor by. Pulling that motor left a big hole...

A closer look at the factory engine perches, which are specific to the 351M/400M... Perches for a 300ci are not easy to find around here, so I'll show you tomorrow what I came up with.

Premium Member
403 Posts
Powerplant transplant
Once I got the C6 and NP205 removed, I had space to get the 4.9 and ZF into place and start taking measurements for my engine perches and trans crossmember. I cleared out all the wires and hoses under the hood to give plenty of space to solve the transplant. Here's the ZF with the small block bellhousing on the floor to the left of the Bronco, with the old C6 behind it.

I had no effort into the motor or trans at this point beside pressure washing; didn't even install the clutch or motor plate, just bolted them together for a fit check. I removed the '94 engine mounts from the 4.9L and replaced them with new mounts for a 70's 300ci. Since I was unable to find perches for the frame to fit these mounts, I decided to make my own. I bolted the mounts to the motor, positioned the 4.9L/ZF as low and far back as possible, gave it a slight tilt down in the rear for drive angle, and took a bunch of measurements for the perches. The big challenge here was to get clearance between the new trans and the floor, without cutting into said floor. The necessary clearance came in the form of hockey pucks, 3 at each body mount, allowing the BW1356 t-case from the donor to clear a structural member under the floor. The body lift would be replaced later by a proper kit.

CAD modelling allowed me to refine the design of the perches, and I aimed for them to look like factory parts. I had the parts waterjet from 1/8" cold rolled steel, the bent the up using a big old brake mounted to the rear bumper of the 5.0L pickup before it sold.

Being on a university FSAE team has many benefits, like access to a TIG welder. That's how I stuck the metal together. Before putting the engine in for good, I gave the front end of the frame a healthy does of POR-15.

The Tennessee Warden
2,681 Posts
So, I left off with the thought that maybe I could build some bedside panels for the cargo area and rear passenger area. The original panels were the standard XL panels (that I never had) that are basically a light pressboard with perforations for the rear speakers, bolt-on armrests, and an ash tray on each side. I was thinking that I would make cargo pockets in the back, but then decided I would upholster some wood with the beige/green theme in the truck already. So the first step in this was to get the basic shape of the panels. I didn't have the old panels, like I mentioned, so I had to make templates from cardboard first:

Then I used this template to make measurements and draw up a diagram - I like diagrams - makes it easy for a quick reference when I need it. You can see my initial thoughts on a cargo pocket, which ended up getting scrapped.

So then I used these measurements and template to make up the covering for the wood panel. I wanted something unique - I could have much more easily just made it all beige or all green, but again, I wanted unique. So, I went with beige with green accents - and a much more difficult sewing adventure!

So then it was time to use my template again to cut the wood for the panels - I used what is called "hardboard" I think, which is basically pegboard without the holes. It was 3/16" I think.

The other side was a mirror image.

They fit almost perfectly.

Then I went to the local JoAnn fabric store to pick up some upholstery foam, 1/2" I believe. I used spray adhesive to glue it to the hardboard and then a razor blade to trim the edges.

I then laid the panel down on the fabric, a "leather-grained" vinyl, and cut around it to leave enough to wrap around the edges. Then I wrapped it around and used spray adhesive and a staple gun to secure the fabric to the board.

Then, the moment of truth - I installed them into their new home and they turned out great! I still needed to install the armrests, speaker grilles that I still needed to buy, and the trim pieces where the bed meets the top. I also needed to get the right rear seat belt repaired, as it had been cut or damaged, but this was a good start. I also picked up some indoor/outdoor carpet from the Home Depot to lay down on the floor with some carpet padding to help with the sound deadening.

Things were turning out nicer then expected! I will eventually get some molded carpet for this truck, especially since covering the inner rear fenders would be very tricky without it being molded, but this will do nicely in the meantime.

Premium Member
403 Posts
Powerplant transplant (cont'd)
While welding up the engine perches, I had a few things off for powder coating:

I also cleaned up the oil pan, but chose to paint that one instead. With all the covers off, I gave the engine as best an inspection as I could, without diving into a complete overhaul. Once everything was cleaned up, and I was satisfied that the motor did not have any glaring issues, I re-sealed it and prepared for install. The trans received a new clutch, concentric slave, and clutch line (used a stock replacement line intended for a '94), but the clutch master got re-used.

As you saw earlier from my motor test fit, the ZF was resting on the transmission crossmember, and lacking space for the t-case. To get the transmission just a little bit lower, I cut out the center section of the original crossmember and welded in a drop-out center section. Its made from DOM tubing with waterjet-cut 1/8" plates at the ends, and gussets on the end brackets to improve stiffness and eliminate snag points. Although it drops down further than the original crossmember, its still higher than the bottom of the radius arm brackets.

