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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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FWIW, 15% off and free shipping over $25 through the 3rd with code LABORDAY

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com
Danke schön. I picked one up with a nipple on it for my truck and used that code. Saved just under $5 and still got the free shipping as it was still just over $25. Spendy little valve, but I'll be glad to not have oil all over everything the next time I do a change. My other vehicles are fine. :thumbup
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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I opted to have them send me a 3ft hose with the valve. I don't have anything on hand and having it show up in the mail with everything else is just convenient, so why not. I have some spare vac line plugs I can use to cap it off with.

From the tip of the threads to the tip of the nip it measures 2 1/16" long. From the bottom of the threads to the tip 'o the nip it measures 1 9/16" long, which is the amount it'll hang outside of the oil pan. My truck's oil drain plug is on the very rear of the oil pan and faces at about a 45 degree angle towards the ground. I think it will work well for this particular application.

Also, the position the valve lever is in in my pics is the open position. You have to swing it to the side and then it spring loads down into the closed position. So to open it up you have to remove the black cap that goes over it, lift it up and push it to the side at the same time.



 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter #23
Hey @Doosenberry ... That's awesome. Thanks for updating with your purchase. A bit bigger then I thought it would be, but not too big. Can i ask how much the whole package with the tubing cost? The tubing is for running to your oil collection pan, right? Will you plz post a pic after u install it?
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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Hey @Doosenberry ... That's awesome. Thanks for updating with your purchase. A bit bigger then I thought it would be, but not too big. Can i ask how much the whole package with the tubing cost? The tubing is for running to your oil collection pan, right? Will you plz post a pic after u install it?
If I got one without a nipple it'd be nearly a half inch shorter. You can get one that just has a plug on it with a spot for an allen wrench to fit in it. You'd unscrew the plug with the allen wrench, then pop the valve open with the lever. I'm not sure how much of a benefit that really is as you're already removing a plug when you take out the factory plug. Yeah, you can control when the oil comes out a little more, but... meh.

I chose the long nipple so I could just use a hose. Yes, the clear hose is so I can hook that up to the nipple, run the hose into my oil drain pan, and then pop the lever open and have everything run straight into the pan and not get it all over my cross member, steering, and potentially on the street once it starts flying everywhere as that's where I do my changes. Then I can close the valve, remove the hose, and put a pastey on the nipple. That's the plan anyway.

I'll take a pic of it on my truck once I change the oil. That'll probably be sometime later next week as I have some more important things going on right now unfortunately.


Edit: Forgot to mention the price. With the 15% off coupon and adding the 3ft hose it was $27.16 out the door.
 

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If I got one without a nipple it'd be nearly a half inch shorter. You can get one that just has a plug on it with a spot for an allen wrench to fit in it. You'd unscrew the plug with the allen wrench, then pop the valve open with the lever. I'm not sure how much of a benefit that really is as you're already removing a plug when you take out the factory plug. Yeah, you can control when the oil comes out a little more, but... meh

Actually that allen wrench plug holds the ball valve in. The base model is basically nippleless. Throw the lever and it drains - no tools required. It's actually what I originally bought.

Notice I said originally? Recall my caution about knowing your thread pitch? Sure enough the new motor came with a different size thread on the oil pan than what I already had!

Just ordered a short nipple version. I'm going to try the hose this time and see how it works.

Now if could just figure out how NOT to drop the oil filter when I'm spinning it off, I'll be set. :brownbag
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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Actually that allen wrench plug holds the ball valve in. The base model is basically nippleless. Throw the lever and it drains - no tools required. It's actually what I originally bought.

Notice I said originally? Recall my caution about knowing your thread pitch? Sure enough the new motor came with a different size thread on the oil pan than what I already had!

Just ordered a short nipple version. I'm going to try the hose this time and see how it works.

Now if could just figure out how NOT to drop the oil filter when I'm spinning it off, I'll be set. :brownbag
So is the "plug" just hollow and in the shape of an allen then with the valve being the only thing keeping the oil pan's insides from becoming outsides? I'm not sure why I thought it was fully plugged and required removal. I guess I saw this pic on their site and figured it was sealed shut. There's no pic of it showing the inside.





Anyway, good to know! If I ever added one to my Bronco it'd be that one, but my Bronco has a nice straight, unobstructed path coming down from the oil pan and it doesn't cause any issues for me currently. :thumbup


 

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So is the "plug" just hollow and in the shape of an allen then with the valve being the only thing keeping the oil pan's insides from becoming outsides? I'm not sure why I thought it was fully plugged and required removal. I guess I saw this pic on their site and figured it was sealed shut. There's no pic of it showing the inside.




Yeah, I don't know why they don't make that clearer on their website...

What's worse than a cruddy cell pic? A cruddy cell phone pic taken with a flashlight!



Just realized taking that photo; because the plug comes out at a 45° angle, it's no lower than the bottom of the oil pan.

Still sticks out further than a bolt though.
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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Here's my update. I haven't used it yet, but it's installed. I also realized how nasty the underside of my truck is in the oil pan area (underside of the body is pretty clean) and that I have some fairly new bushings cracking out. Yay.


Here's the oil pan and factory drain plug.






Here's the oil hitting the steering linkage. This was a good 10-15 seconds into it, it was coming out harder when the plug was first pulled and looks closer to when you put a spoon upside down under your sink faucet. I know you've done that before.






Factory plug vs Fumoto







Installation instructions






Step 4 of the instructions says to use a crescent wrench on the body of the plug to torque it.






New plug installed. I'll now be able to run the drain hose straight into my oil drain pan and avoid any mess now.



 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter #30
That's awesome @Doosenberry :thumbup thank u for updating. Think the B.F.W. is a little over kill? Hubby says duel purpose tool... Wrench... Or hammer :histerica
 

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Yes, that pic was a joke. I found that wrench in the middle of the road a few years ago. No way to identify who it belonged to, so I stuck it with the rest of my tools. I've yet to find anything I've worked on that needed a wrench that big though. It has a 2" jaw when fully opened. I'm assuming it's an expensive wrench as it's an 18" Blackhawk. I'm sure the one I have is an old model, but Amazon has one listed for $113. If I was packing around tools that cost that much I'd be strapping them down.

https://www.amazon.com/Blackhawk-Proto-AW-1018-2-Adjustable-18-Inch/dp/B005YSZPP8
 

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Yes, that pic was a joke. I found that wrench in the middle of the road a few years ago. No way to identify who it belonged to, so I stuck it with the rest of my tools. I've yet to find anything I've worked on that needed a wrench that big though. It has a 2" jaw when fully opened. I'm assuming it's an expensive wrench as it's an 18" Blackhawk. I'm sure the one I have is an old model, but Amazon has one listed for $113. If I was packing around tools that cost that much I'd be strapping them down.

https://www.amazon.com/Blackhawk-Proto-AW-1018-2-Adjustable-18-Inch/dp/B005YSZPP8
I think all or most Blackhawk handtools are imported now. Blackhawk used to be really good stuff, if you ever see a vintage Blackhawk tool box from the 1950s especially a "Blackhawk Nugget" at a garage sale, don't hesitate, buy it and flip it on ebay for $300 and up!!!
 

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Step 4 of the instructions says to use a crescent wrench on the body of the plug to torque it.






Always use the right tool for the job! LOL
 

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The new to us '96 CTD came with one in place. 6BT's in that truck have their drains at the center of the sump. Which places it exactly where the rock that you drove over another rock to avoid will make first contact. :( I threw it out. I did wish that they made something like it for the oil filter on a \6 as changing those out results in significant rust-proofing of the steering linkage & lower suspension on that side.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Blackhawk is owned by Proto, and is their cheaper line. Like snap-on has bluepoint. Cant say if they are imported or not. Much of mAc tools are imported now, but from Taiwan. I had a micrometer and dial calipers from mAc and they were excellent quality, made in Taiwan.