Finally, I welded on a DOM hoop to support the transmission via the original isolator block.

Up front, reassembly continued. I cleaned most of my engine parts and bolts by building an electrolysis tank, using:
  • A plastic 40 gallon drum
  • A battery charger as a power source, set to low current
  • An old car battery, as an electrical buffer to the power source
  • Old jumper cables
  • Scrap metal, as the sacrificial electrode (must not touch the part being cleaned!), shielded with old rubber hose which I perforated
  • Washing soda
  • A well-ventilated space
This is basically the opposite of a battery: I used electricity to drive an electrochemical reaction, which eats away at the metals in the tank, atoms at a time. The reaction produces hydrogen gas at one electrode, and oxygen at the other (we are ionizing H2O here), hence the ventilated space. The method works well and is eco-friendly I suppose... minus all the junk that comes off the parts being cleaned. There is a risk of something called "hydrogen embrittlement" for things like cast aluminum which are somewhat porous. If such parts are left in too long, the hydrogen bubbles work their way into the metal and increase susceptibility to fracture... My lower intake manifold suffered this fate, and I had to source another one at the junk yard, which I was more careful with. On a previous vehicle, I managed to clean an entire 22R engine block this way, which after a full rebuild ran like a top.

There is barely enough room for the big 4.9L between my firewall and the '76 Camper Special radiator I'm using: about 1/2" or so between fan and rad, and same between the #6 intake runner and firewall.

Premium Member
403 Posts
Powerplant transplant (cont'd)
Next up, I got the upper intake manifold in place and started laying out the wiring harness from the donor F150. Once I figured out how I needed to re-shape the harness, I removed all of the old wrap on the wiring, made my adjustments, and re-wrapped the harness using non-adhesive vinyl tape, made specifically for wrapping wiring harnesses. The tape is very easy to use, and results look much like factory wiring; I highly recommend it. The cab wiring got the same treatment.

This wiring explosion had my parents wondering If I would ever get the thing running again. I wanted to keep as much of the '78 look inside as possible, so I had to swap connectors for all of the switches. Not everything ported over easily, and I kept a few original Bronco circtuits:
  • The '78 ignition switch has 1 less circuit than the '94, so a relay was used to make the extra connection
  • The '94 light switch was a direct bolt-in, having 1 extra output for daytime running lights IIRC
  • Eliminated the "flash to pass" and kept the high beam switch on the floor
  • Kept the original wiper controls (already has intermittent)
  • Kept the original heater blower circuit, but left provisions for upgrading to the newer circuit later (hopefully lower current draw from a more modern motor)
  • Kept the original rear window circuit, using a fender mounted circuit breaker for power
  • Started design of a custom instrument cluster... more on this later
  • Mounted the PCM through the firewall on the driver side

My original '78 steering pump went back in, and bolted right up to the bracket on the engine. The '94 pump was probably in better condition, but I wasn't ready to get into making a custom hose, or having one made. The '78 pressure hose barely made the stretch, and required a slight bend to provide some slack for engine shake.

The original air injection system on the 4.9L was rusted out, so I got some new parts direct from the manufacturer, to keep things running like stock. They were not easy to order from, but I think I saved a bit on shipping.

Because of the rad that I'm using, I had to get creative with the coolant plumbing. At this particular time, I was back in class and didn't have access to a lathe to make couplings with... I found a shop in California specializing in Jaguars that makes these nice aluminum couplers for a very reasonable price. For around $20-25 CAD I got 3 of them, including shipping. Material cost up here would been over $15, so not too bad. This allowed me to peice together several off-the-shelf hoses.

Most of the engine and wiring all buttoned up, and many of the external engine parts replaced:
  • Rotor and cap on the distributor
  • Spark plugs and wires
  • EGR valve and EVP sensor
  • Water pump
  • Thermostat
  • Starter
  • Fuel pressure regulator
  • Lots other odds and ends

The BW1356 that I had to work with, being from a truck not a Bronco, had the slip yoke rear output on it... this adds length and hurts the rear drive angle with such a short wheelbase. I found someone who was selling an M5OD with BW1345 attached to it, presumably out of an 87-91 or so pickup. I only wanted the BW1345, but he was unable to separate the case from the trans, so I traded him the M5OD that I had plus a bit of cash and took the setup off his hands. Back at my parents' place, I took my time and managed to separate the cases without damage, and then proceeded to rebuild the BW1345... Everything appeared to be in good shape, so it just got new seals and bearings.

The Tennessee Warden
2,681 Posts
So on my way driving this Bronco home (and during the test drive) I notice that the steering wheel isn't lined up correctly - driving straight it was off center to about the 10 o'clock position. It's not really a huge deal....except when you go to hit your left turn signal and it won't click down and stay down! Plus, it disengages at the wrong time when you straighten the wheel slightly - overall, just annoying. So I drive it down to the local Belle Tire for an alignment - they say they can't align it because they did a wheel wobble test and it has a bad wheel bearing on the front passenger side. Well, I guess that explains some of those parts in the PO's "parts box."