Y'all have it too easy! Try a 2003 mustang, lowered an inch, with a DOHC under the hood. The pan drain isn't the bad part. It's getting to the filter with enough torque to loosen it. Then you have to pull it between the power steering and some other junk, all while oil is draining all over the engine crossmember, steering rack, and frame. Theres even a channel for oil to follow and drain off the crossmember! I used to just shove a couple red rags up there to catch most of it. My van has a drain channel too, but it's not as messy.

For those who want the ultimate in ease of oil changes, I have a recommendation.

Thread a steel 90° "street elbow" fitting into the pan drain bung. Then add this here Fumoto valve. That will keep vertical protrusion to an inch or so. Then, remove the oil filter and cooler puck if you have it. Purchase a dual remote oil filter kit and mount it on the passenger frame rail behind the front bumper a ways (like under the battery area). If you so choose, you can put a finned cooler in line after the filters. The filters spin on completely vertical, so oil never spills out of a cockeyed filter. And not more than a few drops come from the filter base. I say dual filters, because it guarantees good clean oil. I ran my 94 this way for years with 8000 mile oil changes every 6 months. Oil was still transparent when it came out. When I tore the engine down at 150,000 miles due to a cracked head, the bearings were in excellent shape. Not a single one had any copper showing through. The filters had these finned aluminum heat-sink covers on mine, but idk how much that helped cooling. If my 300 didnt have such an easy to access filter, I'd have done the remote filter thing already.


NOOBIE QUESTION lol
@cobrajoe what is the benefit to draining the oil when hot. I've done a lot of cold oil changes in the past. I figured if the oil is cold, its had as much possible time to all drain back to the pan.

Should you drain immediately after shutting the engine down, or wait say 5 minutes for some oil to drain back down?
 

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FWIW, i had one of them drain valves on my drag ranchero and i used to run a vacuum cap on the end of the outlet thingie just incase the valve lever got hit by a rock or something so the oil would'nt drain out.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter #37
For those who want the ultimate in ease of oil changes, I have a recommendation.

Thread a steel 90° "street elbow" fitting into the pan drain bung. Then add this here Fumoto valve. That will keep vertical protrusion to an inch or so. Then, remove the oil filter and cooler puck if you have it. Purchase a dual remote oil filter kit and mount it on the passenger frame rail behind the front bumper a ways (like under the battery area). If you so choose, you can put a finned cooler in line after the filters. The filters spin on completely vertical, so oil never spills out of a cockeyed filter. And not more than a few drops come from the filter base. I say dual filters, because it guarantees good clean oil. I ran my 94 this way for years with 8000 mile oil changes every 6 months. Oil was still transparent when it came out. When I tore the engine down at 150,000 miles due to a cracked head, the bearings were in excellent shape. Not a single one had any copper showing through. The filters had these finned aluminum heat-sink covers on mine, but idk how much that helped cooling. If my 300 didnt have such an easy to access filter, I'd have done the remote filter thing already
That sounds interesting... Got any pictures of this set up? I'm more of a visual learner...
 

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I was always taught to drain the oil when hot, especially with diesels. The theory behind it is that warm oil picks up more contaminants and keeps them in suspension while you drain it.
 

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I prefer to drain it warm, not hot. For several reasons; warm means that it has emulsified most if not all of the contaminants, warm means that most of it has drained back into the pan, warm means that it drains reasonably fast, and most importantly warm means that it won't burn me when inevitably splashes on me.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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That sounds interesting... Got any pictures of this set up? I'm more of a visual learner...
Nope, I never took many pics back then. It was a standard remote oil filter kit. A street elbow is a tight radius fitting, found in most hardware stores
 
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