At this time I wasn't very familiar with the inner workings of the Bronco hub and front axle, so I enlisted the help of fellow FSBer @sackman9975, who now only lived about 15 minutes from me. We pull the entire front passenger side apart from the knuckle out. The bearings were exploded, the rotor’s ABS tone ring was destroyed from rubbing the ABS sensor which was also ground down, the Warn lockout's guts were broken, and the spindle didn't look great either.

Looking through the parts box I had that the PO gave me, there was a spare Warn lockout (someone knew something), some Timken wheel bearings, and a grease seal - pretty much what I needed to do the passenger side wheel bearings here. We get all the old stuff off and pack and replace the bearings. We had a little bit of a hard time getting it back on all the way, so we suspected something was amiss, but finished it up anyway. Then we took it for a 20 minute drive. Upon feeling the hub, it was burning hot - something was wrong. We then went to take it all back off again and it was so tight, we couldn't get the Warn lockout off. So we had to get creative.

So we took it all back apart again and the grease seal was destroyed. This is when we learned that the 96 grease seal is a two piece seal and the one-piece I had was for a 95 (and others). So Scott found a 95 spindle and 95 rotor in his garage (that still had a good seal on it - thanks Scott!) and we replaced mine with these. After this, all was good in the world again. I brought it back to the shop and got it aligned with a one year warranty - after a $30 off coupon, I only spent $75 or so after tax!

We also checked the ignition timing and it was sitting at 4° ATDC! No wonder it was sluggish! We set it to 10° BTDC and it was like a new truck.

Premium Member
403 Posts
Powerplant transplant (cont'd)
So there's still a few loose ends to complete with the swap... I didn't necessarily wait until to end to do these.
  • Electric fuel pump
  • Clutch master cylinder
  • Instrument cluster
  • Driveshafts
For the fuel pump, I ordered a new tank and pump for a '92-'96 Bronco, which has the same external dimensions as the '78 tank, making it a direct bolt in. The donor F150 fuel lines were not the ideal shape and length, but close enough so I made them work, and mounted the fuel filter on the inside of the driver side frame rail, right by the transfer case. Here is the old tank removed. Also got the proper body lift installed, and would soon lift the rear bumper to match.

I don't have any early pictures of my clutch pedal setup, so you'll have to wait until I show my next upgrade in that region. Basically, I welded the post that the clutch rod attaches to onto the clutch pedal from a 70's F250 (my Bronco was automatic before) and replaced my brake pedal pivot bolt with that pedal. This worked because the F250 clutch pedal and Bronco brake pedal use the same mounting location on the pedal assembly frame; the F250 brake pedal is longer, and mounts closer to the firewall. I was sceptical about putting both pedals on the same pivot at first, but later found out that the manual trans Broncos were done this way anyhow. My clutch master got mounted between the brake booster and the inner fender, and I made a custom pushrod to avoid the well-known troubles with the original plastic bushing one.


My new instrument cluster was a long way still from being done, so I zip-tied the '94 cluster in place for a wile. No speed sensor mounted yet, so that speedo is just for show. The original cluster did not have a tach (as far as I know, none of the 70's Broncos or trucks did), and the tach cluster that came with my donor truck was foolishly swapped into and forgotten in my 5.0L beater truck when I was driving it, and then I sold it. Rather than use the plastic mount that came with a column mount tach I got, I machined a new shroud for my steering column with an integrated mounting point.
78 Bronco, 4.9L engine swap (170).jpg

My driveshaft configuration right now is a bit odd... My original rear shaft (double cardan) was shortened to become my new front shaft. The front shaft from the donor (non-double cardan, fixed yoke ends) was shortened to become the rear shaft. Due to the pinion angle of my 9" rear, this makes a less than ideal rear driveline, but would work for now. Prior to having the shafts shortened and balanced by a local shop, I cleaned and painted them, and replaced all the joints.

By the time I got done with this swap, I was graduating from university (end of summer 2016). So 5 years into ownership of my Bronco, and it really hasn't spent a lot of time driving... But to complete an engine swap in only a few years, while studying engineering... I feel good about that. I was stoked to get it on the road again!

Shortly after, it crossed the water with me from my parents' place on Vancouver Island to the mainland, where I landed a pretty sweet job (had done a couple work terms there). With machine shop access (y)
We had a pretty good dump of snow that winter... usually its pretty mild around here, and only last a day or so. This year, and the next, it was more like a couple months of mess, where half the city keeps bald summer tires on all year. I was brushing snow of the Bronco a couple times a day, to keep it from getting out of hand.
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